Stock radio and speakers

[Greg Saldaña]

*There is a link with pictures at the bottom of this post*

Hey everyone, I am in the process of putting everything back together in the old k5, and I bought an original Delco radio for I think $30. It is like the one that was supposed to be in the car when it rolled off the assembly line, I believe. AM/FM Cassette.

The question is what speakers should I buy for the dash and back of the car. When I bought it it had JVC 6x9s in the cargo area, and unknown 6.5 i think in front of the rear seat. Under the dash, they seem to be original speakers. I would like to put in something that sounds good, but also doesn’t break the bank. Looking for advice and if it’ll sound good with original radio. Would I need an amp as well? I no nothing about car audio.

Also could someone explain what all of the buttons on the radio do? Thank you for any input!

Radio and speakers

docs.google.com

 

[Wes Harden]

The 5 buttons are presets for radio stations. You tune to a station and push a button and hold, release. Tune to a new station for each. The station will change to memorized when you push the button.

Speaker choice and placement are subjective. Larger speakers will sound better, and an ample will improve that some more.

I only have the radio amp and a pair of 6.5" in the front doors.
My hearing is so bad anything more is a waste.

 

[Greg Saldaña]

I

The 5 buttons are presets for radio stations. You tune to a station and push a button and hold, release. Tune to a new station for each. The station will change to memorized when you push the button.

Speaker choice and placement are subjective. Larger speakers will sound better, and an ample will improve that some more.

I only have the radio amp and a pair of 6.5" in the front doors.
My hearing is so bad anything more is a waste.

I don’t know why it didn’t occur to me that those were the set station buttons haha. I just don’t know if I should opt for kicker, pioneer, kenwood or any other brands. Thanks for the input!

 

[Chris Ziemer]

I completely redid my stock stereo system. Though I used a retro sound deck. No amp over here, but I did use a retro sound center speaker, which was about $100 and I used.3.5” Hertz side dash speakers.
Sounds OK. Good enough for me for right now. I always want to go more more more, but I’m trying to practice the KISS principal.

 

[SquareUp]

I'm in the middle of ordering mine, I plan on going half hawg on it. I have the V5/V10 91' Blazer which has the 1.5 din. Theirs only a single 1.5 din option which is half as many as I had for led headlights. It is a Chinese brand called joy--- something or other. It's so far down and outta the way that I'm considering going with a simple single din and doing a smart rear view. I'm still researching how well the 2 would interface with each other. As far as the dash speakers, I saw a video

where he tried and halfway succeeded in getting 4" speakers in the corners. From what I understand, the oem speakers have a sunken profile and almost all aftermarket replacements will stick up too far, causing dash pad fitment issues. The oem speakers are on a bracket which acts like a sorta stand. https://www.google.com/search?q=k5+...r=2.86&udm=2#vhid=rYoGpFrPoXVRlM&vssid=mosaic My plan is the mount the speaker to the bottom of that bracket with a makeshift spacer in between. Something like Lauan, maybe dbl stacked if needed. You definitely want the speaker in a tube like housing all the way to where it meats the dash pad. So lauan will get me to the bracket and I'll use a denser foam in between the bracket and the pad. Nothing is straight forward on this damn thing.

At least the rest of the audio will be easier. Which is actually a really interesting topic. Back in my day (I'm 43), we used to plug a coax into every factory hole then stuck a sub or 2 in the back. Well those coax don't do either very well, certainly not bass. U may have seen that cars over the last several years advertising 17 and 21 speaker sound systems. Well that's because they divide the mids and highs up. In the doors and rear deck they'll have 6.5" or 6x9 woofers Memphis (2) Audio MOJO MJM612 6.5" 1400w Competition Car Subwoofers 1 or 2 ohm https://a.co/d/05Tot7EZ which actually create midbass, something coax aren't really capable of; at least not enough to match the treble and lower octaves. To do this you need to do some sound treatment, which kinda transform your doors into a speaker box; well as best as u can really. For all the highs, vocals, ect they surround the passengers at ear level with multiple 3.5" speaks. Usually 2-3 in the dash and another 4, 2 in each of the A and B pillars. This may sound expensive but I just bought 4 really nice infinity 3.5s off Amazon for $99. U can find decently priced stuff for all this. My plan is to have 3.5s in the dash, upper door forward of the window switches and in the B pillar. Then either 1 or 2 of the 6.5" woofers in the bottom of the door. I'm going to turn the cavities between the quarters and panels into speakers boxes with 26ga galvanized sheet metal with a partition separating the front by the rear seat and the back. U calculate airspace in areas like that using foam peanuts. Fill it up then see how many times it takes to fill a 12"x12" box. I'll choose which subs to use there after I've found the volume of those spaces. I'm guessing an 8" by the rear seat and either a 10" or 12" in the backs. Custom door and rear panels will hide mostly everything and keep the cargo area free for whatever. Should sound pretty good too.

