Stupid u-joint ?? help quick

[seanp]

I'm outside trying to change the rear u-joints in my Jimmy right now. But i can't get the old ones out. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif There aren't snap rings or c-clips holding them in that i can tell. It looks like they are just pressed in but i used a vice and the old socket and hammer trick with no luck.

Ok, i just read a post about stock u-joints haveing a plastic plug, how do i get it out?

 

[heavy4x4]

Take a propane torch (like you use for plumbing fix-its) and heat right around the u-joint caps on the driveshaft. A black line of melted platic will purge out of the fill hole. That's the only way to do it. Oh, and wear long sleeves and safety glasses incase the plastic injection pops a bit...you don't want that to land on you, it burns. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[83ZZ502_Jimmy]

I'll second the first reply.. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

John

 

[seanp]

Thanks, i've got a friend bringing a torch over now.

 

[Foy]

Cool, we need to do this on the '90 Burban, too. I can't believe the originals only lasted 13 years and 182,000 mi. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

This rear shaft is different from the Scout rear shafts, which have the slip yoke in the shaft itself. It looks like the Burban shaft needs to have the cap bolts removed from the rear diff yoke, then the whole shaft will slide back from the slip yolk in the tail of the trans case, then the plastic filled caps on the rear of the shaft, and all of the caps on the front of the shaft heated on the bench and driven out, right?

Do you recommend any particular brands of replacements? I'd like to get grease-able joints.

You guys are a lot of help--thanks!

Cooper

 

[84_Chevy_K10]

Some of our trucks have a slip style shaft and some have it in the transfer case depending on which transfer case they have.

I use Neapco u-joints, but most people insist on using Spicer. I have had good luck with the Neapco and they're less expensive.

My driveline man recommends only non-greaseable type u-joints so that's all I'll use now. I believe that they're stronger. I've had good luck with mine holding up under some serious usage.

 

[seanp]

That was the most rediculous u-joint change i've had to do. I also used non greasable u-joints.

And be careful when heating it because like they said above the plastic does snap, crackle and pop. Kinda scared me. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif After that the socket and hammer popped them right out.

 

[heavy4x4]

/forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif I've still got a small scar on my forearm where a little popped on me and burnt pretty good...hence my suggesting you wear long sleeves. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[83ZZ502_Jimmy]

You've got that scar too? /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

John

 

[heavy4x4]

Yup, right next to the 2nd degree exhaust manifold burn scar. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif