Stereo system and cig lighter into a CUCV?

[AJMBLAZER]

Anybody ever done this? Looking to put a CD player, some speakers (nothing fancy, just some sound), and a cig lighter into my CUCV.

What did you do for an antenna?

Any issues?

I realize there's spots in the fuse box that can be used to power these items but I also am confused about just how you connect them to those spots? I've never done work with fuse boxes other than pulling and changing fuses.

 

[uao85]

Go to a hardware store like oreillys or autozone and they should have some electrical connectors that are little spades that have a waterproof sleeve around them that allow you to plug into accessory ports on your fuse block. Just run one of those plugs as a hot to your radio/acc plug and then a ground to right behind your headlight switch on the body, there should be a little bracket there with tabs sticking out that you can ground onto. But for the radio, you will have to tap into several different hot sources. I think you need a hot for the acc position on the ignition system, and then a hot source from the run position in the ignition system...I think thats the way they usually wire them up anyways.

Regards,
Remington

 

[dyeager535]

You won't need to tap ANY wires. The fuse panel has both hot in run and always hot positions. Easy way to figure it out is to check them with a voltmeter.

You can easily get the connectors from the wrecking yard, almost all GM's that vintage used the same connectors. Beware though, they are "keyed" so it is impossible to put the wrong connector in the wrong slot. They also lock in place so you don't have to worry about them jiggling loose. Might as well get a ground connector (if necessary) to use on the buss bar as well if you go to the 'yard.

Cutting/tapping into wiring only leads to potential problems, especially since it is not necessary.

 

[Metrodps]

Lighter
1. Pop the little silver.grey cap out of the as tray and remove the ash bucket.

2. Buy a lighter assembly from a car parts store.

3. Place the wires into the hole.

4. Next place the retainer peice onto the back (thread the wires thru hole in it.

5. Tighten the retainer to ash tray (turn it on the lighter part thru hole)

6. Ground it to a screw/bolt in bottom of dash.

7. Place an in line 20 amp fuse into the hot wire that you will run to fuse block. (you need about three feet of wire)

8. Run the hot wire over to the fuse block and with a male spade connecter. push plug into a hot block.

Radio
1.Remove the screws holding the dash cluster bezel (plastic cover in front of dash) Reach under dash to the head light switch and find the release button under it. Press it in (up) and pull light knob out. Head light will be on, use a thin screw driver or rod to press in and turn off.

2. You should now see the metal area where the radio goes.

3. You will need a dermil tool or a simalier device to cut the area for the radio. (you can find factory am/fm cassett on ebay for $20.00)

4. If you cut out the area to put the radio in you will also have to trim the plastic are for the front to fit also.

5. the ground can be any bolt you see in the area or as pointed out. The grounding block to the far left by the head light switch on door jamb area behind dash (can see thru hole for ac by light switch).

6. wire up speakers

7. put back together.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Any trick to getting the cig lighter blanking plate out of there? Seems like it's in pretty good.

Do I need to do some multi-spot hookup for the radio power or just hit one spot in the fuse block? Also, what size wire should I use for these?

I've put speakers and stereos in cars where there already were some but never done this from scratch. Thanks guys.

 

[bladwin]

Hmmm, CUCV's are 24volt systems? No? 24V stock radio anyone?

 

[Metrodps]

The M1008/M1009 were originally designed for civilian use, their heritage includes a 12-volt electric system. The military, of course, uses 24-volt electric appliances. Because of this, General Motors made some changes to the electrical systems of these military models.​

There are two alternators and two batteries, each of which is 12-volt. The alternators and batteries are connected in series to create 24- volts. The driver’s side alternator charges the vehicle’s front battery. This battery and alternator supply power for all the 12-volt components/systems. Both alternators charge the rear battery.​

The electrical system of the M1008/M1009 is a civilian 12-volt system modified to allow 24-volt starting and supply 24-volts for military accessories. The only true 24-volt component is the starter motor. The glow plugs and glow plug relay are 12-volt components. Their 24-volt power supply is reduced to 12-volt by the use of a resistor bank. All running lights, interior lights, and gauges are 12-volt components. ​

As you can see, General Motors modified what was designed as a 12-volt system into a quasi- 24 volt system for the military. Converting it back to a 12-volt system is neither costly nor difficult.​

I have the information if anyone needs it.

 

[Metrodps]

Q.Any trick to getting the cig lighter blanking plate out of there? Seems like it's in pretty good.
A. Mine was just a cap over the hole put a screwdriver under and popped it off no pressure

Q.Do I need to do some multi-spot hookup for the radio power or just hit one spot in the fuse block? Also, what size wire should I use for these?
A. The prior owner used end plug hook ups from a stereo store. On wire I sux on knowing sizes so can't tell you there but I would use like for fog lights;


I've put speakers and stereos in cars where there already were some but never done this from scratch. Thanks guys.

LMC Truck sells speakers for factory spots or if you can meet me in Dearborn Heights next week I will give you a pair of the outer ones for dash. I will be going to the Boneyard (no its a restaurant) on Telegraph Road.

Lighter installed

Grounding Block Location

Radio hole and factory wires

face of radio after install. Used an air tool to cut it. This dash has been replaced and I have it if you mess up its yours free.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Thanks for all the answers metro. I'm sure I'll have more.

