Steering shaft is slipping

[KCk51974]

So after repairing the turn signal switch on my 1970 k5, no-tilt/automatic, the steering shaft keeps slipping out of place. Bearing is in place, but once steering wheel goes on it slips down. The steering wheel is cracked, but it was before also so don’t think that Is it. Any explanations? Is the lower bearing out of place maybe?
Thanks!

 

[ashman]

As I recall, the steering shaft should be held up against a bearing by the steering shaft. basically the steering shaft should be able to fall down the column somewhat, but when you tighten the steering wheel onto it, it pulls the shaft up hard against the bearing holding everything in place.

This is from memory, but I'd bet that you could find a nice exploded view that would show you what you have out of place. I agree, it's not the cracked steering wheel.

 

[KCk51974]

Thanks Ashman. I have looked at the exploded diagrams and think I have everything in place. The only other thing might be the horn cam, which I think goes below the steering wheel, but I doub that is it. Wheel also seems to plenty tight when I put it on.

 

[ashman]

Sorry, wish I could be more help. Sounds like you'll just have to take it apart again and see if you can find what you may have missed. Bad bearing maybe?

 

[KCk51974]

Thanks Ashman. I have looked at the exploded diagrams and think I have everything in place. The only other thing might be the horn cam, which I think goes below the steering wheel, but I doub that is it. Wheel also seems to plenty tight when I put it on.

Sorry, wish I could be more help. Sounds like you'll just have to take it apart again and see if you can find what you may have missed. Bad bearing maybe?

So after I put the horn piece in the steering shaft seems to be staying in place. Now my problem is when I plug in the turn signal switch my horn goes off and won't stop. Fix one problem, create another!

 

[Wes Harden]

Been a very long time since I have been in a chevy column that old.
Is there a spring under horn ring?
Does the horn sound with out the horn pad, cup parts installed.

 

[KCk51974]

Been a very long time since I have been in a chevy column that old.
Is there a spring under horn ring?
Does the horn sound with out the horn pad, cup parts installed.

I have put the steering wheel on, but not the rest of the horn cup, etc. It does however, go off even when i connect the wires with no steering wheel or turn cam in place. What's also odd is the color of the wires for the new signal don't match those on the old (original) signal. And, of course, the signal was working for a period without the horn, but was causing the signal for the wrong direction to activiate. I couldn't figure it out, went inside for a bit, and my horn started going off. Disconnected the battery to stop the horn, but unless I keep the turn signal switch desconnected the horn will blare! Neighbors hate me.

 

[Wes Harden]

The horn grounds through the the steering column, when you push the horn button. The black wire in the column connector on the truck side should be the horn ground circuit. Remove the wire from the connector on turn signal side of black wire. Connect battery if horn still sounds, find the relay it may be stuck closed, welded.
If horn doesn't sound the wiring in the column has an issue.
Might have to mutimeter the turn signal to make sure all the wires are in the correct locations.
How many wires total?

 

[KCk51974]

Thanks Wes, I will try that in the morning. 8 wires on the switch.

 

[Wes Harden]

Check out post 2

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?p=7651824

 

[KCk51974]

So here’s the update. Disconnected black wire and horn still blared. Disconnected horn relay, which is in pretty rough shape. See photo Guessing/hoping that’s the issue. Don’t have a meter to run the testing suggested in the other posts, although I have seen that post. Thanks again for the help.

 

[KCk51974]

Seems to me this relay is shot.

 

[Wes Harden]

It doesn't look welded. Does look cruddy thou.
Do you have a test light?
1 of the wires for the relay will have battery voltage. The will be a switched ground and the 3rd is your horn.
You obviously have power. So connect the test light to battery + and test the 2 wires the horn side should light, may sound horn, don't leave connected long lots of amps.
The other should not light untill you press horn button. If it does the switched side is sorted to ground.
Don't worry if you try to test the hot side, it won't hurt your light or the truck.