Steering tapers, reaming, etc

[pvfjr]

Well we're looking at getting the steering set up on this S10 SFA project. This waggy D44 used to be spring over with an inverted T setup. But now that it's spring over, it sure doesn't look like there's a way for the draglink to be able to reach the tie rod without hitting the leaf spring. So it looks like we're gonna have to get a flat knuckle for the passenger side. So I've got a few questions.

Do we have to get a pair of knuckles or just one side? The TRE comes in from the top, not the bottom. It also fits the GM taper, as the ES2234R I had sitting around popped right in.

Do all D44's fit that taper? I'm wondering, cause I want to go ahead and get a tie rod ordered and on the way, and I want to make sure that if I get a tie rod setup that is designed around using the ES2234R TRE's, I can still use them if I change out the knuckles later.

What about this pitman arm? We're putting on a box from an Astro, looks like it has maj/min diameters of about .642 and .547, about .1 too small for the ES2234R TRE. Is there another TRE or DLE we should use at the pitman arm? Cause I imagine that any steering arm we get is gonna be tapered for the GM taper. I'd like to get the draglink ordered too. If I can get everything using the same taper, then we can use four of the ES2234R's (which is nice cause we can get them for $15). Would those have enough angle to run on a draglink on an S10 with a narrow track D44 and 14" of lift? Or should I be looking at DLE's? What kind of taper to the DLE's run? Are they all 7/8-18 like the TRE's, or would I have to look at a different type of tubing for the draglink than what we're using for the tie rod?

 

[pvfjr]

Well it looks like we're gonna try reaming the puny pitman arm for a TRE. Somebody stop me if it's a bad idea.

I'm still curious about whether or not all D44 knuckles were reamed for the standard GM TRE taper of the ES2234R or not. Also, which ones had the TRE's come in from the top and which ones from the bottom?

Come on now.

 

[pvfjr]

 

[pvfjr]

I'm beginning to get disappointed...

 

[pvfjr]

I have officialy lost faith in CK5.

 

[ColAdo82K5]

You can buy a reamer for about $60 or so. I like your plan. I used 3 ES2234r's ends my crossover setup, but I used one left handed thread on for the tierod. All knuckles will fit the same ends. From drum brakes to disk brakes, top or bottom mount, they are all the same I believe. You might get a reamer to open up the pitman arm so to keep the same end all the way around. That way, you only need one thread tap to make the draglink and tie rod.
Blake

 

[pvfjr]

Well it looks like we might be getting a knuckle, hopefully it has the tie-rod on top. We're getting the pitman arm reamed to fit this week by a local guy. Hopefully the TRE's will have enough angle to run on the draglink in such a narrow vehicle with so much lift.