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Stuck bolt...

jonrpick

jonrpick

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Hey, when I was pulling all of the interior out of the K5, I snapped the head off of the bolt that holds the the driver's seatbelt to the floor (the end that the belt plugs into actually).

I just paid too much for a bolt extractor from Sears that didn't work, and also used some propane heat around the bolt hoping to loosen it.

Anyone got any cool tricks to get this thing out??? It needs to be removed and replaced--IF I want to have a seatbelt... :rolleyes: :doah:
 
Those things are MUTHAS ... IIRC, it's a fine-thread metric bolt.

Best bet is to weld a nut onto the end and get it out that way. This also exposes it to considerable heat/cool cycles which should help break it loose.

In theory you could drill it out and get it out with an EZ-out (aka extractor) but I've only ever broken drill bits which are really hard to drill through.

How much, if any, of the bolt shaft is accessible (i.e. above flush)? Enough to get a vise-grip on? If there's a lot, you could grind or file opposite sides flat to put a wrench on.

And do get some penetrating oil and soak the bastard overnight.

Can you tell I've done this 'fore? :doah:

-- A
 
dremu said:
Those things are MUTHAS ... IIRC, it's a fine-thread metric bolt.

Best bet is to weld a nut onto the end and get it out that way. This also exposes it to considerable heat/cool cycles which should help break it loose.

In theory you could drill it out and get it out with an EZ-out (aka extractor) but I've only ever broken drill bits which are really hard to drill through.

How much, if any, of the bolt shaft is accessible (i.e. above flush)? Enough to get a vise-grip on? If there's a lot, you could grind or file opposite sides flat to put a wrench on.

And do get some penetrating oil and soak the bastard overnight.

Can you tell I've done this 'fore? :doah:

-- A
Click to expand...

Hmm.... Well it broke off just above the sheet metal, so getting pliers on it is out of the question.

Which end would you weld to? There's like 3/4" of it sticking through the floor and that nut/deal that's welded under the sheet metal. It's *possible* that I could grind two sides flat and trying turning it from the underside, although the exhaust is sort of in the way.

Would heating it more and letting it cool a few times with the torch be a step in the right direction?
 
cbbr said:
That and a bunch of PB blaster wouldn't hurt.
Click to expand...

I keep hearing about that stuff but haven't ever bought it... Good stuff, eh?

Where do I get it? Any Advance Auto / Auto Zone / Napa type stores?
 
You got some good ideas here, the last one I had that was really really rusted on good (soaked multiple times and would not come lose, broke 2 really big breaker bars, etc) we finally got it lose by heating it up with mapp/prop (one on each side) and beating it with a bf hammer until we could get it lose.
 
Thanks for all the responses guys... :laugh:

I'll pick up some PB tomorrow when I'm out looking at a new transfer case.
 
I just had this problem on a K10. As said, soak it with PB blaster a couple of times and let it sit and do its thing. You should be able to get the remaining shank of the bolt from underneath your K5. Get a pair of vice grips on it, or weld a nut to it and back it out that way.

Kris
 
PB blaster, Mapp gas, and Vise grips from the bottom worked good for me. Heat it as hot as you can then spray the PB on it to cool it quick. Then heat it again and try to remove it, stop occasionally to spray it. You may even have to turn it out a little, spray it then turn it in some, spray it, turn it out, repeat until it is out. Don't break that end off.

Mapp gas works alot better than propane. It's much hotter.

Mike
 
You might actually be able to get it out from the bottom, as long as the portion that broke off is all threads. IIRC there is an unthreaded portion just below the bolt head, and obviously that wouldn't thread through.

I'd agree with welding a nut to it, maybe a nut small enough that you can weld it directly to the center of the bolt, and if that isn't strong enough, weld a larger one on top of it, which will help clear the floor and might be easier to get a good weld on, or at least a larger nut that you can weld on the inside.
 
dyeager535 said:
You might actually be able to get it out from the bottom, as long as the portion that broke off is all threads. IIRC there is an unthreaded portion just below the bolt head, and obviously that wouldn't thread through.

I'd agree with welding a nut to it, maybe a nut small enough that you can weld it directly to the center of the bolt, and if that isn't strong enough, weld a larger one on top of it, which will help clear the floor and might be easier to get a good weld on, or at least a larger nut that you can weld on the inside.
Click to expand...

