CK5
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stuck gauge

nope ran out of that stuff but as soon as i can afford i will get a big tube of it
 
If the gas gauge worked before you swapped to EFI I would focus your attention back at the tank, whatever you touched specifically. Not likely the issue is at the cluster or anywhere forward of the tank unless you messed with it.
ya it stopped after about 7 days, im leaning towards ground issue cause when i was trying to see if it was grounding from frame to body certain parts did and certain parts didn't. i have to stop cause it started to rian a little but is clearing now.will finish grounding and go from there.
 
well i was was double checking the sending unit hooked volt meter to it to read ohm output and it fluctuates by 10 degrees so im going to have to replace the darn thing. its still under warranty so i just have to figure out how rock auto does there returns. Has anyone had to return stuff to them? Is it a pain?
 
well i was was double checking the sending unit hooked volt meter to it to read ohm output and it fluctuates by 10 degrees so im going to have to replace the darn thing. its still under warranty so i just have to figure out how rock auto does there returns. Has anyone had to return stuff to them? Is it a pain?

Maybe that's your problem, you're using a volt meter to check resistance (units are ohms) and you have it set to read the temperature in degrees. :rotfl:

In all seriousness though, while you have the multimeter attached to read the resistance of the sending unit, try wiggling the wires that go from the connector to tank and also the ground wire that goes to the tank to see if the ohm reading changes. It'd be better if you had an analog meter since they respond faster, or if your meter has an audible continuity tester.
 
voltmeter reads ohms, its a decent meter not cheap one, 10 units ,degrees, fluctuates 10 numbers up and down and i thought of the jiggling of the wires and no change
 
voltmeter reads ohms, its a decent meter not cheap one, 10 units ,degrees, fluctuates 10 numbers up and down and i thought of the jiggling of the wires and no change
Just being a smartass. A multimeter (which is what you have) reads volts, ohms and possibly capacitance and inductance, depending on what you have it set to measure. When set to read voltage it's a voltmeter and when set to reads resistance it's an ohmmeter.
And again being a smartass, but you can't use a voltmeter to measure ohms unless you know the currrent in the circuit and do a calculation. :thumb:
 
ya i know funny thing is when i went to the store it started working like it saposed to.
I HATE WHEN IT WORKS WHEN IT WANTS TO!!!
 
So before you go through the trouble of removing the sender again, I'd do the test like I mentioned before to check the sender. Drain the tank using the fuel pump and drain it out the fuel filter, keeping an eye on the ohm reading on your multimeter.
 
ok will do it this weekend, cant replace sender for a couple weeks anyway
 
I just thought of this. When I replaced my sending unit a couple months ago, i think it was a spectra, while inspecting it to see if it was ready to install I noticed the little wiper arm wasnt touching the resistance winding. I had to bend it in alittle so it made good contact. I wonder if yours is barely touching? That would make it read erratically if at all...
 
That is a good point I'll have to check it,
Glad I mad an access panel it would be a pain to drop the tank
 
Yeah, that's basically what fails in the sending units - the wiper. If you have to drop the tank, it might not be worth the gamble. If you read a reasonable resistance through the sender, it must be touching. Without dropping the tank, all you can do is add or take away fuel and see if the resistance changes as it should. You can also pull the cluster and check for that same resistance on that pin of the cluster connector. That verifies the wiring through the truck. Square body cluster flex circuits are notorious for losing good contact.
 

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