What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Steering upgrade

kpotter34

kpotter34

Registered Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2017
Posts
21
Reaction score
5
Location
South Dakota
does anyone have any suggestions on steering upgrades from the axle to the steering wheel? I currently have a Dana 60 1 ton axle with 6" lift with factory components, 35x12 general grabber at2 on 18x10 rims with disc brake conversion and I have too much steering wheel movement. Thanks for the info!
 
kpotter34 said:
does anyone have any suggestions on steering upgrades from the axle to the steering wheel? I currently have a Dana 60 1 ton axle with 6" lift with factory components, 35x12 general grabber at2 on 18x10 rims with disc brake conversion and I have too much steering wheel movement. Thanks for the info!
Click to expand...
Currently riding on SJA Hydro 7000 shocks along with 7220 dual steering stabilizers.
 
Have you inspected or replaced any of the steering components? Things to look at would be tie rod ends, drag link, rag joint and check the steering box for slop. Pics of the setup would also help.....
 
The tie rid and tie rod ends have been replaced but nothing else. I will take more pics later and post them. Thought I already had some but was wrong. Thanks
 
what steering correction do you have for the 6" lift and dana 60 ?

if steering block they SUCK . never could keep mine tight . ditch it and do drop pitman arm . or dodge steering arm for 60 with the tapper redone to top side .

also frame area were box bolts on for cracks or loose bolts to box .

and rag joint on slip joint play in steering shaft to box .
 
sweetk30 said:
what steering correction do you have for the 6" lift and dana 60 ?

if steering block they SUCK . never could keep mine tight . ditch it and do drop pitman arm . or dodge steering arm for 60 with the tapper redone to top side .

also frame area were box bolts on for cracks or loose bolts to box .

and rag joint on slip joint play in steering shaft to box .
Click to expand...

IMG_2257.JPG

IMG_2258.JPG

IMG_2259.JPG

IMG_2261.JPG

IMG_2262.JPG
 
yep them cheep made steering lift blocks . I never liked them .

this is a good read also to help pin point what you need. https://ck5.com/forums/threads/stoc...robably-should-not-use-what-you-think.329820/

I see you have good springs upfront . tuff country good ride and quality .

also have someone turn the wheel left/right just to the point of tires moving . you watch the input of the steering shaft to the output of the pitman shaft and check for play . this can give a lot of slop also .
 
sweetk30 said:
yep them cheep made steering lift blocks . I never liked them .

this is a good read also to help pin point what you need. https://ck5.com/forums/threads/stoc...robably-should-not-use-what-you-think.329820/

I see you have good springs upfront . tuff country good ride and quality .

also have someone turn the wheel left/right just to the point of tires moving . you watch the input of the steering shaft to the output of the pitman shaft and check for play . this can give a lot of slop also .
Click to expand...
Sounds good. Thanks for the info! Too fun to drive to leave sitting due to crappy steering.
 
and if your steering box is sloppy, it would be a good time to go crossover (if that's something you want to do).
 
I am pretty sure the gear box needs to be replaced. I am pretty new to blazers/jimmys...always been a car guy so I am still learning. Which upgrade would be better for the long run so that I don't have to replace it again in 5 yrs and also more cost effective? It also has power steering but I am assuming both would be compatible.
 
Going cross over means you either need a 2wd steering box or a 2wd sector shaft for your box.

Then the drag link will come off the steering box and go to the other side. They steer much better and smoother, but it is an investment

If the box just needs adjustments, that would be good. But if you're going to buy a steering arm or pitman arm, might be time to price the crossover and only replace parts once
 
If you don't flex the front suspension on anything larger than a driveway or hunting roads, than no, don't bother with the crossover. If you do want to spend the money, it will still be an improvement.

For forest-p: you aren't running any lift, or barely any, which would put everything very close to the springs (aka: draglink and pitman) With a D44/10b, the crossover option can be another $200 for the passenger knuckle and machining. So I think, in your thread, everyone is just weighting in with their own opinion as to whether you actually need to make the change.
 
K85 Octane said:
[if] you aren't running any lift, or barely any, which would put everything very close to the springs (aka: draglink and pitman).
Click to expand...

I exchanged a few emails with ORD and they said it is fine with the low lift -- it keeps the cross over draglink closer to parallel to the axle which is even better.
 
Last edited:
Just make sure to run a bump stop on that driver side. That leaf will come very close to the draglink during tuck, closer to the pitman arm when turning passenger.
 
forest_peterson said:
I am exactly in this situation and in another thread I was convinced NOT to go crossover for various reasons unless I have found actual issues off-road. I just sent out emails to my local power steering rebuild shops for a quote to rebuild my current box.

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/disc...eight-daily-driver.330500/page-2#post-3800490
Click to expand...

quick reading your thread, I think you have other issues that combo'd up are affecting your steering. you mention your spring bushings are shot. your only running 2 leaves in the front and they are flat to negative arched sitting parked in the picture I saw. no sway bar and the factory steering arm/drag link. How old are those front shocks? You combine all that together and thats probably 90% of your steering issues. I would address those things whether I went cross over or not. Do you have to run a sway bar? nope..but what ever is expected to take up the lack of sway bar slack cant be worn out too.
 
Blazooki said:
quick reading your thread, I think you have other issues that combo'd up are affecting your steering
Click to expand...

Could be. I don't have any steering issues. My box is certainly worn out but that is it.
The shocks are only six months old. They replace the same shocks that I'd bought in 1994 -- one started leaking and was a warranty replacement so I replaced both. Unless shocks leak they don't go bad.
Everthing else is OEM so shouldn't be a problem (through also shouldn't be impressive). Two leaf reverse arch is OEM and not a bad setup. Swaybar was an option; my '72 didn't have one from the factory (tow package option). The front bushings could be replaced though they are not that bad -- the rear bushings at the shackle are all new.
I don't want to hijack this thread from the OP but let me tell you about my grandpa. He was an aircraft mechanic in WWII. We learned one thing. Change the oil and grease the joints. That was it. This blazer has always had cleaner oil and grease than my frying pan. The joints are all tight.
 
Last edited:
I thought you had bump steer issues ? I musta misread what you posted. Glad you got it figured out
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom