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Stock 83 k5 with 305 runs cold???

M

Muddin_Mavric

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Centeral WI
first of all i live in centeral WI and its starting to get around zero some days now and this dumb thing runs at about 125 F.

In the summer on hotter days it ran a little hotter but it never got above the 210 F mark. now it gets to about 175 to 185 after a cold start ( i asume then the thermostat opens) them it slowly drops down to 125F to 150F depending on what mood its in. I just changed the thermostate and it does the exact same thing. it had a 195F in it and the new 1 was a 195 too.


The heat seems kinda cool too i can have it on high for the whole 20 minute drive to tech school and it still dont seem to get really hot inside. so i think that my gauge seems about right. the air dont seem very hot when i feel it either. it dont seem to matter wither im in town or on the hight way much. but when i stop at a stop light i can see the gauge drop some. it also runs like crap too since it got colder and on the emisions stick it says its for high altitude operation.

There does apear to be a very small coolent leek that just started down around by the lower rad. hose but it hardly leeks at all. i cant even see where its commin from but i see the coolant their on the frame.

is there anything i can do? my teacher said to try putting carboard infront of the rad. but i cant find a good place to put it with the condenser thingy for the A/C their.


thanks for any /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif you can give me


Justin Behr
[email protected]
 
id say check yur thermostat, and that is probly what everyone else will tell you to do as well. good luck on that, the thermostat is probly stuck in the open position, which is GOOD in a sence, so yur motor dosnt melt down, but it is bad since its giving you the "cold shoulder" good luck. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

/forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
 
/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
ditto /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Not an expert, but I have a few similar problems and here are some things to check.

1. on the heater- is there a heat difference between the heater setting versus the defroster setting? Mine blows warmer air in defroster mode.

2. to check the thermostate you can put in a pot and boil the water. Find a cooking thermometer to check water temp and watch for it to open.

3.To test the card board theory, just duct tape it to the grill to see if makes any difference. Start conservatively though. you still need some air flow coming through.

4. what mix of anti freeze are you running? 50/50 70/30. My dad used to run straight Antifreeze and was such that his gauge never read right.

5. could also be a fan clutch problem if the temp drops at a stop light. I would thin that since less air is flowing through the radiator while standing still versus 45 mph. it should actually warm up some.

Just my thoughts.
 
well i'am not sure what you've done for mods in the cooling department, but i didn't get my combo right. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
I have a new stock rad with a highflow water pump and i belive i'am "outflowing" my radiator. right now i have 2 piece's of 1/4" plywood with holes drilled in them attached by a cable to the cab. i can open the rad to air flow or completely seal it off. Any time it drops bellow 35 or so i have the radiator sealed off. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif and it still won't run over 180. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif however if i stop in traffic it'll heat right up to 200 but no higher. i still think there's air cooling the radiator from behind, and the electric fan comes on at 200... if i remove the cover it'll cool to 140..

i'd cover the radiator to see if cold air flow is causeing the drop in temp.. make sure the cardboard (i used some thin plastic i had) is right on the radiator as this provided "for me" the best results.
 
I'm surprised you guys are having the problems you do. Wasn't able to test my 350 out this year, but in 9* weather, my dads 454 stayed nice and toasty.

Since the cardboard seems to be necessary for some people, I'm curious if those of you having problems, still have good "seals" in the engine bay.

The ones I'm thinking of are the ones that hang off of the innder fenders, basically sealing the gap between the frame and inner fenders.

Since some of you are running electric fans, (and one mentioned it wasn't on constantly) then that shouldn't be your problem, but with the clutch fans, in colder weather, they very well may be locking up. I don't really think that should be an issue, but we ARE dealing with 15+ year old parts. (most of us) A non-clutch solid fan (flex fans) has the potential to make the situation worse, its always trying to move air, regardless of how cold the engine is.

The thermostat regulates the engine temp, but if the outside temp is cold enough, it apparently can keep the engine from heating up to operating temp, whether or not you have a properly operating thermostat.

Even in 80 degree weather, air cleaner temps can be around 135-150* while moving, but with cold air induction (our trucks can be considered this if '81+) the air temps are around 10-20* warmer than ambient...so if you are looking at 0* outside air temps, cruising, you are looking at 10-20* air temp going into the motor. That will cool it way down. I'd try removing the snorkel those of you that are '81+ and running cold.
 
Well first comment, if you want more heat you don't put your fan speed on max, the lower speed gives you more heat.
Now for the cold weather you are experiencing, this is not cold, when you dip under 10 then it's cold, 30 is just cool.
I would suspect your fan clutch is not disengaging so blocking the air flow should help, use cardboard like every one mentionned.
I don't think the thermostat can help a lot if the outside temp is too cold but in your case 30 is average so the engine should be able to warm up.
To know if your thermostat is open open the rad cap and turn the engine on when cold, if you see the water moving, circulating, then it's open, if the water is still, even if you have it on fast idle, then it's closed and doing it's job.
/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Never thought about the snorkel being an issue, but shouldn't the baffle close, so more air is drawn in from the stove pipe?
 
Yes, you are right. If the thing is working correctly, it should close. Is everything in order with it though? The pipe or hose from the air cleaner to the manifold, and the shield on the manifold?

I've seen the temp switches in the air cleaner fail as well, but not sure how common that is.
 
thank you very much for all the replies i will try some of the stuff you mentioned and try and get back to you all soon.


thanks

Justin Behr
 
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