Stuck bolt...

[blazin_blazer]

i use pb ..best that i can find locally
i worked in an extraction plant in indiana(rose acres) putting in new steam lines..they stocked kroil in orange can, i was taking apart a pipe flange and had some tough nuts soaked them with pb i had overnite...still wouldnt budge...got some of their kroil...soaked them and an hr. later they came right off...cant find the stuff around here...most peep never heard of it. its badazz!

 

[cbbr]

Look for Kroil at nut/bolt places. I don't remember seeing it at the big box stores.

 

[JBo214]

I believe the reasons those bolts break is due to the horrific amount of Loctite that is applied to them from the factory.

I have had success using these from the bottom. They are for gripping stripped out bolt heads, but i use them on studs and whatever else they may be handy for. You tap them on and then when you turn counterclockwise (loosey) they dig in. You can do that from the bottom and if some bolt appears at the top, put it on that part and continue the extraction from the top. MAPP will help melt out the loctite.

You would have a good investment in these. I would recomend the deep version though. If no luck, maybe I can swing by and help out. May be after the holidays though (out of town).

 

[jonrpick]

I believe the reasons those bolts break is due to the horrific amount of Loctite that is applied to them from the factory.

I have had success using these from the bottom. They are for gripping stripped out bolt heads, but i use them on studs and whatever else they may be handy for. You tap them on and then when you turn counterclockwise (loosey) they dig in. You can do that from the bottom and if some bolt appears at the top, put it on that part and continue the extraction from the top. MAPP will help melt out the loctite.

You would have a good investment in these. I would recomend the deep version though. If no luck, maybe I can swing by and help out. May be after the holidays though (out of town).

Thanks Jason...

I have a set of those... cheaper ones, but I'll try it. I think my cheap little torch is for propane only, not mapp although I think any heat would be better than no heat.

I'll see if I can find the bolt extractors I have...if not I'll wait and get a good set like you're talking about from Sears.

I'll let you know how it goes. I may the assistance

 

[cbbr]

So, just to recap -

1 broken bolt head - free
3 sets of tools from Sears - $250
Welding equipment, lessons, wire - $350

Seatbelts - priceless

 

[jonrpick]

So, just to recap -

1 broken bolt head - free
3 sets of tools from Sears - $250
Welding equipment, lessons, wire - $350

Seatbelts - priceless

You've pretty much just summed up every single repair on my truck...

 

[dyeager535]

Question, if you use those "extractors" from the bottom, won't that mess the threads up, messing the threads up in the "nut" on the body when you pull them through?

Just checking, would seem possible to trade one problem for another, on a piece that really needs thread strength.

 

[dhcomp]

Question, if you use those "extractors" from the bottom, won't that mess the threads up, messing the threads up in the "nut" on the body when you pull them through?

Just checking, would seem possible to trade one problem for another, on a piece that really needs thread strength.

Probably a good point, but if you could get it moving enough to back it out the top enough to grab onto it....you could then cut the broken part off below the floor, then remove from the top.

Thread a couple nuts on the threads before u use the extarctor or cut it ,so after you can take the nut off, which will help straighten out hte threads.

 

[jonrpick]

Probably a good point, but if you could get it moving enough to back it out the top enough to grab onto it....you could then cut the broken part off below the floor, then remove from the top.

Thread a couple nuts on the threads before u use the extarctor or cut it ,so after you can take the nut off, which will help straighten out hte threads.

The head of the bolt was completely sheared off, but I'd still tried to turn it clockwise from underneath (same as counter-clockwise from the top) once I'd loosened it up a bit.

 

[UPS]

I guess I was a little to slow typing.^^
Those extractors used from the bottom will remove the broken bolt from the bottom. If they are used from the top they will remove the bolt from the top. You have to screw the bolt clockwise from the bottom to remove it from the top (screw it in). I don't think those will work that way.

Mike

 

[drop the hammer]

P.B. Blaster is the sole reasong I was able to do my tranny swap. I went through 2 industial sized cans soaked ever nut and bolt I encountered so they would come out with out too much of a fight. As said before heat it, (propane, map gas etc.) and P.B. Blaster work great, but one tool that hasn't been mentioned if push comes to shove is a manual impact. The come in either 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive, and with a flat head looking chisel attachment and a good heavy dead blow hammer, they are VERY effective at backing out stuborn remains of snapped bolts. Use them all the time at work and sh*t hits the fan.

