Stereo power question - constant vs switched?

[AJMBLAZER]

Dammit, switch is kinda fubar. Lord knows how old it is, was in with all my tools and garage stuff I inherited from Gramps.

At any rate...how big of a fuse should I put in with the switch? I figure it'd go after the switch. The stereo comes with a 10amp fuse in the back.

 

[dyeager535]

Yeah but its kind of nice to know that when you remove the key, you aren't draining the battery, and you can't forget. Heck, I NEED the key buzzer for headlights being on, radio would be the same way for *me*.

I'm curious now, where they made changes to eliminate ACC. Now that you mention it, pretty sure I heard that base, no option trucks were the same way, at least for awhile. GM probably figured out it was cheaper to make them identically later on.

 

[cdoggwsu]

Sorry that's what I was thinking when I said ACC, a position between OFF and ON/START, not like when you turn the key backwards...it's irrelevant at this point anyway!

A friend of mine was having problems with the switched inputs on an old Lincoln Continental and he ended up tapping the headlight switch. That way you'd be a lot less likely to leave it hot as opposed to a manual switch in the dash somewhere. I don't think the switched lead pulls that much but if it was an issue you could always run it thru a relay...that is if you don't mind driving everywhere with the lights on. The only time it would really be an issue is if you wanted to sit somewhere with the radio on and no lights.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Installed it yesterday. Stuck the switch down under the steering wheel on that removable part of the dash for installation convenience. Could have put it above or next to the stereo but that would have required awkward drilling and removing half the dash to do.

Liking it and it works just as it should now. Only problem is the blue lighted switch I bought at NAPA is actually a purple color and rather faint. Still, I should remember to turn the stereo off now.