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Sticky for 69-72?

hoodride

hoodride

1/2 ton status
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I thought it would be a great resource if someone could write one of these up for the 69-72 flavor: http://www.coloradok5.com/tirefitmenttable.shtml

I'd do it if I knew it, but I don't. I know there are endless ways to do things, but a basic guide would be nice, showing tire/lift sizes and incorporating MINOR trimming. Obviously if you just start hacking everything up you can fit most any tire, and the people doing that aren't likely to be looking at a guide like this anyways.

I'm curious what a 4" lift with zero rates and minor trimming will allow me, but I hate the age old question of "what size tire can I run?" and "how much lift?" So I don't bother asking.

Let me know if you guys think this is a good idea. :D
 
that link doesn't work for me
Click to expand...

It works here, but I'm not sure it answers your question. There's a lot of variables to take into account and it's tough to find a concrete answer.

I think on the early k5's the bigger fitment issues appear to be on the front. The big fang on the front fender is just waiting to hit something. Shifting the axle forward or back an inch or so can make a difference as well.

If it helps, I'm running a 4" lift on the front of mine and have 315/75-r16 (35's) and haven't had any issues with rubbing in Moab last year. I didn't do any extreme maneuvers but my springs feel pretty stiff even for EZ-rides so flexier springs might be different.

Of course, once you get up close to 40's, you're going to be cutting something no matter what.
 
So I found a set of 36" Gateway Buckshots (well, they're actually LT305 85R16) for a steal close to me. You think I could run these with some zero rates, moving both the front and back axles an inch to an inch and a half? I don't mind trimming a bit, but I don't want to go chopping my first love up :o
 
The 305/86-r16 comes out to a actual 36.4" diameter. My front axle is in the stock location and haven't rubbed anything yet on 34.9" diameter tires, but if I was really able to flex the front suspension more, I could probably get it to rub near the rear of the tire with the wheels turned to one side.

I did move my rear axle back 1" by replacing the spring perches and I should have gone 1.5" for an extra bit or margin.

I think you'll be pretty close with 36's. The ones you are looking at are thinner than mine too so you could be ok for the most part.
 
So you think by moving the rear 1.5" back and the front an inch forward I'd be good?

Thanks for all the help Brian...

Grant
 
You -might- be ok without any axle movement depending on how you use it. If you're sure 35's are too small, I'd leave the axles alone and try the 36's out. You'll be able to drive it ok, just won't be able to climb any trees. :)

You can also cut a big 36.4" circle out of cardboard and see what it looks like and where you might need to adjust things.
 
35's aren't too small, I just haven't found a decent set for sale with some 8-lug wheels around me. These are a killer deal, and some great tires too (from what I've read) so if I could make them work I'd be thrilled. I'm trying to track down some other people that might have a 4" with some zero rates on a first gen and see what tire size they are running, as well as how much they've trimmed :hack: :D
 
Well, like I said I have a 4" spring lift in the front on 35's with no trimming. A 36" tire would be 1/2" larger radius so I can't imagine a huge amount of problems coming from a 1/2" of extra tire. I can even post some pictures of it flexing on a curb... :)
 
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