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Stupid reliable

COCHEV

1/2 ton status
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What do you guys think would be the most reliable engine/induction for our square bodies? I'm talking stock engine, least likely to give you problems or leave you stranded, longevity- 150-200 lifespan, parts availability and ease of maintenance/troubleshooting...

Carburated 350/454
TBI 350/454
LSX
6.2 diesel
Other...

I'm talking start it, drive it, change the oil, don't think about, don't mess with it...

My guess is good ol' carbed 350, least wires, no puter.
 
a tbi 350 will last longer than a carb'd 350
 
Does that factor in the in-tank pump crapping out in the middle of nowhere?
 
a tbi 350 will last longer than a carb'd 350

Do tell.

Arguments could be made either way IMO about longevity between service for either, but there are parts on a TBI unit that will leave you on the side of the road.

There is virtually nothing on a Q-jet that has to leave you on the side of the road, especially with some ingenuity :deal:
 
Vortec 350 with a new turbine style (as opposed to the old impeller style) pump. I've got 200k on mine all original aside from a K&N filter.
 
I'd say the newer LSX series engines. They go for 150k without blinking, my second choice would be a TBI350. Not enough power to hurt it self lol.

Idk what to say about electric fuel pumps leaving you stranded but " it happens"
 
I've heard good about ls's and plenty of bad. If you get one and do a full rebuild with good parts I'd say you've got a good chance of being the best, but it ain't cheap. My dad's 02 burb has needed a water pump that was $400+ and a fuel pump $600, and it's at 106k right now... Plus, has 10x the sensors, wires and everything else to go wrong. If it's a newer motor, it'll have an electronic gas pedal. IMO that's just more crap to break...
 
i like efi my self for best mileage / off road no flood outs / easy starting.

i have a truck now i got from junk yard sat close to 8 years no run. blown motor. i swaped the body on my k30 truck and put my 350 tbi chip inplace of the 305 chip and fired it up just like it was shut off. not even a check engine light .

been going strong for over 7 years now and never skipped a beat and or left me stranded. only problem was 1 time i forgot to hook up the map sensor line and it ran/started like dog crap . :doah:

carb even the best q-jet can flood out and or not fire stupid easy at times. but if carb a good q-jet be my only choice.

ls motors are not 150k mile motors more like 300k+ motors. and the efi in them is great from what i have been reading . i am in the middle of a 5.3 / 4l60-e swap in my 2wd now . should be super.

the best advice stick with what you know you can fix / get parts for most any place / and like to drive/play with .
 
Stupid reliable...


DSC02318.jpg
 
Wasted Wages is right...cant beat SIMPLE and old school tech when it comes to it NOT breaking down on the roadside often,if at all,and should it,it can be fixed by YOU right there,with simple hand tools!...try replacing a serpentine belt or radiator hose on a late model truck on the side of the road--on many it cant be done,or you need certain tools,and you'll never be left scratching your head wondering which sensor quit,or is it the computer,or electric fuel pump that crapped out too...

I might be an old fart now,but I liked my old carbed small blocks and straight sixes best...I drove my 72 K5 150 miles daily commuting to work for 2 years and never had to fix it on the side of the road once...and if I had too,at least I could!...

I dont have much experience with later EFI engines or computerized trucks,and dont plan too...

I wont argue they do run sweet when all is right with one,but they can drive you batty when one starts acting up too,and its not cheap throwing sensors and parts at them that sometimes dont "fix" it..


I felt a lot more secure driving my old van with a 250 six to TN than I would in my 95 Ford Contour,that I cant fix hardly anything under the hood on that thing if it crapped out en-route...hell,I had to take it to my friends shop just to replace the stupid fuel filter,i had never done one with "clips" and he had a 2 hour battle on his lift trying to get the original filter off (140k on it!) without destroying the fuel lines...and it took 45 minutes to replace the serp belt ,up and down on the lift 5 times,had to remove pulleys,motor mount,etc..try doing that on 1-95,good frigging luck!...belts on my van suck to get at,but can be replaced in 30 minutes at most anywhere,like a parts store parking lot...not so on a later vehicle..
I felt like handing in my man card and tools,after not even being able to tackle those 2 repairs,after having done frame offs on my old trucks,swap engines & trannys,etc...


I could put a tranny in my van in the breakdown lane in the same amount of time probably,as it'd take to replace a serp belt on my ford in a shop with a lift......if the tranny in the Ford craps out,you may as well scrap it...ditto for the altenator and starter,to remove either you must drop the y-pipe and take a driveshaft out!...400+ buck job...a Chevy altenator or starter takes 15 minutes tops,unless all the bolts snap off..and cost a lot less too..

Old school tech might have its disadvantages,but simplicity is always better than complicated..being able to repair an old vehicle yourself and cheaper than a newer one is why I prefer them over something built more recently...most 2000 and up trucks I see around here are rustier and in worse shape than the 80's ones still putting around...like they were made of crap recycled steel,they flake apart in 10 years...frames and steel lines litteraly dissapear on many in 10 years or less now..
 
Do tell.

Arguments could be made either way IMO about longevity between service for either, but there are parts on a TBI unit that will leave you on the side of the road.

There is virtually nothing on a Q-jet that has to leave you on the side of the road, especially with some ingenuity :deal:

Just the fact that a tbi doesn't wash the cylinder walls like a carb, he said 150k-200k, I haven't seen many carb engines go that far
 
if you're not in a hurry, I'd go 6.2l diesel...:pimp:
 
It's a 235 or 261 "stovebolt" straight six chevy!...I had one in my '56 3200 series pickup...good reliable,rugged little engine that had more torque than some V8's ...they weren't exactly fuel mileage champs,but they were very rugged,reliable engines...

These engines were based on the old 216 six,that had babbit bearings,and remained almost unchanged from the 30's to around 1953,when they went to typical insert bearings and an improved oil pump full pressure lube system...they used them up till 1962,when the 230,250,and 292 straight sixes were introduced in '63...I think used those engines up till 1984 in trucks...

I wasn't aware GM made a EFI straight six for marine use--wish they had kept using straight sixes with EFI in trucks,instead of going to the 4.3 V6's...no comparison in reliability or durability to a straight six versus a carbed 4.3...
 

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