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Stud Remover, anyone have one?

sled_dog

sled_dog

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Like it? I think I need one. Trying to get the stock style studs out of my knuckles on the Dana 60 and I can't seem to do it. Thread the nuts on, jam them against each other and wrench on the lower one and they both just turn right off without budging the stud. Thinking a stud remover will be the only way it is going to happen. So again, anyone?

I mean one like this:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=SEARS&pid=00904458000

If so, where did you get yours? I would order that one but I need it for Saturday and the shipping looks like it sucks from Sears.com so I can't chance not getting it. Seems to be something Sears stores do not stock. Damn CrapOn guy that comes to school doesn't have a truck(just some factory rep) so I can't buy it off him.
 
I have this Snap-on one.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1247&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

This stud remover/installer works perfect everytime. You can buy just the holder and whatever size collet you need for a particular job cheap enough but i don't think you will get it in time like you said about sears. May be worth a shot though if you call Snap-on and place the order and ask for it quickly.
 
I had two studs stuck in my knuckles. Got mine from NAPA for twice that price but it needed to be done that day. Put it on short breaker bar and it worked like a charm.
 
I bought my kit from Mac tools it works great about 150.00

Sears does make one of those one size fits all thingers, Last time I used it, it worked good(just not in any tight spots)
 
looks like a really nice set, I should get it but can't justify the cost for this one job. Damn...
 
i have an older snap-on that is similar to the craftsman one linked. the one i have has 2 wedges for different size studs.
i love it and use it all the time. better and easier than double nutting it and vise grips.
 
yeah my studs are WAY too stuck for vice grips and like I said, double nut didn't work. Short of welding a nut on a stud remover is all tahts gonna get it done I think. I didn't think about tacking a nut on until just now though... hmm think I will do that and get the Craftsman one for later use.
 
I have one like that... forget if its craftsman or not. In any case, for removing studs it works great. I only use it if double-nutting won't work though, mainly because the remover sometimes destroys the stud in the process.

j
 
Here's a little trick that helps with stubborn studs or bolts that you can't get out. Try heating the area slightly then use beeswax and tap on the end of the stud then try to remove it once it cools down a bit. The beeswax soaks into the threads and the tapping on the end helps to jar the threads loose. Has worked many times for me in the past.
 
yeah we do that when disassembling motors at school. All the A/O torches in the shop have a candle on the carts. I'd prefer not to heat my knuckles though. They are the Ford knuckles which are notoriouslly weak(at least in comparison to Chevy ones) in that exact area, so I just don't care to put heat to them.
 
first off, you don't need to get them very hot, just warm enough to melt the beeswax into the threads. Also a candle is not what i mean, go to the store and find beeswax, it is 100% pure bee wax and works much better than a candle will with other things in the candle.
 
I have the Craftsman stud remover, and it has worked every time a double nut wouldn't. It does marr/dig into the surface though, so I would recommend replacing the stud after using it. I wouldn't use it for installing studs either. It looks like the snap-on one will install also, but that is a lot of coin!

Joshua
 
I've got the Craftsman, the very one you linked to. Worked good for me at the trans shop; haven't had a chance to use it at home (yet...). As noted already, it does have a tendency to booger-up the stud if it's really stuck.

For the really stubborn studs in transmission cases, we'd take the torch and heat the exposed part of the stud (keeping the heat away from the case) until the top half of the exposed part was cherry. Kill the heat and let it cool for a couple minutes, then crank it out with the remover (careful, it's still HOT! Learned that one the almost-hard way...)
 
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