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Stupid tranny flush question

sickquad

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I need to change the tranny fluid in my 94 T-Bird. After I drop the pan there will still be fluid in the radiator and torque converter. Could I bolt the pan back up and run the motor to get some more fluid out of it? Is it bad to run all of the fluid out of the tranny like that?

Thanks
Chris
 
Yeah I don't believe you should run the converter dry. If you're worried about particles in there because you've had a problem, get your local tranny shop to open the converter up and clean it out. There is an aerosol flush for rads and lines, again, ask your tranny shop about it.
 
fords often have drain plugs in the torque convertor, there should be a rubber plug at the bottom of the bellhousing, remove it, then turn the engine by hand(wrench on the crank bolt) untill you see the plug in the hole, it is a hex headed pipe plug
 
Two additional ways to do it are:

1) disconnect the return line into the tranny, connect a hose and put it in a big bucket. After filling up the pan, start and run the engine for 3-4 seconds, shut it off, add fluid to the pan and do it again until you flush the total amount of fluid required.

2) fill the pan, start the car, run for 3-4 seconds, shut it off and using a siphon pump, put the tube down the dipstick into the pan, suck out the fluid, pour in fluid start the car and repeat until its flushed.

As was mentioned, some fords have drain plugs on the converter, this is much easier.
 
You might be better off having it flushed at a tranny shop--they have that machine like a vampire that sucks out the old fluid while putting fresh fluid in--its about 75-100 bucks to have it done that way.The method of flushing by removing a cooler line works too,but I have seen a few trannys not like being run that low on fluid(its hard to judge how much ATF has poured out into the bucket when your sitting in the car--you need 2 people to do it.).I like the idea of the machine flushing,but often times they dont even pull the pan or change the filter when they do it that way,they claim its not nessasary,but I disagree. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
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You might be better off having it flushed at a tranny shop--they have that machine like a vampire that sucks out the old fluid while putting fresh fluid in--its about 75-100 bucks to have it done that way.

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I would do this if it was my trans. It is the safest and gets almost all the fluid out, although a tad expensive.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Two additional ways to do it are:

1) disconnect the return line into the tranny, connect a hose and put it in a big bucket. After filling up the pan, start and run the engine for 3-4 seconds, shut it off, add fluid to the pan and do it again until you flush the total amount of fluid required.

2) fill the pan, start the car, run for 3-4 seconds, shut it off and using a siphon pump, put the tube down the dipstick into the pan, suck out the fluid, pour in fluid start the car and repeat until its flushed.

As was mentioned, some fords have drain plugs on the converter, this is much easier.

[/ QUOTE ]

Just to add to this... It works, but it is slow and you will waste a lot of fluid, but still cheaper than a shop. The bucket you are pumping it into....get a quart bottle and a marker then pour a quart of water in to the bucket make a mark on the inside of the bucket. Continue doing this until you have many 1 QT marks up the side. This way you can keep track of how much pumps out and how much to put back in. I have done it this way 1 OT at a time to be safe. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

Oh yeah after you have flushed it until it comes out clean then drop the pan and replace the filter and add more new fluid that way you arent pumping dirty fluid thru a new filter /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
I had my T-bird flushed via the "machine" once at Jiffy Lube, cost $80.

When I took my Trans-Am to the local "reputable" trans shop he said he wouldnt use the machine cause he's seen it cause problems with seals. Dont know if thats true or not. He used the pump to suck out 3-4 qts then add 3-4 qts then start and run 3-4 secs then repeat until he went thru 12 qts. When I asked him about potential old fluid left he said what ever small abount that was left is so diluted by the new its not a problem. I would tend to agree. He charged me $50

I did my blazer and elcamino via the disconnecting of the return line, much faster but be sure you have the hose "well secured" to the bucket or you will find fluid everywhere when you start it up....dont ask me how I know this. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Its amazing how many people never service their trans. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
I need to change the tranny fluid in my 94 T-Bird. After I drop the pan there will still be fluid in the radiator and torque converter. Could I bolt the pan back up and run the motor to get some more fluid out of it? Is it bad to run all of the fluid out of the tranny like that?

Thanks
Chris

[/ QUOTE ] The new way is hooking it up to a machine and letting it cycle all the old out while pumping new in. A friend is the ast. manager at the local firstone store so I get mine done for free when the big boss is out of town, LOL.
 
Yes,it is amazing how many folks never change the tranny filter and fluid--even customers who were very anal about changing the engine's oil every 3000 miles at my friends shop balk at spending 50 bucks for the filter and ATF,saying they dont tow,or carry much cargo,yada,yada,maybe next time,etc.They are the first ones to bitch when the tranny dies at 100,000 miles and they blame the "lousy 700R4"or whatever manufacturer made it for selling "junk" tranny's!! /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif.Thats the american way I guess-abuse it since it was new,never service it--then say "they are junk!" /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif

I think the reason many dodge caravans had "bad" automatic trannys(besides being a poor design)is the fact they are supposed to use special "7176" ATF --but I bet a lot of owners and shops put Dextron in them instead,and the fliud might not be compatable with the seals and friction quality--maybe they were poisoned!!. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
Oh yeah--both of the tranny shops I trust and deal with say if the fluid has never been changed by the 100,000 mile mark,your probably better off NOT changing it at all!--or drop the pan and change the filter,and add just what amount of fliud it takes to re-fill it.Their theory is you might loosen up all the "laquer"and sludge thats keeping it sealed up--if you loosen all that gunk up,chances are it will cause problems.I've seen this happen many times--someone(like me /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif)will buy a high milage used vehicle,and start being nice to it,after a long life of neglect--a few days later,the tranny is toast--and your looking for another one!. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
 
Why can you not just stick the return line in a bucket of fresh ATF and it will suck back in as much fluid as it spits out the pickup line?
 
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Why can you not just stick the return line in a bucket of fresh ATF and it will suck back in as much fluid as it spits out the pickup line?

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Without asking an expert:

I would say this does not work. I tried that once and ended up having to pour it in via the dipstick. It could have been a fluke but I don't think there is enough suction to draw the fluid in through the line. I believe it relies on the pump to push fluid back into the pan where it can be sucked up at close range. Again, I am no expert, so maybe someone who "knows" can verify/deny.

Side Note: One of the first tranny flushing machines I saw had a chamber and a bladder filled with fresh fluid. As old fluid was pumped into the chamber, it pushed on the bladder forcing new fluid in (again using the tranny pump to force in new fluid).

FWIW
 
You guys are great, thanks for all of the info. It has been 40,000 miles since it was last changed at the 120,000 mile mark. The book says every 30,000 miles so it is a little over due.

The tranny runs fine now, no problems at all. The fluid does look a little dirty though.

-Chris
 
I have done it a few times where you flush it yourself.

It is similar to theirs but a litle different, works great. Do like they mentioned, get a bucket, and put the return line in the bucket. Put a good funnel in the fill tube. Start it up, and start pouring transmission fluid in the fill tube. It will take it out pretty much as fast as you can pour it in. In fact, have 10 - 12 quarts sitting there with the cap off and ready to go. Just let it idle and keep pouring in new until you have either gone through the 12 quarts, or until fresh clean fluid comes out of the return line. You will notice a difference in the fluid coming out from the beginning to the end. It does work great, and it only costs the fluid price. If you haven't changed the filter in a while you may want drop the pan and change the filter after you did that. When you are done just make sure to return the fluid level to the correct mark on the dipstick. I have done this several times with a few different vehicles, works great every time. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
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