Todd78/87
1/2 ton status
When I turn my key to ON, the needle on my gauge resets to zero like it's suppose to, but when I start the blazer, the needle pegs out to the right past the 60 mark. Like 3 o'clook on the dial. A friend of mine has a truck that did the exact same thing. He changed the sending unit and the gauge and it still did it. He also took the printed circuit off the back and inspected and cleaned it up. I have a new motor in mine with a new sending unit. I talked to a dude at Chevy and the first thing he said was "sending unit" before I could finish,, I told him I have a new one... he said maybe it's an 80 psi sending unit, not a 60. He said it might be stamped on it, but I cant see any numbers on it from what little I can see of it. Really don't want to pull it out. But if that was the case, wouldn't it just be 20 psi off?
Anyway, I have my dash most of the way off, so I decided to take it all the way out and test some voltages out.
I traced the paths on the circuit board to the pins of the harness and took measurements. The gauge has three prongs. With key ON, I get 12.xx volts on one peg and nothing on the other. ( One is ground) When I start it. I get nothing on the one that had 12 and 14 volts on the one that had nothing before.
I grabbed a hot and ground wire out of the dash and held them to the back of the gauge. On the 12 volt side.. the gauge Zero's like it's suppose to. When I touch the 12v wire to the other post,, it pegs out to the right.
Now,,, when I put it all back together, I did the same test with the harness plugged into the circuit board and the gauge in the dash. With the truck running I get 4.xx volts on the original 12v "On" peg. and neg 10v on the one that showed 14v's. There are no resistors on the circuit. But it doesn't seem like that matters, cuz the gauge does the same thing either way, with both sets of voltages. I'm not opposed to putting in an aftermarket gauge, just don't want to if I can fix this by cleaning a contact or replacing a wire or whatever. Anyone figure this one out?
Does anyone have a working stock gauge who is in the posistion to take some voltage measurements for me?
Thanks
Todd 78/87
Alaska Bound
Anyway, I have my dash most of the way off, so I decided to take it all the way out and test some voltages out.
I traced the paths on the circuit board to the pins of the harness and took measurements. The gauge has three prongs. With key ON, I get 12.xx volts on one peg and nothing on the other. ( One is ground) When I start it. I get nothing on the one that had 12 and 14 volts on the one that had nothing before.
I grabbed a hot and ground wire out of the dash and held them to the back of the gauge. On the 12 volt side.. the gauge Zero's like it's suppose to. When I touch the 12v wire to the other post,, it pegs out to the right.
Now,,, when I put it all back together, I did the same test with the harness plugged into the circuit board and the gauge in the dash. With the truck running I get 4.xx volts on the original 12v "On" peg. and neg 10v on the one that showed 14v's. There are no resistors on the circuit. But it doesn't seem like that matters, cuz the gauge does the same thing either way, with both sets of voltages. I'm not opposed to putting in an aftermarket gauge, just don't want to if I can fix this by cleaning a contact or replacing a wire or whatever. Anyone figure this one out?
Does anyone have a working stock gauge who is in the posistion to take some voltage measurements for me?
Thanks
Todd 78/87
Alaska Bound