Stock suspension, 33-34" Swampers...what needs to be cut or trimmed?

[AJMBLAZER]

I've been watching Craigslist lately and I have it in my mind to make The Blazer fit 33x12.5R15's or 16's on the stock suspension or a rebuilt stock suspension. I don't want to lift it because it won't fit in my garage then and I frankly like the way it sits and drives now.

I'm contemplating a few options on tire choices:

-285/75R16's (tall 33x11.25ishR16) on my 16x8's with 4" of BS
-305/70R16's (33x12.5R16's) or 33x12.5R16's on the same rims
-33x12.5R15's on some 15x8's, perhaps another set of GM 15x8 Rally wheels with 4" of backspacing.
-Perhaps a 34x12.5R15 TrXus MT or a 33x13.5-15 LTB.

I was already thinking about cutting off the front and rear fangs and then the rear of the front wheel wells like I did with Big Ugly and many on here have done.

I figure the 285's would fit fine, probably even stock.
Only thing I'm really wondering about is the 33x12.5's tend to run tall in the Swampers I'm considering (TSL, TSL Radial, SSR, etc) and there's even a set of 34x12.5R15 TrXus MT's on 6 lug wheels on the local CL right now.

So would a true 33" x 12.5" wide tire give me issues beyond the usual trimming and cutting? Hitting the top of the fenders while flexed, spring contact while turning, anything else...whatever?
I figure I made narrow 38's fit on Big Ugly with 1" of front lift and cutting, I can make 33's fit.

 

[Fred_M1010]

I would ditch the 16x8" wheels.
On my dodge I use 285/75R16 with the stock 6.5" wheels from my K30 (Offset: +15mm).
Narrow wheels (read: postive offset) helps alot with clearance issues.

But if I'm not mistaken, you already know this

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Eh, I figure my wheels are the same dimensions as the stock 15x8 Rally wheels only 1" taller. Anything that SHOULD fit with the 15x8's SHOULD fit with the 16x8's I have.

 

[Fred_M1010]

You're probably right, I'm just saying a 6.5" wheel would give even better clearance.
As an 8" wide wheel with 4" BS translates to an offset of about -15mm

So the center of my tires comes more than one inch more inwards.
I hope that made sense...

 

[blazinzuk]

only thing I have to say is put the wheels and tires on first you will have to trim alot less than you think

 

[chalet2506]

I thought you put some serious effort into buying that truck? Stick with 32's and skip the trimming. Either that or get a 1" body lift and some zero rates. Skip the trimming either way.

 

[KansasTwister]

putting bigger wheels/tires will lift the truck as well man. Then more if you lift the truck itself. Id stick with a 32 if it has to be parked inside.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

I have about 3" of clearance now. The overall plan is rebuild the stock suspension so it's OEM new height and a set of 33's.

I'm not going to wheel it or build it for hard stuff but I am going to make it a bit more capable.

Also not a fan of the front and rear fangs. Mud traps.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

You're probably right, I'm just saying a 6.5" wheel would give even better clearance.
As an 8" wide wheel with 4" BS translates to an offset of about -15mm

So the center of my tires comes more than one inch more inwards.
I hope that made sense...

I get what you are saying and believe me, understand.

Yeah but I think going to the narrower wheel might put the tires into the suspension more on hard turns and stuff?

 

[TREA18]

I agree with the zero rates. I did level my back with blocks but zero rates and moving that front axle makes a huge difference and I'm using 33" with lots of room.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

I'd consider the zero rates after I got new springs, at least in the rear. The passenger side sits about 1" lower than the d-side. 200k miles and all.

 

[KirsL]

My thinking on this is, fix or replace what you need to on the suspension first. That way you know your clearance isn't going to change when you put the different tires on. Also means you will only have to trim once and can do the minimum amount of it too.

 

[496truck]

Well, to answer your original question, I only had to trim the rear of the fenders to fit 33x12.5R15. Actually, when I had them on stock (alloy 15x7 I think) wheels and still had the sway bar they didn't hit the fenders at all. But removing the sway bar and putting the tires on 15x8s they started to hit, again only at the rear of the fender. I didn't trim the front fangs untill I installed the new bumper. No trimming on the rear quarters.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Thanks man. Sounds like what I am kinda thinking. The sway bar will probably get disco's and kept for road use.
Semi-wondering if any of the spring making shops would make a stockish front pack that relocated the axle forward an inch without charging an arm and a leg...

I'm currently thinking 285's as I like the height but also the tires under the fenders. Could reuse my 16x8's, mount them myself, and since most are load range D they'd be fine for driving use.

However if I find a deal on something else all options are considered.

 

[jms]

...
Semi-wondering if any of the spring making shops would make a stockish front pack that relocated the axle forward an inch ....

...which means you'd have to shorten your draglink...

 

[USSkoval]

Semi-wondering if any of the spring making shops would make a stockish front pack that relocated the axle forward an inch without charging an arm and a leg...

Drill the perches instead maybe?

 

[dhcomp]

I'm running 33x12.50's on 10" wide wheels currently.

I am running 1" zero rate's front and rear, and had to trim my fender fangs before i could even get out of the driveway. My wheel width hurts me, but you will have clearance issues when turning.

I wouldn't go up to 34's without planning to modify more.

I say run the 33's on whatever rims you want, add 1" add a leaf's, and trim as necessary.

 

[muddermilitia]

To answer the original question: I had no lift and 35x12.5R15 trxus mts on my 89 k5 back in the day. No trimming needed in the back and the front only needed a little trimming to the rear of the wheel well. Still had the sway bar connected and when I took it wheeling it would rub the inner fenders when you stuffed a tire, but nothing that would cause any damage

Here are some pics http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2186902/2 Man I miss driving that truck on the street

 

[Drey]

I know its not the tire your looking for but you think 33x10.5s would fit without anything at all?

 

[AJMBLAZER]

...which means you'd have to shorten your draglink...

Yep. Half the distance forward for each drag link end. Looked into it for Big Ugly but never got to it.

Drill the perches instead maybe?

Eh. Maybe. Might get new springs entirely...but dunno.

I'm running 33x12.50's on 10" wide wheels currently.

I am running 1" zero rate's front and rear, and had to trim my fender fangs before i could even get out of the driveway. My wheel width hurts me, but you will have clearance issues when turning.

I wouldn't go up to 34's without planning to modify more.

I say run the 33's on whatever rims you want, add 1" add a leaf's, and trim as necessary.

This is kinda why I don't want to go with wider tires...but we'll see.

To answer the original question: I had no lift and 35x12.5R15 trxus mts on my 89 k5 back in the day. No trimming needed in the back and the front only needed a little trimming to the rear of the wheel well. Still had the sway bar connected and when I took it wheeling it would rub the inner fenders when you stuffed a tire, but nothing that would cause any damage

Here are some pics http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2186902/2 Man I miss driving that truck on the street

Yeah, yours and another I knew of in person make me wonder...but the 3.73's throw a monkey wrench in there.

I know its not the tire your looking for but you think 33x10.5s would fit without anything at all?

Yes. That'd basically be 1" taller than what I have and there would be plenty of room. I kick myself for not buying the 285/75R16's when I got these tires I have now last year. I was worried they wouldn't fit and would suck up the power but yeah...it'd be fine.