I'll pass on the stocker speakers you have, but thanks. If you have some good Pioneers or Kenwoods sitting around...

Maybe soon I'll finish my DD regearing project and get started on this stuff.

 

[Metrodps]

Not a problem HELPING is what it is all about if you understand what being a brother means! All ways glade to help out a brother in mud

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Hey, dumb question but where did you put your speakers and what sizes did you use?

Oh yeah, and did you do anything about an antenna?

 

[uao85]

You won't need to tap ANY wires. The fuse panel has both hot in run and always hot positions. Easy way to figure it out is to check them with a voltmeter.

You can easily get the connectors from the wrecking yard, almost all GM's that vintage used the same connectors. Beware though, they are "keyed" so it is impossible to put the wrong connector in the wrong slot. They also lock in place so you don't have to worry about them jiggling loose. Might as well get a ground connector (if necessary) to use on the buss bar as well if you go to the 'yard.

Cutting/tapping into wiring only leads to potential problems, especially since it is not necessary.

yeah sorry didnt mean literally tap...........you just said what I meant to say...so yeah what he said.....

Remington

 

[uao85]

Hmmm, CUCV's are 24volt systems? No? 24V stock radio anyone?

they are a quasi 24/12 volt system, the only accessories getting 24volts is the starter and slave receptical, the said 24v runs through a resistor bringing it down to 12v before entering into the cab and to everything inside the cab.

Remington

 

[Metrodps]

I used the two outer holes (factory) and 3.5 inch speakers. The antenna you can mount on RH fender or they make hidden antennas also. A lot of guys cut the door and mount them in it. On a 79 Chevy truck I had I cut the door plastic and put in the lower inside corner. If you go to sell it no hole in door, the plastic panel can be replaced.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-yhheKgFKAXC/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=232750&I=12044UA20

What do you think of a hidden antenna like that? I was thinking maybe on the A-pillar next to the glass or the back of the cab by the rear window.

Thanks for the advice again.

Just because I haven't looked...is the wiring there for the dash speakers or is that completely up to me? I know the radio wiring is there...but what about the speakers? Like I'm said, I'm in new territory here.

 

[Metrodps]

Yea that is the kind I was thinking about. It uses 12v for power not sure why. But was thinking run it up and over windshield or door to area by dome light.

On the speaker wire my truck had factory speaker in middle but none on sides so I think you will need to run wires. It won't be hard since you will have dash pad off. Just put wire down thru holes and then run to radio area. While doing this you might consider pre wiring for rear speakers too. You don't have to run wires all the way back but have them so you can get to them easy. Mark the R & L so you know then when you want rear speakers you don't have to tear half you dash apart to wire them up.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Reading some of the obscure specs mentions it's amplified so that's probably what the power is for. Makes sense as it's so small and most people likely won't be glueing it to the top of their roof or center of their hood I guess.

I forgot about that center speaker...wonder if there's one in mine? Doubt it but you never know, GM might have thrown it in anyways. What size would that thing be?

I'm thinking just the 3.5's in the dash and some 6x9's in the doors to keep it simple. This thing's too loud to go all out with a big system...not to mention my ears don't differentiate sound to well so for me there's a point where all the best stereo stuff in the world sounds just like a $300 setup from Crutchfield...which mine will likely be.

Okay, please bear with the simple questions...all I've ever done is spliced the adaptor wiring harness to the new radio harness and plugged it in. Would I need to figure out which of those wires would be LF, RF, LR, RR, etc and splice into those or are there jacks in the back of most modern stereos to connect the individual speaker wires to? It's been several years now since I needed to get a new stereo and can't remember since I never paid much attention to it.

 

[Metrodps]

Reading some of the obscure specs mentions it's amplified so that's probably what the power is for. Makes sense as it's so small and most people likely won't be glueing it to the top of their roof or center of their hood I guess.
A.I will be putting mine inside by dome light if it picks up good.

I forgot about that center speaker...wonder if there's one in mine? Doubt it but you never know, GM might have thrown it in anyways. What size would that thing be?
A. Guessing 3.5 by 8 inches

I'm thinking just the 3.5's in the dash and some 6x9's in the doors to keep it simple. This thing's too loud to go all out with a big system...not to mention my ears don't differentiate sound to well so for me there's a point where all the best stereo stuff in the world sounds just like a $300 setup from Crutchfield...which mine will likely be.
A. Hey I agree on blowing big bucks.

Okay, please bear with the simple questions...all I've ever done is spliced the adaptor wiring harness to the new radio harness and plugged it in. Would I need to figure out which of those wires would be LF, RF, LR, RR, etc and splice into those or are there jacks in the back of most modern stereos to connect the individual speaker wires to? It's been several years now since I needed to get a new stereo and can't remember since I never paid much attention to it.
A. Yes the new one will have wires for speakers. If you want on the power use a scoth (spelling) Block and crimp it to the radio hot wire.the one for clock just run to fuse block and using a spade connector as described push it into the one for battery.

Any questions just keep asking either myself or someone else will cover it.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Thanks, I'm sure I'll have more.

 

[85-m1028]

I thought it would cool to mount the antenna on the side of the cab just behind the drivers side door, about the same level as the rifle mount. Mine already has a hole cut and plated of like it had some sort of CB radio antenna.

I think it adds to the military look.