CK5
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STUPID MICE!!

I've used the 5 gallon bucket before. I know it works! i have considered setting that up in the shop. but I will try the soap trick in the cars. that's my bigger concern. They were in the Barracuda, and have made a nest in the back seat insulation.. I chased one out of the other car last Sunday. I do have a few stray cats that enjoy hanging around the garage, but they don't go in the garage. Orkin comes every 2 months and treats the house and shop. But that's just to keep the insects way.
I appreciate the responses.
 
Ive used:

*Irish Spring soap shavings…found the shavings were being chewed on…no dead mice found
*dryer sheets…found them shredded and a nest made from them…no dead mice found
*D-Con poison…found the little boxes partially ate up…could smell dead mice..for weeks
*5 gal bucket trap…caught several in the bucket…pro tip: don't leave them in the antifreeze for weeks at a time, its a horrendous smell and is probably hazardous waste at that point.
*Victor wood spring traps w/ peanut butter…have caught many mice with these, need to check em every couple weeks in the fall when their on the move for shelter, but very effective. Mouse is caught and disposed of. Sometimes I laugh at them as I throw them by their tail into the yard for other predators to feed on.
*barn cat…good ones are very effective, I’ve only had them in a horse barn, but mouse carcass pieces were a common sight.
*peppermint oil…seems to be a good deterrent, but need to refresh every couple weeks.

Other tips:
Keep food and nesting sources away from access.
I usually catch them on the Victor traps next to the overhead door, as that is a somewhat easy portal around the weatherstrip and door frame.
Ive also caught them as they’ve run over the trap, not necessarily feeding on the bait. Putting the trap with the bait facing a perimeter wall or other similar “run” is most effective as they tend to run next to a barrier of some type…wall baseplate or similar.
For some reason they prefer an unheated area, as opposed to the heated areas. Perhaps because the heated portions are surrounded by concrete as opposed to close to the grass area of the usual entry portal?

Sweet dreams little bastards!

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We get em in the garbage trucks, although my route is Cardboard so I get a lot less than the other guys do...

Had a guy set up a glue trap in his truck. Dumb-ass. Catches a mouse, but of course it's still alive, he doesn't want to touch it, or kill it himself. Glue traps are stupid, and cruel IMO.

Here at home we have three cats, all decent mousers. Within 6 months of moving here the neighbor kitty corner to us came over and asked if it was OK to give our cats treats? He has a 24x30 garage he could not keep the mice out of...until we moved here. Our cats decimated the mouse population, and he hadn't seen a mouse in months.
 
My only concern with the bait is, i don't want them eating the bait, crawling in something.... and dying there! I pulled the interior out of the corvette, and it smelled horrible!

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The secondary poisoning thing would be my concern. Once they eat the bait they do not start looking for the most inconvenient place to die...they go looking for water.

My preferred method is the standard "neck breaker 9000" with peanut butter as bait. Effective, and humane.
 
It's awful when the trap disappears. In an area I was reframing, I learned to screw the traps down to the subfloor.
 
Got mine nailed to lengths of 2x6's, same problem before I used a heavier piece of lumber. Found a three trap arrangement (on a light piece of plywood) under my porch months after they went missing. Lots of things seem to enjoy the easy meal.

I used the wooden snap traps for a long time, but the plastic type for me are easier to bait, more difficult for a mouse to access without tripping, and a LOT easier to dump your catch, since they have a big lever you depress.
 
The plastic traps are super convenient, but always seemed weaker to me. I've seen mice escape them, while the old reliable can do this:

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I still vote for type of traps that are low maintenance never need resetting or disposal of the rodents and work night and day in stealth mode - and once the initial colony has been assassinated these nonstop-ninjas keep work’n security for any new explorers look’n for a new home.

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Still trying to vett the story of a bio friendly mice / rat poison...

Peanuts muddled, tooth paste ( none mint,) baking powder, flour.... not sure of proportion, or other ingredients... roll into balls... Attacks rats... Supposed they eat it & foam up internally & die in quick order...

Want to find the exact recipe
 
The stuff the exterminator uses has an anticoagulant in it so they get a bruise and bleed out. But when your farm cat eats one she needs a vitamin K shot.
 
I've got a couple of Huskies that are better mousers than the cat. You could also try a Yorkshire terrier the are excellent mousers, is their sole propose for being. Bread to catch and destroy mice in the textile mills. cause cats and yarn ..................... well you know
 

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