jd70ssclone
1/2 ton status
Is there a way to take up on the steering slop in the box?
CK5
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steering slop adjustment ?
- Thread starter jd70ssclone
- Start date
only the sector shaft preload (the nut on top) but that's only if it's really the problem
otherwise, it's rebuild or new time
otherwise, it's rebuild or new time
Make sure your frame isn't cracked around the steering box. This will cause a lot of slop and wandering and it is really common on these trucks, especially with bigger tires.
jd70ssclone
1/2 ton status
Its braced damn good there's some slip in the box or something because when I turn the wheel the pitman has delayed reaction
not recomeneded as its prob time for a box..
but loosen nut.
turn set screw with allen wrench till just bottoms out real easy DONT force it.
then back off set screw 1/4 turn and hold when seting the lock nut.
if you go tight or over it WILL trash the box
but loosen nut.
turn set screw with allen wrench till just bottoms out real easy DONT force it.
then back off set screw 1/4 turn and hold when seting the lock nut.
if you go tight or over it WILL trash the box
andyblack
Registered Loser
I did that with mine and it just got harder to turn. The slop was still there unfortunately, so I ended up backing it out again. After that I got a "rebuilt" steering box from O'Reilly and it had more slop in it than the one I turned in. I think all they did is just put in new seals and paint it. It's probably better to get it rebuilt by someone who knows what they're doing.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
I tried that adjustment on my old '78 Cadillac, made the steering tighter, like sticky, it wouldn't return to center as easy anymore, even after I loosened it back up because I thought I tightened it too much.
I don't mess with that thing anymore.
I don't mess with that thing anymore.
You can also make an adjustment at the spanner type nut where the steering shaft goes in. When I replaced my input shaft seals I tightened that up about 1/8th turn.
I can actually let go of the wheel on the highway at speed and the truck tracks straight. None of that sawing the wheel side to side anymore.
I'm no steering box expert but I did do some searching and reading on it because I was replacing the input seals and had to take that apart anyway. There is a proper way to adjust this, something about measuring the turning torque of the input shaft. Needless to say I didn't do that, just made my adjustment with an edumacated guess.
I'm thinking a lot of the steering slop comes from this adjustment. Basically, when I put it back together, I thought I had it in the right spot via my markings I made before removal. So, when I turned the steering wheel, it would go about a 1/4 turn before any movement of the pitman arm. As I turned the wheel (actually I was grabbing the steering shaft with my hand and turning that) I was watching the input shaft slide in/out of the box before hitting the stops and effecting the pitman. I had another turn or two on the spanner nut to go. I ended up locking it down 1/8th turn past my original markings and I feel it steers like it should have from the factory. Been a few months now. So far, so good.
So, with heed, try making that adjustment. If you adjust too far it can ruin the box. Just remove the big stamped steel lock nut, and that will reveal the spanner nut (round and flat with 2 holes in it). I didn't have the proper tool for it but I did have a brass punch and a hammer, and that seemed to work fine.
I can actually let go of the wheel on the highway at speed and the truck tracks straight. None of that sawing the wheel side to side anymore.
I'm no steering box expert but I did do some searching and reading on it because I was replacing the input seals and had to take that apart anyway. There is a proper way to adjust this, something about measuring the turning torque of the input shaft. Needless to say I didn't do that, just made my adjustment with an edumacated guess.
I'm thinking a lot of the steering slop comes from this adjustment. Basically, when I put it back together, I thought I had it in the right spot via my markings I made before removal. So, when I turned the steering wheel, it would go about a 1/4 turn before any movement of the pitman arm. As I turned the wheel (actually I was grabbing the steering shaft with my hand and turning that) I was watching the input shaft slide in/out of the box before hitting the stops and effecting the pitman. I had another turn or two on the spanner nut to go. I ended up locking it down 1/8th turn past my original markings and I feel it steers like it should have from the factory. Been a few months now. So far, so good.
So, with heed, try making that adjustment. If you adjust too far it can ruin the box. Just remove the big stamped steel lock nut, and that will reveal the spanner nut (round and flat with 2 holes in it). I didn't have the proper tool for it but I did have a brass punch and a hammer, and that seemed to work fine.
andyblack
Registered Loser
I need to try this. Where is this nut you have to remove to make this adjustment? Do you have to remove the steering shaft?
you guys better do a advanced search and search steering box and 4x4high member. he remans them and does it right and gives out real good info on playing with a box before you brake it.
andyblack
Registered Loser
Yeah I've read several of his posts and he does know what he's doing. He was telling one time about how there's two different size ball bearings inside the box that are really close in size (I mean like a couple thousandths or something) and that you have to get them in the right order when you rebuild the box or you'll screw it up.
I think at one time he was letting guys ship them their boxes and rebuilding them for them. Don't remember for sure though.
I think at one time he was letting guys ship them their boxes and rebuilding them for them. Don't remember for sure though.
Yes. x2. Do your research. Know what the heck you are doing before getting into it. I will say, I've had years of technical schooling and years of experience in the field. I've never had a steering box apart, nor was I taking this one apart completely. Just had to replace a seal. It's not rocket science. And after rebuilding cars, parts, engines, axles, and even some transmissions in school, I kinda have a "feel" for how things should go back together. This is where my previously mentioned educated guess comes into play.
I also see it like this... if you are already thinking you need to replace your steering box, what's it gonna hurt to try and adjust the one you have. Got nothing to lose at that point, and the cost of replacement to gain.
And to answer your question, no you don't have to remove the steering shaft. The big stamped steel lock nut is on the input shaft side of the box. You can't miss it. It's the only stamped steel nut on the box.
