still 5 psi, horrible crank case clacking

[ryoken]

that's no fun ......

ah, days of youth....

wisdom comes at a price, lets try not to add the cost of a premature rebuild to that tab...

rebuilds range from a $600 diy to how much power do i want... i would suggest a new longblock or crate in your case when the time comes..

 

[78Suburban]

diy ..

Do it yourself+building a motor+Me=KABOOM

 

[Leper]

Look at the bearings. I hate to say this, but if you had 1 bad bearing that was causing your O/P to drop, you could just replace that 1 and keep going. (not that I've ever done this...ummm, yeah, ok)

 

[3 on the tree]

Don't drive it any further than you want to walk. I had a 305 do similar to me years ago. Turns out it was a wiped cam bearing causing the oil pressure loss. Small blocks oil the top end first, then the crank. If you can, quit driving it. If you bugger the crank too bad, you will be hunting another crank come rebuild time.

 

[theperfectgarage]

Inspect what ever you can, fix it if you can. Or just go with 40 wt. oil, baby her and shop for good used or reman. avoid multi grades in a situation like this. The single weight will provide more " cushion". ( now let the oil debate begin).

 

[monster man]

pricing out machine work and the down time (usually one month or more), I would HIGHLY suggest a longblock or complete crate engine. Unless you're building a high output race motor machining an old junk block isn't worth the time or money

 

[78Suburban]

Inspect what ever you can, fix it if you can. Or just go with 40 wt. oil, baby her and shop for good used or reman. avoid multi grades in a situation like this. The single weight will provide more " cushion". ( now let the oil debate begin).

Is 30wt less thick than 40wt? tell me if my thinking is backwards.. The local auto parts store has some straight 30 wt. I'm thinking of trying to run this for a while...

So when my motor does quit running, how will it likely happen? I've never blown one up before... will something sling loose and knock a hole in the block, or will it blow up, or what? Describe a motor dying please

 

[MrArmyAnt]

Blew bearings in an X5, sounded similar. Oil pan sounds like a good option...

 

[diesel4me]

Oil ratings..

The higher the number,the thicker the oil..so SAE 40 is thicker than SAE 30..a "multi weight" Oil like 10W30 is 10W when its cold,and supposedly thickens up to 30W when it warm up..or at least "protects" like 30W would..I think it still thin myself..

Motors can "blow up" many different ways..some do toss a rod thru the block!--others will run forever on 7,6,5, or less cylinders,and just drive you nuts..some seize up tighter than a bull's butt in fly season and never turn again..
(they are the fun ones to remove,when you cant turn the motor over,and get all the torque converter bolts out ,and you have to pull IT with the motor,and make a big mess..)..


If your motor is already rapping now,the damage is done!--I'd save my money for another engine now,rather than spend any more on this one--Lucas or similar additives might delay the inevitable,but eventually its gonna pop!

..I've had good luck using motors from another chevy car or truck that is headed to he crusher due to rust,or an accident..many low mileage ones around here get squashed every day.. ..

 

[78Suburban]

Would a 283 out of a '66 chevy (rebuilt stock, less than 5k miles) have enough grunt to pully my heavy turd along? Or do I just need to save up and get the ol 350 long block? So a rebuild would definitely be a waste of money for my current motor?

does straight 30 wt have a decent chance of delaying the inevitable? Or should I try to find some straight 40?

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

I wouldn't bother with the 283, I don't think you will be happy with the results. Rebuilding your current motor isn't necessarily a waste of your time, IMO it is the best way to go (if you are capable and willing to do the work). You can do it for the cheapest and end up with the highest quality finished product if you do it yourself. But you will have quite a bit of down time on the truck, you will need to locate an engine hoist and stand, and you will need a fair chunk of your time and mechanical knowledge. Assuming you have never done this, you will probably want a friend to help you. Otherwise, it is very possible to get good long blocks for cheap, but be careful where you get them (and know what you are buying). Many of those deals are too good to be true, but the 350 is the most produced engine ever which also makes them the cheapest.

 

[diesel4me]

Yes and Yes...

A 283 was all they used in older Burbs ,like the 66 my brother used to own..they are 195 HP,and about 250ft lbs of torque,with a 2 bbl carb....it wont be fast by any means,but yes,it would propel it (so would a 250 six though! )....a 305 in later years only had 140HP,and about the same torque..a 283 has a shorter stroke,so it will want to wind up higher,and will have less low end takeoff than a 305 will...it wont like highway gears like 3.08's or big tires much..

