NEK5
3/4 ton status
I got a 90 k5 and i`m looking for a new more heavier duty steering shaft....double u joint or rag...that will be a direct bolt on....any links or anything would be appreciated
BIGBEN
BIGBEN
CK5
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Steering Shaft
- Thread starter NEK5
- Start date
1985_K5_Silverado
1/2 ton status
I'm looking into this myself for my '85. The remaining steering play has got to go! I think I'm going to go with one of these. Not cheap, but very beefy-looking:BIGBLAZE433 said:
http://www.borgeson.com/TruckProductChevy.htm
Summit has them:
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=/egnsearch.asp&N=400016
NEK5
3/4 ton status
i was also lookin at those...does anyone know if they are direct bolt ons?
1985_K5_Silverado
1/2 ton status
I'll probably find that out the hard way, but I'll hope that it's an easy installation. I still haven't decided go with the two-U-joint design or the conventional design, since I'm unsure how much more vibration would reach the steering wheel without a rag joint in the shaft assembly.BIGBLAZE433 said:
I know there would be more road feel & feedback at the steering wheel, and that's usually a plus, as long as there isn't so much that you feel like you're running a jack-hammer. If the rag-less shaft did hamer my hands too much, I suppose that I could always get e squishier steering wheel.
I want to get one installed by Valentine's day, because I'm really getting to love my '85, I'd love it even more if it were a little tighter up in the front end.
i have the borgeson shaft. dubble joint. easy install. just need hand tools and saw to cut shaft to length. comes with extra for body lifts and stuff. with my crossover / highsteer and that shaft on a tight steering box the wheel is moved and the tires fallow. basicly no play at all.
They are not direct bolt-ons. They'd like to tell you they are, but in alot of cases they are not. Some cases they are, if your one of the lucky ones.
Read my adentures here.
That said, it's a sweet shaft, if you can get it to fit. Watch the steering box end size (2 different sizes depending on year), thecolumn end (my dhaft in my '84 column didn't have the 2nd flat on it, therefor didn't fit out-of-box and they don't make and end to fit it, had to
the 2nd flat.
Must cut all of them to lenght as well, but that's pretty easy.
Read my adentures here.
That said, it's a sweet shaft, if you can get it to fit. Watch the steering box end size (2 different sizes depending on year), thecolumn end (my dhaft in my '84 column didn't have the 2nd flat on it, therefor didn't fit out-of-box and they don't make and end to fit it, had to
the 2nd flat.Must cut all of them to lenght as well, but that's pretty easy.
Late 80's or early 90's XJ double U-joint shaft is pretty much a direct bolt in replacement. Certainly no more work than a Borgeson...
Got mine for $15 cdn at the local pick-n-pull.
Rene
Got mine for $15 cdn at the local pick-n-pull.
Rene
NEK5
3/4 ton status
what would u recommend???? should i get one for the rag joint so i dont feel vibrations or should i go double u joint?
The XJ shaft is double U-joint, same as a borgenson shaft. Costs a hair less though 
Rene
Rene
astro vans have a ujoint setup 
NEK5
3/4 ton status
so back to the original question...will the borgenson shaft bolt right up w/ cutting to my 90 blazer????
1985_K5_Silverado
1/2 ton status
I think I'm going to call Borgeson and ask them this stuff about what needs to be done to make it fit before I order a shaft.
NEK5
3/4 ton status
ok....if u could as well ask them about a 1990
NEK5
3/4 ton status
so
so does any one else know a steering shaft that will just bolt right up in a 1990 k5 blazer?
so does any one else know a steering shaft that will just bolt right up in a 1990 k5 blazer?
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
Like Rene said an shaft from an XJ will bolt right in, is double Ujointed and has an isolator on it so it removes some vibrations. I have one on my 87 and it works just fine. I will get pics tonight when I go to where my truck is.
Ira
Ira
NEK5
3/4 ton status
please and ty....but wouldnt the borgenson be better and if not y? the only problem is i dont really have access to a jeep because there really arent any at the junk yard
NEK5
3/4 ton status
73k5blazer said:They are not direct bolt-ons. They'd like to tell you they are, but in alot of cases they are not. Some cases they are, if your one of the lucky ones.
Read my adentures here.
That said, it's a sweet shaft, if you can get it to fit. Watch the steering box end size (2 different sizes depending on year), thecolumn end (my dhaft in my '84 column didn't have the 2nd flat on it, therefor didn't fit out-of-box and they don't make and end to fit it, had to
Must cut all of them to lenght as well, but that's pretty easy.
do u get any vibrations????
