Straight axle conversion 94 sub

[retroblazer]

I'm in the process of installing a 78-79 F250 D-44, using ORU's kit. What they don't tell you is that you're on your own on how to get the shift linkage to work. The linkage extends from the trans to the driver's side frame rail. The rear spring bracket covers the hole where the linkage normally goes. My question to anyone that has done this is, how did you modify the shift linkage or bracket to work?

 

[sled_dog]

PM Willyswanter, he runs a 96 Crew Cab sitting on the ORU SFA kit. And get pictures when you are done /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[j20m715]

If I understand your question right, you will have to drill that hole for the shifter linkage.
Or will it interfere with the spring shackle ?

Willyswanter (jason) is a 96 so he has a cable for the trans linkage.

I am in the process of doing the same on a 99 tahoe, but it is also a cable.

Hope this helps.
Ray

 

[retroblazer]

Exactly, the hole is covered by the rear spring bracket. I was debating whether or not to cut away one of the support brackets, drill the hole, then add back some reinforcement. I'm just hoping to find someone that had done it first. I know that's the easy way, but I'm not adverse to doing things the easy way, other than the fact that this truck is outside in my driveway where the current temp. is in the freezing zone.

 

[sled_dog]

fill out your profile boss, we like to get info on each other, helps us locate people to help and wheel with.

 

[retroblazer]

Done, the sub is under construction, details later.

 

[sled_dog]

ahhh your Watson's friend ha, I see this by the sick blazer in your profile.

 

[bryguy00b]

couldnt you rig up a B&M type shifter or something to work in place of the linkage?

 

[retroblazer]

I could do a B&M or a Winters,as I have on the race truck, but I think I can make the stock column shift work. I've been slowed by travel and the fact that I'm doing stuff that I posponed before the race, like raking leaves and other bs. I'll put up pictures soon.

 

[retroblazer]

I'm back workin' on the Sub. I have to have it ready to tow my race blazer to the San Felipe 250 on Feb 27th. I have modified the bracket by drilling a hole with a Unibit stepped drill bit. After making a paper templet to transfer the hole on the frame to the bracket, I drilled a small pilot hole with a 1/4" drill bit, then used the Unibit to open the hole to the size of the shift linkage plastic bushing, approx. 7/8". The path of the shift linkage arm required that I trim the middle reinforcement web on the spring hanger to approx. 1/3 of its original lenth. I used a cut-off wheel, then finished with a flex. sanding disk.

 

[89K1500Chevy]

Sounds good man if you can get some pics up that would be a good guide for ppl doing the same thing. Id love to have do a sfa swap on my truck but im not going to anytime soon im going to pimp the IFS just b/c it gets no respect plus id rather throw a like a 5 or 6in susp lift on it. and Design some more armor for it b/c i needs it i like driving up on cars and rocks flexin it out.

 

[retroblazer]

I would have liked nothing more but to make the ifs work well and be strong enough to endure some serious prerunning in Baja, but the cost is a killer. The production racers who have tried to make it work have spent serious money and time, both of which I lack, to get the stuff to work. For me although the conv. isn't cheap, it's still cheaper than just replacing the stock ifs stuff. To start, the 1500 series front diff. is tiny. A 7 1/2 ring gear is just the start of the weak stuff. You want good cv's, pet the pony and price the 930's and matchin axles. Sure, you can have fun busting stock stuff, but when you're like me and you're a couple of thousand miles from home and the stock stuff has a 150k miles on it, then a fresh D44 in front doesn't look too bad.

 

[linksvu]

I would have liked nothing more but to make the ifs work well and be strong enough to endure some serious prerunning in Baja, but the cost is a killer. The production racers who have tried to make it work have spent serious money and time, both of which I lack, to get the stuff to work. For me although the conv. isn't cheap, it's still cheaper than just replacing the stock ifs stuff. To start, the 1500 series front diff. is tiny. A 7 1/2 ring gear is just the start of the weak stuff. You want good cv's, pet the pony and price the 930's and matchin axles. Sure, you can have fun busting stock stuff, but when you're like me and you're a couple of thousand miles from home and the stock stuff has a 150k miles on it, then a fresh D44 in front doesn't look too bad.

Any pictures of the finished product????