 

[SquareUp]

I'm in the middle of ordering mine, I plan on going half hawg on it. I have the V5/V10 91' Blazer which has the 1.5 din. Theirs only a single 1.5 din option which is half as many as I had for led headlights. It is a Chinese brand called joy--- something or other. It's so far down and outta the way that I'm considering going with a simple single din and doing a smart rear view. I'm still researching how well the 2 would interface with each other. As far as the dash speakers, I saw a video

where he tried and halfway succeeded in getting 4" speakers in the corners. From what I understand, the oem speakers have a sunken profile and almost all aftermarket replacements will stick up too far, causing dash pad fitment issues. The oem speakers are on a bracket which acts like a sorta stand. https://www.google.com/search?q=k5+...r=2.86&udm=2#vhid=rYoGpFrPoXVRlM&vssid=mosaic My plan is the mount the speaker to the bottom of that bracket with a makeshift spacer in between. Something like Lauan, maybe dbl stacked if needed. You definitely want the speaker in a tube like housing all the way to where it meats the dash pad. So lauan will get me to the bracket and I'll use a denser foam in between the bracket and the pad. Nothing is straight forward on this damn thing.

At least the rest of the audio will be easier. Which is actually a really interesting topic. Back in my day (I'm 43), we used to plug a coax into every factory hole then stuck a sub or 2 in the back. Well those coax don't do either very well, certainly not bass. U may have seen that cars over the last several years advertising 17 and 21 speaker sound systems. Well that's because they divide the mids and highs up. In the doors and rear deck they'll have 6.5" or 6x9 woofers Memphis (2) Audio MOJO MJM612 6.5" 1400w Competition Car Subwoofers 1 or 2 ohm https://a.co/d/05Tot7EZ which actually create midbass, something coax aren't really capable of; at least not enough to match the treble and lower octaves. To do this you need to do some sound treatment, which kinda transform your doors into a speaker box; well as best as u can really. For all the highs, vocals, ect they surround the passengers at ear level with multiple 3.5" speaks. Usually 2-3 in the dash and another 4, 2 in each of the A and B pillars. This may sound expensive but I just bought 4 really nice infinity 3.5s off Amazon for $99. U can find decently priced stuff for all this. My plan is to have 3.5s in the dash, upper door forward of the window switches and in the B pillar. Then either 1 or 2 of the 6.5" woofers in the bottom of the door. I'm going to turn the cavities between the quarters and panels into speakers boxes with 26ga galvanized sheet metal with a partition separating the front by the rear seat and the back. U calculate airspace in areas like that using foam peanuts. Fill it up then see how many times it takes to fill a 12"x12" box. I'll choose which subs to use there after I've found the volume of those spaces. I'm guessing an 8" by the rear seat and either a 10" or 12" in the backs. Custom door and rear panels will hide mostly everything and keep the cargo area free for whatever. Should sound pretty good too.

I'm in the middle of ordering mine, I plan on going half hawg on it. I have the V5/V10 91' Blazer which has the 1.5 din. Theirs only a single 1.5 din option which is half as many as I had for led headlights. It is a Chinese brand called joy--- something or other. It's so far down and outta the way that I'm considering going with a simple single din and doing a smart rear view. I'm still researching how well the 2 would interface with each other. As far as the dash speakers, I saw a video

where he tried and halfway succeeded in getting 4" speakers in the corners. From what I understand, the oem speakers have a sunken profile and almost all aftermarket replacements will stick up too far, causing dash pad fitment issues. The oem speakers are on a bracket which acts like a sorta stand. https://www.google.com/search?q=k5+...r=2.86&udm=2#vhid=rYoGpFrPoXVRlM&vssid=mosaic My plan is the mount the speaker to the bottom of that bracket with a makeshift spacer in between. Something like Lauan, maybe dbl stacked if needed. You definitely want the speaker in a tube like housing all the way to where it meats the dash pad. So lauan will get me to the bracket and I'll use a denser foam in between the bracket and the pad. Nothing is straight forward on this damn thing.