BIGBLAZE433 said:
Borgenson is nice, but spendy. It is basically the same as any OEM double u-joint shaft...found commonly in Some Jeeps, GM vans etc etc. The shaft I got looks brand new and cost me about $15 cdn, and it's bolt in.
FWIW death wobble isn't caused by worn steering shafts. My guess is you have serious ball joint issues and or worn TRE's and DLE's.
Rene
wetbackZO
1/2 ton status
does a worn out steering shaft cause play in steering?? Is the rag-joint the culprit?? Or could it be the steering box itself??
There are a lot of possibilities for wander or sloppy steering. All it takes is a bit of time and a helper and you'll find the problems readily enough.
Chock the wheels, fire the truck up and have your helper move the steering wheel to the right a turn or so, then back left. Watch for flex or other weird movement at the rag joint. Listen for clunks and bangs, they usually indicate either a steering box that is loose or a frame that is cracked.
Now slide under the front of the truck (safely away from the front tires) and watch what the box is doing. At one point I could clearly see my box move...bolts were loose and I later found frame cracks. Now watch the drag link ends as the steering is cycled back and forth. If they're worn you'll see excessive movement. Next is the Tie rod ends...same deal, watch for movement or play that shouldn't be there. Last thing to check is movement at the spring perch. There shouldn't be any...but if you have loose U-bolts or a broken center pin there will be movement or clunking noise or both.
If all that checks out get your helper to help you check the toe-in. All you need is a tape measure...get your helper to hold the dumb end of the tape against the inside of the tire on a good part of the sidewall about halfway up the tire (ahead of the diff). You read the smart end of the tape and write down the measurement. Have your helper hold the tape on the same part of the tire behind the diff while you read the smart end of the tape again. The measurement up front should be between 1/8" and 1/4" smaller than the measurement behind the diff. If it's not within that range you can loosen the adjuster collar bolts and turn the adjuster one direction or the other to get it within range. Make small adjustmants, roll the truck back and forth a ways and re-check.
Now jack up one side of the front so the tire is about an inch or two off the ground. Pull the bottom of the tire towards you...if the ball joints or kingpins are in good shape the tire will not move towards you at all. Any movement down there indicates bad ball joints or king pin issues.
Every area I've mentioned is somewhat common for problems to be found. Very common are frame cracks and loose steering box bolts. Weld in frame repair kits take care of cracked frames, and the bolt in braces help keep them from cracking again as well as firming up the steering by tirangulating the frame in that area.
FWIW I've done all of this to my own truck over the years and although I don't have the double U-joint steering shaft in place (yet) my truck rolls down the highway with little to no wander at all...and i run unbalanced 39.5" bias ply TSL's with a single stock stabilizer.
HTH
Rene
Chock the wheels, fire the truck up and have your helper move the steering wheel to the right a turn or so, then back left. Watch for flex or other weird movement at the rag joint. Listen for clunks and bangs, they usually indicate either a steering box that is loose or a frame that is cracked.
Now slide under the front of the truck (safely away from the front tires) and watch what the box is doing. At one point I could clearly see my box move...bolts were loose and I later found frame cracks. Now watch the drag link ends as the steering is cycled back and forth. If they're worn you'll see excessive movement. Next is the Tie rod ends...same deal, watch for movement or play that shouldn't be there. Last thing to check is movement at the spring perch. There shouldn't be any...but if you have loose U-bolts or a broken center pin there will be movement or clunking noise or both.
If all that checks out get your helper to help you check the toe-in. All you need is a tape measure...get your helper to hold the dumb end of the tape against the inside of the tire on a good part of the sidewall about halfway up the tire (ahead of the diff). You read the smart end of the tape and write down the measurement. Have your helper hold the tape on the same part of the tire behind the diff while you read the smart end of the tape again. The measurement up front should be between 1/8" and 1/4" smaller than the measurement behind the diff. If it's not within that range you can loosen the adjuster collar bolts and turn the adjuster one direction or the other to get it within range. Make small adjustmants, roll the truck back and forth a ways and re-check.
Now jack up one side of the front so the tire is about an inch or two off the ground. Pull the bottom of the tire towards you...if the ball joints or kingpins are in good shape the tire will not move towards you at all. Any movement down there indicates bad ball joints or king pin issues.
Every area I've mentioned is somewhat common for problems to be found. Very common are frame cracks and loose steering box bolts. Weld in frame repair kits take care of cracked frames, and the bolt in braces help keep them from cracking again as well as firming up the steering by tirangulating the frame in that area.
FWIW I've done all of this to my own truck over the years and although I don't have the double U-joint steering shaft in place (yet) my truck rolls down the highway with little to no wander at all...and i run unbalanced 39.5" bias ply TSL's with a single stock stabilizer.
HTH
Rene
