Stud Shearing Issue

[Brady Foster]

Hey y'all, about three years ago my dad @Brandon Foster and I finally "finished" our restomod project (build thread here). Of course what project is ever actually finished . But over those last three years I've daily driven it most of the time. Around spring of 2023 I had an entire stud shear off (only going about 40mph) and since then frequently checked the lugs to ensure they were tight every couple trips around town. Often the lugs would be a decent bit out of spec and the front studs would be incredibly hot to the touch. Finally about a week or two ago I was checking the lugs again after a quick drive and completely sheared a stud off. After taking off the wheel and rotor the studs looked completely rusted where the rim sits against the rotor and grooved out like they've been worn down over time. (see the attached picture below). So what do yall think the problem could be? The rims are the original ones from before the restoration.


If this was already a thread I apologize, I couldn't find another one covering a similar issue.

 

[Barrman]

You write that the wheels are the original ones from before the restoration. Does that mean original GM wheels?

Are the studs the proper size for the wheels? As in when you put the wheel on is there just a little wiggle without the lug nuts or a bunch?

Do the lug nuts have the conical shape and do they go about half way into the lug hole on the wheels?

This brings up the entire lug centric versus hub centric wheel mounting method argument. GM used lug centric which means the conical lug nuts were supposed to self center the wheel between them and keep it from moving in any direction. My first thought was you have the wrong lug nuts for the wheels and they are bottoming out against the hub before the wheel is securely tightened against the hub. Aluminum wheels are really, really picky about what lug nuts are used.

 

[Wes Harden]

you shouldn't have to recheck lug nuts, once properly tightened down. (Few exceptions) Something is not right here. if it is all 4 then probably as @Barrman has stated incorrect lug nuts. If it is only 1 maybe 2 wheels then it is possible a wrapped bolt circle

 

[Brady Foster]

You write that the wheels are the original ones from before the restoration. Does that mean original GM wheels?

Are the studs the proper size for the wheels? As in when you put the wheel on is there just a little wiggle without the lug nuts or a bunch?

Do the lug nuts have the conical shape and do they go about half way into the lug hole on the wheels?

This brings up the entire lug centric versus hub centric wheel mounting method argument. GM used lug centric which means the conical lug nuts were supposed to self center the wheel between them and keep it from moving in any direction. My first thought was you have the wrong lug nuts for the wheels and they are bottoming out against the hub before the wheel is securely tightened against the hub. Aluminum wheels are really, really picky about what lug nuts are used.

They aren’t original gm wheels but whatever the previous owner had on, some random 8 shots. They are lug centric lugs, when removing the wheel last time there was evidence of the back face of the wheel rubbing against the rotor. Studs are the right size and the shank fits snugly within the rotor. If I remember correctly the wheels have some play when just rested on the studs (eg. nuts not torqued down).