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Steering woes!

R

RIPPEDK5

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Ive got the usual sttering issues with the factory GM push/pull style steering setup. The truck has near 16+ inches of lift with 38's on a 10 bolt front end (not ideal but its what I got).. I dont have much budget left, nor do I want to spend money on an axle im not going to keep...( swap in the distant future).. My question is: When I turn my wheel lock to lock there is almost no tire movement (tires on the ground) and alot of steering wheel return pressure.

The frame and body flex WAY too much! (super stiff suspension)

How can i get the tires to move free-er (remember almost no budget left)..hydraulic steering and cross-over steering are far and beyond my budget reaches..

any help would be great
thank you
 
I know you don't want to here it but with that much lift I believe crossover may be your only correct answer. You have so much lift that you have the steering in a bind. You could try a drop pitman arm or drag link but they create other steering issues at the same time.
 
exactly what JEBSR said. hydraulic is not that expensive...i just bought mine last week and paid 135 for everything shipped to my door. you could also get a XJ steering shaft to help with play in the steering but it wont help the binding.
 
Additionaly have you crawled underneath and checked to see if your frame is cracked where your steering box bolts to the frame?

If your trying to turn those big A$$ tires sitting still and not moving that might be part of your problem. Just get cross over as soon as you can and it will be much better.
 
I agree with check the frame for cracks!!

Raised steering arm and dropped pitman arm may help but still not ideal.

Does the pump growl when you turn, if so you might try kid jethro power steering pump mods, they are free and easy.

sounds like a bind to me and because of the geometry the linkage is moving instead of moving the wheels.

A lot of the crossover stuff will transfer to the new axle, tie rod, steering rod, tre, or sre whichever you use.
 
dont some people put blocks under there raised steering arm? or is that just a stupid dangerous redneck way?:confused:
 
Well here is what I have for steering correction already

1) 6" raised steering arm

2) 6" drop adjustable drag link

3) 3" raised steering block

I would like to know where you got the hydraulic setup--that i may be able to do

No there is no pump wine and there are no cracks in my frame (yet)

There isnt any slop in the steering (its all tight) it just has alot of return pressure (when you let go after turning it to lock -it spins back like trying to cut your hand off)
 
if you put hydro assist on what you have now you will cause all sorts of other problems. the lift is just to big for push pull. the steering box is no longer push and pulling on the horizontal. its twisting.


What are your goals with this truck? why the huge lift? I think I remember you talking about rockwells and bigger tires. When will the budget catch up to your goals?

A quick fix would be to get a 6" lift kit for the truck. take the huge springs off until you have the money and all the parts to do what you really want. at least it will be useable until then, its seems like you want to keep driving the truck. you can sell the 6" lift and all the steering corrections when you finally have the money to run the huge stuff.
 
As much as a 6" lift sounds feasible, thats just extra money thats not in the cards... I wanted the truck to be different than all of the same old lift and tires everyone has...

Your right I did say about rockwells and 49's.. but my lead to rockwells never got back to me and I put my money else-where; so indeed there in the cards but in a future time... The truck isnt driven.. its not a daily driver.. Its a mud truck and a truck I like... I know its not what everyone wants but its what I want and I like the height.

I dont have money to buy winches and lockers and $2000 dollar flex suspensions. I have been building this truck for over 2 years now. It will never be a daily driver..just something fun..Isnt that what its suppose to be..Fun!

What problems will arise if I put hydro assist on the truck?

Your right the 10 bolt is not strong by any means but it came with the truck and didnt cost me $1000 that I dont have...

Im just trying to make something I like..

As far as the budget catching up...Does it ever.. I do things as I can.. I dont make $60k a year, barely $25k..Im trying
 
I do apologize for getting irritated, but ive gotten crap before for the height..Its just every where you look its all the same.. 4" and 33's, or 6" and 35's and then theres fender cutting which I wont do.. Im trying to get by with what Ive got.. Ive got no money to buy a $600+ 6" lift kit to just sell it.. I can put that hard earned money somewhere else..

I am just trying to get the steering liveable.....I did like the idea of hydro assist....tell me more

Im learning as we go too so dont think im not getting anything out of this...I get 10 different stories and need to find the right one that fits me..
 
RIPPEDK5 said:
I do apologize for getting irritated, I didn't see it as that. just you being honest.


I am just trying to get the steering liveable.....I did like the idea of hydro assist....tell me more
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the issues that may arise with stock steering and hydro may not effect you as much as people with flexy springs. what happens is that the ram and the stock steering will bind when flexing. everything in our steering systems operates on an arc. a hydro ram operates in a straight line. the fact that you mount it to the tie rod makes it operate on some what of an arc and crossover is forgiving for this setup.

If you are definitely going rocks then I would go right to full hydro. get a 10" ram and run 1" stops in each end. A rock needs a 10 stroke while a 60 needs 8". I don't know what a 44/10 bolt needs but it has to be closer to a 60 then a rock.

the most expensive part is going to be the orbital. but you said its not a daily driver. sometimes the project just stalls. 2 years is nothing. I have owned my truck since 12/07/98 and its what some people would consider to be a budget build while others see a 60 and think I have tons of money in it.

It can take a long time. I only suggested a smaller lift if it was something you wanted to drive. I did the huge lift thing. then I realized it was more fun to wheel it then to chase the issues stopping me from wheeling it. We are all here to help each other.
 
I appreciate sticking with this and not just saying "stupid kids, gunna get himself kiled" or something like that.. I want to fit 44's and play in the mud.. thats the goal... Some things i dont understand with axles is ive never broken an an axle shaft or an axle for that matter.....8" would be as low as I go...


Just as a thought Ive spent about 25-$30k on the truck already--even though it doesnt seem like it
 
RIPPEDK5 said:
Some things i dont understand with axles is ive never broken an an axle shaft or an axle for that matter.....
Click to expand...

Mud is a lot more forgiving then rocks. most times you are going straight, that helps a lot. every time I have broken something the tires were turned and bound up. it goes something like this. jam the tire against something while it is turned. slowly increase the engine rpm's as I try to get the truck to climb. eventually get the rpms up the stall speed of the converter and BANG. funs over. :( I broke a warn HD axle shaft in my dana 44 messing around in my driveway in the snow.:doah: I already had the 60 and was almost ready to put it in. 44's on a locked 44 and me driving are not a long lasting combo.:D but I didn't expect them to be. I just bolted them on to trim the fenders while I waited for my budget to catch back up with my 60 swap.
 
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