At least the rest of the audio will be easier. Which is actually a really interesting topic. Back in my day (I'm 43), we used to plug a coax into every factory hole then stuck a sub or 2 in the back. Well those coax don't do either very well, certainly not bass. U may have seen that cars over the last several years advertising 17 and 21 speaker sound systems. Well that's because they divide the mids and highs up. In the doors and rear deck they'll have 6.5" or 6x9 woofers Memphis (2) Audio MOJO MJM612 6.5" 1400w Competition Car Subwoofers 1 or 2 ohm https://a.co/d/05Tot7EZ which actually create midbass, something coax aren't really capable of; at least not enough to match the treble and lower octaves. To do this you need to do some sound treatment, which kinda transform your doors into a speaker box; well as best as u can really. For all the highs, vocals, ect they surround the passengers at ear level with multiple 3.5" speaks. Usually 2-3 in the dash and another 4, 2 in each of the A and B pillars. This may sound expensive but I just bought 4 really nice infinity 3.5s off Amazon for $99. U can find decently priced stuff for all this. My plan is to have 3.5s in the dash, upper door forward of the window switches and in the B pillar. Then either 1 or 2 of the 6.5" woofers in the bottom of the door. I'm going to turn the cavities between the quarters and panels into speakers boxes with 26ga galvanized sheet metal with a partition separating the front by the rear seat and the back. U calculate airspace in areas like that using foam peanuts. Fill it up then see how many times it takes to fill a 12"x12" box. I'll choose which subs to use there after I've found the volume of those spaces. I'm guessing an 8" by the rear seat and either a 10" or 12" in the backs. Custom door and rear panels will hide mostly everything and keep the cargo area free for whatever. Should sound pretty good too.

Infinity - Two Pairs of REF-3032CFX Reference 3.5 Inch Two-way car audio Speakers https://a.co/d/0j8GuTk0

 

[Blue85]

3.5" speakers are just never going to have any low end. The key to making them less miserable is to ensure they seal to the bottom of the dash pad like the factory ones did. You have to do something to separate the forward and reverse wave. If you're not going to do that, you'd be better off keeping the factory speakers and adding tweeters.

 

[SquareUp]

3.5" speakers are just never going to have any low end. The key to making them less miserable is to ensure they seal to the bottom of the dash pad like the factory ones did. You have to do something to separate the forward and reverse wave. If you're not going to do that, you'd be better off keeping the factory speakers and adding tweeters.

I agree, they'd also cause weird reflections with gaps in there or anywhere really where a speaker it's left under a surface with gaps. I would also add that any coax speaker won't have enough low end to bridge the frequency gap to even a sealed 8" sub. A point source or compression driver is capable but the tweeter on a coax limits it's excursion. I'd stay away from the silicone baffles tho. They sound good in theory but the foam rings work better.

 

[CT-BLAZER]

OEM stereo is sub par.....

Boston Acoustic speakers, Denon head, 2 Denon amps... Ported Sub in trunk..

Didn't get far on Blazer...have abused Mac head.... Saw a subwoofers that used the shell of 92+ blazer....planned on Boston Acoustic speakers on dash and in rear panels.

Have seen a budget stereo...... A complete Bose system taken out of a Corvette and got into a van.....

 

[Coyy]

*There is a link with pictures at the bottom of this post*

Hey everyone, I am in the process of putting everything back together in the old k5, and I bought an original Delco radio for I think $30. It is like the one that was supposed to be in the car when it rolled off the assembly line, I believe. AM/FM Cassette.

The question is what speakers should I buy for the dash and back of the car. When I bought it it had JVC 6x9s in the cargo area, and unknown 6.5 i think in front of the rear seat. Under the dash, they seem to be original speakers. I would like to put in something that sounds good, but also doesn’t break the bank. Looking for advice and if it’ll sound good with original radio. Would I need an amp as well? I no nothing about car audio.

Also could someone explain what all of the buttons on the radio do? To cut down on time, I'll play on the website of Sector777 Casino. Thank you for any input!

Radio and speakers

docs.google.com

Hi. Choose speakers with high sensitivity and good reviews for budget sound systems. Then install and test the original radio before deciding if you need an amplifier.