 

[Dweller99]

I believe the reasons those bolts break is due to the horrific amount of Loctite that is applied to them from the factory.

I have had success using these from the bottom. They are for gripping stripped out bolt heads, but i use them on studs and whatever else they may be handy for. You tap them on and then when you turn counterclockwise (loosey) they dig in. You can do that from the bottom and if some bolt appears at the top, put it on that part and continue the extraction from the top. MAPP will help melt out the loctite.

You would have a good investment in these. I would recomend the deep version though. If no luck, maybe I can swing by and help out. May be after the holidays though (out of town).

Sears is having a 50% off sale on a lot of stuff that ends today. I picked up a 5 piece set of these yesterday for $10. I have not had an opportunity to use them but for $10 if I get one rounded bolt off with it then its worth it to me

 

[jonrpick]

I guess I was a little to slow typing.^^
Those extractors used from the bottom will remove the broken bolt from the bottom. If they are used from the top they will remove the bolt from the top. You have to screw the bolt clockwise from the bottom to remove it from the top (screw it in). I don't think those will work that way.

Mike

Yeah, I know.... I was gonna get it moving from the bottom to loosen it, then go the other way with a set of pliers or something to get it out through the top.

 

[jonrpick]

Well I picked up some PB Blaster for the first time today... the bolt, as well as a rounded off stuck brake line, are both getting their first soaking with the stuff. I doused the floor bolt good. I'll repeat for a couple of days as it evaporates/soaks in, then maybe hit it with the torch on Saturday or Sunday.

I also found my bolt extractors. Can't remember if they're Craftsman or not, (didn't have time to check) I was just happy I found 'em. I know they're strong enough to snap the head off the bolt that holds the TV cable into the 700R4...ask me how I know.

 

[JPMSK5]

I believe the reasons those bolts break is due to the horrific amount of Loctite that is applied to them from the factory.

I have had success using these from the bottom. They are for gripping stripped out bolt heads, but i use them on studs and whatever else they may be handy for. You tap them on and then when you turn counterclockwise (loosey) they dig in. You can do that from the bottom and if some bolt appears at the top, put it on that part and continue the extraction from the top. MAPP will help melt out the loctite.

You would have a good investment in these. I would recomend the deep version though. If no luck, maybe I can swing by and help out. May be after the holidays though (out of town).

Yep that is what I was talking about from Sears. You have to buy 2 sets to fill the case like that one though. One set comes with the case and the other set fills the empty spaces in the case. Craftman great for doing things like that. Buy a 1/2 to 1" crowsfeet set and have to buy 15/16" to finish the set.

 

[Blue85]

I'm just throwing this in since it hasn't been said yet. What about just cutting out the whole bolt/nut and starting over? You could use thick washers top and bottom to add strength (if you damage whatever gives it strength now) and use a standard bolt and nut to hold the seatbelt in, but double-nutted with locktite. The rust holding it in is likely worst at the very bottom. If you take a grinder underneath and cut most of the nut away, the bolt may spin out from the top using one of the methods already mentioned.

 

[jonrpick]

I'm just throwing this in since it hasn't been said yet. What about just cutting out the whole bolt/nut and starting over? You could use thick washers top and bottom to add strength (if you damage whatever gives it strength now) and use a standard bolt and nut to hold the seatbelt in, but double-nutted with locktite. The rust holding it in is likely worst at the very bottom. If you take a grinder underneath and cut most of the nut away, the bolt may spin out from the top using one of the methods already mentioned.

I do actually need to clean out the undercoating in that area and inspect for rust... there's bits and pieces of it under there...

 

[fireplug]

I'm just throwing this in since it hasn't been said yet. What about just cutting out the whole bolt/nut and starting over? You could use thick washers top and bottom to add strength (if you damage whatever gives it strength now) and use a standard bolt and nut to hold the seatbelt in, but double-nutted with locktite. The rust holding it in is likely worst at the very bottom. If you take a grinder underneath and cut most of the nut away, the bolt may spin out from the top using one of the methods already mentioned.

100% agreement here. Save yourself the aggravation and if you insist on 'twisting' it out definitely out the bottom or clean the threads.