Sticky brakes

[105thrider]

I've got a 98 k1500 and have replaced everything on the braking system (booster,master,lines,calipers,rotors and pads)and after bleeding the brakes and driving for a few minutes the peddle gets hard and the front brakes start to lock up, I'm not sure where the problem is but my gut tells me it has something to do with the brake booster. About to go crazy with it.

 

[Stomis]

I've got a 98 k1500 and have replaced everything on the braking system (booster,master,lines,calipers,rotors and pads)and after bleeding the brakes and driving for a few minutes the peddle gets hard and the front brakes start to lock up, I'm not sure where the problem is but my gut tells me it has something to do with the brake booster. About to go crazy with it.

Did you try pulling the vacuum line off the booster and seeing if they hang driving around with manual brakes?

If you drive and take an IR gun and pinpoint it to one corner I would say its probably a defective caliper or pins.

 

[105thrider]

Ive already put 2 sets of calipers on it, the first set that was on it when I put new booster on it, 2nd set after first set of pads burnt up, and now on third set of rotors pads and calipers.

 

[Blue85]

While it's hanging, crack the bleeder screw on the caliper. If fluid shoots out and the brake releases, it's something with the MC or booster. If the brake is still hung, it's in the caliper or guide pins.

 

[105thrider]

Sticking calipers was my first thought , it is frustrating as heck, have not tried removing vacuum line

 

[105thrider]

After cracking open bleeder valves fluid does shoot out pretty good, the brake booster is what I think it is, brake code on truck is jb6, I got booster from oriellys and they say that brakes code jb5 part # and jb6 are will interchange, I'm not sure I believe this

 

[Blue85]

There are different depths to different model MC and boosters, and also different length rods. Possibly yours is being depressed a little all the time (as you may be until you get your brakes fixed). With the brakes hanging, you could loosen the MC to booster bolts and see if the brakes release.

 

[diesel4me]

I dont see new rubber hoses on your list of replaced parts--often old hoses can clog up inside or the lining acts as a check valve,it wont let the calipers release,but the brakes apply OK...I have had several do this,and I replaced calipers for nothing--.
If fluid gushes out of the bleeders when you open them after pumping the brake pedal a few times,its a good bet the hoses are restricted--the wheels should spin free after you open the bleeders if the hose is bad..

The master cylinder needs a little free play at the brake pedal too,otherwise when the brake fluid heats up,the brakes will self apply a bit and drag,and the hotter the fluid gets,the more the wheels wont want to turn..

 

[105thrider]

There are different depths to different model MC and boosters, and also different length rods. Possibly yours is being depressed a little all the time (as you may be until you get your brakes fixed). With the brakes hanging, you could loosen the MC to booster bolts and see if the brakes release.

That is what was happening , the booster I got from oriellys was for ajb5 brake option and the said it was interchangeable but called them back and they actually had one that was like the original one, put it on and all is well, thanks for the input

 

[105thrider]

I dont see new rubber hoses on your list of replaced parts--often old hoses can clog up inside or the lining acts as a check valve,it wont let the calipers release,but the brakes apply OK...I have had several do this,and I replaced calipers for nothing--.
If fluid gushes out of the bleeders when you open them after pumping the brake pedal a few times,its a good bet the hoses are restricted--the wheels should spin free after you open the bleeders if the hose is bad..

The master cylinder needs a little free play at the brake pedal too,otherwise when the brake fluid heats up,the brakes will self apply a bit and drag,and the hotter the fluid gets,the more the wheels wont want to turn..

I did replace rubber lines also, that was my second thought. I turned out to be the booster. Fixed and rolling. Thanks for the input