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Stock hitch

MTBLAZER89

3/4 ton status
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I have the stock reciever on my 89 V3500. Is this ok to use for towing the K5? I couldn't find any markings on it, but it looks to be the stock GM one. It's pretty beffy where it attaches to the frame. Also what is the difference between this reciever and a weight distribution setup? I can get some pics if needed.
 
Should be fine if its stock. Pretty sure the hitches on that generation of 1/2 ton truck were class 5......so they 1 ton version should be teh same.

Wait, im thinking 90's body style....either way, should be fine.
 
Well I was out digging around under the truck, and the hitch isn't stock. It's a custom built job from some welding company. It's welded on to the frame all the way up to the spring hangars then it has a break in it then it's welded to the frame some more in front. Looks like 5/16 or 3/8 plate all along the bottom of the frame. The only thing I don't like about how it looks is the plate is just flat plate there is no angle where it attaches to the frame. Just a single weld on the bottom of each rail from what I can see.

It sort of looks like this looking straight down the frame rails from the back

T====[ ]====T

Where the horizontal and vertical parts of the T is it's just welded.

I hope that isn't too confusing. I guess there is really no way of guessing the class of the hitch.
 
The lines marked in RED are the welds. It's welded inside the mount as well. I was thinking maybe have somebody weld some angle tabs on the mount so that I could bolt to the bottom of the frame as well.


112_1253.JPG

112_1254.JPG

112_1255.JPG
 
hmm... don't like the idea of a welded hitch. And would probably be a b*tch to change out. Sure, welds can be strong enough, but its hard to tell if they are. Bolts always have teh same stregnth. Doing something where you could bolt it on would be good.....but if you could cut the welds, it would be better to just put a hitch you know is good on. Should be cheap used....
 
Yeah I don't like the idea of welded either, but that thing would be a bitch to get off. This is my idea for some piece of mind. Make a L bracket from some 1/4" plate and bolt it to the mount and to the bottom of the frame.

I made another picture:D

112_1255.JPG
 
probably not a bad way to go. Maybe consider an S bracket and bolt to the side and bottom of the frame. I can't belive i'm teh only one responding ot this......i think it would be good to get some more opinions before you do anything drastic :)
 
I know I have the post on towrig.com as well and Grant is the only one that has replied LOL. I like the S bracket idea even better.
 
Yah, with the s idea, you get bolts that are in shear and bolts in tension. Best of both worlds. Plus, the bottom little lip on the frame makes me nervous.

Look at all the shackle flip stuff, its all side mount......
 
New picture. Imaging sucks for pic editing LOL, but paint on my work computers wont let me save it as jpeg's so ignore the quality of my drawings:D :haha:

112_1255.JPG
 
doesn't look too bad. Now that i think about it though, those bolts on the bottom of the frame may not be adding anything. You could consider just making a 2 45 degree bends instead of 90degree bends, and skip the bolts on teh bottom.....just another thought!
 
I don't like the idea of a welded on hitch either, but now you just need to make do with what you have. The s-braket looks like a good way to go. Maybe use two on each side. One as far to the rear of the hitch as possible to support the tounge load, and another as far forward on the hitch as possible to help distribute the load across the largest area of frame as possible. Also use a weight distributing setup when towing anything over 5K lbs. This helps take alot of stress off the hitch, and also distributes the load to both axles of the towing vehicle instead of just the rear axle.
 
I have a welded class IV hitch on my 72 Blazer, but the rails of the hitch are almost flush with outside of the frame.

Thus the vertical beam of the frame and the hitch rail are in-line.

I am less than thrilled with the way yours was installed as the load would be applied to the inside edge of the frame lip and in-turn put greater stress on the radius to the vertical beam of the frame.

You may consider adding the plate like a gusset, to shift some of the load to the vertical beam.
 

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