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Steering wander question

J

jamezz

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Location
Vancouver WA
New leaf springs, bushings, good tie rod ends, new ball joints, good steering box and frame reinforced at the box. Still getting some wander.
I don't have a steering stabilizer. Is a stabilizer really that helpful or is it possible I might have missed something on the front suspension.
 
Let me ask this, when you complete a turn does the wheel come to center on it's own ? If you let go of it? Or do you need to turn back to go straight ?
 
Wes Harden said:
Let me ask this, when you complete a turn does the wheel come to center on it's own ? If you let go of it? Or do you need to turn back to go straight ?
Click to expand...

I believe it comes back. But sometimes I will definitely check. What is the reasoning behind this?
 
If the ball joints recently replaced where over tightened the the knuckles will not turn smoothly. This is sometimes called memory steer, and sure there are other names for it. If you have memory steer that could contribute to wander. After you turn you should be able to let go of the wheel and have start spinning back to center on it's own. Alignment can also effect memory steer.

Next question how much lift if any are you running ?
 
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Had to edit my last answer, knuckles will *not turn smoothly.

So 4" lift with 33's, shouldn't effect caster enough to cause wander. Same as my rig, I can let go of the wheel no sweat. Also the steering dampener not being there is not the cause of your wander. The dampeners job it to "dampen" the shock in the steering wheel on rough terrain, when the road and rocks are pushing the wheels side to side.
Does always go one direction ? or no telling.
 
It feels like bad tie rod ends but those are fine.
While driving it just tends to wonder to each side and I need to fight to keep it straight. Especially if there's a bend in the road going more than 30.
I never did an alignment after the ball joints so that could be it.
 
Did you do a steering correction to go with your 4-in lift? As in a drop pitman arm? Is your drag link in good shape? Also check your rag joint for excessive play.
 
If everything mechanical keeps checking out. Play with your tire pressure a little. 33’s tend to run on just the middle of the tire at speed if they have too much air for the weight on them. Drop 5 psi and see if it then feels right or heavy at speed. If right, leave it there. If heavy go up a pound or two and try again.

My M1009 right/loosy goose line with BFG’s is 35 psi. Yet my Suburban with 35’s line is right at 40 psi. That is without a trailer. I just got home from hauling a tractor 60 miles and it was a white knuckle experience. I was never able to pick a line and keep it where I wanted. Very squirrelly with weight off the front tires.
 
I threw on a kyb steering stabilizer today. Its a dana 44 and has a factory spot for one. It's made a big difference. I can tell now more than ever an alignment will help even more. After the lift, axle swap and ball joints I never did an alignment. As for the tire pressure I'm running about 32psi simply cause it's a rough country lift and I like a little cushion....
Might raise that a few to see if it'll track a bit better. After doing some road test the steering wheel does straighten out on its own on corners. I think a more minor tweaks and she'll be much better. Thank you for the responses.
 
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jamezz said:
New leaf springs, bushings, good tie rod ends, new ball joints, good steering box and frame reinforced at the box. Still getting some wander.
I don't have a steering stabilizer. Is a stabilizer really that helpful or is it possible I might have missed something on the front suspension.
Click to expand...
If you figure this out, PLEASE holler. I'm the same boat. I used a steering stab but had zero effect.
 
I found pretty good results ditching the factory rag joint as they can be sloppy right out of the box. Depending on the year of the Blazer the later ones can use an intermediate shaft from an early xj Cherokee is an easy swap.

It eliminates one zone of slop that these trucks have.
 
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