Another idea... threading two thinner nuts on, and locking them against one another so I have something to get a wrench on. Maybe locktiting it on there. I don't have a welder yet, and if I did, I'd be a total n00b about it.
 
That would work, but I would heat it and spray the PB blaster from the top and clean the threads that you are going to double nut with brake cleaner or something.
 
If it's stuck that good, I doubt loc-tite is going to hold up on the nuts as you mention. I think I see what you are saying, put the two nuts on, use the outer one to keep the inner in place, and wrench on the inner. Jam nuts are the thinner nuts you'd want for something like this, but welding a nut on is the way to go I think. I don't think the jam nut idea will work well, besides the fact you might need a thinner than normal wrench to fit only on the one you want to turn, depending on how much room you have to work with.

Weldings the proven method, other ways MIGHT work, but for the time/effort if they don't work, if you've got access to a welder, I'd go that way unless you are trying to save the floor paint or carpet from heat.
 
dyeager535 said:
If it's stuck that good, I doubt loc-tite is going to hold up on the nuts as you mention. I think I see what you are saying, put the two nuts on, use the outer one to keep the inner in place, and wrench on the inner. Jam nuts are the thinner nuts you'd want for something like this, but welding a nut on is the way to go I think. I don't think the jam nut idea will work well, besides the fact you might need a thinner than normal wrench to fit only on the one you want to turn, depending on how much room you have to work with.

Weldings the proven method, other ways MIGHT work, but for the time/effort if they don't work, if you've got access to a welder, I'd go that way unless you are trying to save the floor paint or carpet from heat.
Click to expand...

Then I'll have to figure out a way to weld it... I have stripped the rubber flooring and insulation out, and thrown it all away. I need to get a welder and learn to MIG so I can patch up the rear floor where it's rusted through anyway.

Luckily I'm not on a specific time-table. The rear axle is disassembled, the t-case is shot, the front wheel bearings need replacing, and the engine runs like crud and overheats. :(:crazy:

I got time to figure it out, LOL... But I will start shopping for a MIG welder and get some scrap metal to practice with.
 
You'd think broken bolts was a common occurrence:rolleyes::rolleyes:

:haha::haha::haha::haha:


Spray both sides of the bolt with PB Blaster or Kroil. Spray enough on the top side so it pools around the bolt. Then from underneath heat the "nut deal." Mapp gas is better than propane. Try to heat just the nut and not the bolt. It idea is to get just the nut to expand and break loose the rust. The pool of penetrant will seep in as the nut expands. Repeating as well as letting it soak for long times helps. You do end up heating both and burning up penetrant but it helps to keep the theory in mind:crazy:
 
2 cents here, Matco makes a bit for your air hammer, and thats not a torq. its a torq. P or something. It is fatter than the standard torq head bolt. If you get those 2 things you will never have to fight it again.
I punched one down about a 1/2 inch into the floor with heat, an impact driver-18" crest wrench and slegde, bad language and a few other immature activies, got those 2 tools and never had any problems with any seat belt bolts or any allen, torq., phillips, flat, etc. since. That bit is bad to the bone, the air hammer knocks out lock tight, rust, you name it, loose and the bolts will turn out like pudding pie.
 
JPMSK5 said:
2 cents here, Matco makes a bit for your air hammer, and thats not a torq. its a torq. P or something. It is fatter than the standard torq head bolt. If you get those 2 things you will never have to fight it again.
I punched one down about a 1/2 inch into the floor with heat, an impact driver-18" crest wrench and slegde, bad language and a few other immature activies, got those 2 tools and never had any problems with any seat belt bolts or any allen, torq., phillips, flat, etc. since. That bit is bad to the bone, the air hammer knocks out lock tight, rust, you name it, loose and the bolts will turn out like pudding pie.
Click to expand...

I don't understand... how does it grab the bolt if the head is broken off?
 
oops! Attention to detail!! That method is so that doesnt happen. Then your back to the jam nut the bottom, PB blaster Part# PB16, (Wal-Mart, NAPA, OReillys), impact and deep well socket, heat it up to break the lock tight, break it loose and thread it back out the top, most of the time a broken head will damage the threads if you try to screw it out the bottom. Once you get the bolt loose and some sticking out the top, Sears has some Craftman exstrators that go around the outside of the bolt, no drilling down the middle of the bolt. Or just use the good old Vise Grips.
 
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