As for your old motor,you might be able to rebuild it--you cant tell until you pull it out and apart,and do an autopsy..its like asking if someone with a heart condition will die,without having any X rays..its anyones guess as to how much damage has occurred..it could be a bearing knock,and the crank is now scored--or it could just be a piston with a broken skirt,that could run clacking for a long time,or even a loose timing chain hitting the timing cover..can't tell without seeing inside the motor..pulling plug wires off might help tell which cylinder has the bad bearing,or whatever is loose..or a stethascope..takes an experieneced mechanic to tell what noise is what..

In the long run a good used motor is usually far cheaper than rebuilding an old one that needs any machine shop work..or a "Goodwrench" new GM motor ,or a rebuilt from a parts chain like Autozone(I have seen many nightmares on those types of rebuilds though--thats why I tend to buy "good used" motors I can hear run,and check compression and oil pressure on before I buy!)..

The difference between 30 and 40 weight oil isn't that much..I bet if you look at a parts store youll find staight 50w racing oil--guys who race cars with blowers use it..we used to sell "Grade 70" amalie oil for Harley Davidsons that was almost as heavy as 90 weight gear oil! (which you DONT want to put in your motor,so dont ask! )... I'd say if 30W and Lucas doesn't quiet it down,then nothing else will either..

 

[mtnman]

oil

Valvoline makes a straight 60 weight oil - good stuff! And I agree about Lucas additive, Moreys is also good. Worth a try while you save up for a World Products 454 small block$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

 

[odoa3]

I had never rebuilt an engine before so I picked up the book "How to rebuild your small block Chevy engine" from Barnes and Noble. Great guide! Takes you step by step through how to pull it, take it apart, rebuild it, install it - basically everything you need to know. Be a good resource if you decide to rebuild yours.

 

[78Suburban]

283

If the old 283 doesn't have much torque, I am hesitant to put in in the heavy K20 burb, cause that's a lot of trouble, only to take it back out in no time when I want more power.. Come to think of it, that 283 does wind up obserdly quickly (at least in a manual tranny, c-10, with no bed ).....Step on the gas at all and it was kissin 5 grand.... always seemed to be healthy though........

This truck will be primarily a mud truck, but I'm sure that reqires plently of low end torque.. I suppose I'll just save up for a 350 long block. My neightbor knows somebody that has a 350 long block for 1100 bucks... but it has been siting in a crate like 2 years now, would that need a rebuild? He claims its a GM 350/350, but I think thats probably BS....... Probably just stock HP, but I'm plenty OK with that....

Dunno, Guess all I can do is save and wait right now. Guess there may be no mud tires this Christmas then ...........

 

[clarkjw24]

Are you able to do an engine swap? Do you have the tools, time and someone to help you? Reason I'm asking is I may be making a trip down to the atlanta area to pick up some parts (I'm trying to find someone coming from atlanta through S.C.) and just happen to have a cheap good running 350. I may be able to help you out. You could put this one in while you figure out if you want to rebuild your current.

But I would pull the oil pan and take a look inside. Also are you shure that the flexplate isn't cracked and making the racket. Some trucks don't have alot of oil psi and kinks in the sender line could effect your guage also.

 

[78Suburban]

Are you able to do an engine swap? Do you have the tools, time and someone to help you? Reason I'm asking is I may be making a trip down to the atlanta area to pick up some parts (I'm trying to find someone coming from atlanta through S.C.) and just happen to have a cheap good running 350. I may be able to help you out. You could put this one in while you figure out if you want to rebuild your current.

But I would pull the oil pan and take a look inside. Also are you shure that the flexplate isn't cracked and making the racket. Some trucks don't have alot of oil psi and kinks in the sender line could effect your guage also.

I don't really have much skills at all. I live 100 miles south of Atlanta. Would that be too far? email me about the price of the motor. [email protected]

 

[clarkjw24]

I'll email you tonight from my home computer.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

A 283 was all they used in older Burbs ,like the 66 my brother used to own..they are 195 HP,and about 250ft lbs of torque,with a 2 bbl carb....it wont be fast by any means,but yes,it would propel it (so would a 250 six though! )....a 305 in later years only had 140HP,and about the same torque..a 283 has a shorter stroke,so it will want to wind up higher,and will have less low end takeoff than a 305 will...it wont like highway gears like 3.08's or big tires much..

The 283 is rated in gross horsepower (because it is pre '71) while the 305 is rated in net horsepower. By comparison, the 1st gen Blazers were rated at 255 gross hp and 330 gross ft. lbs, IIRC. My '77s old stock 350 (which I almost guarantee makes very similar power, it didn't have any emissions equipment or anything) made 165 net hp and 255 net ft. lbs. That 283 would be a dog.