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Stupid Voltage Reg. issues again

homemadesin

1/2 ton status
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Aug 17, 2002
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Castle Rock, CO
Ever since the Volt Reg left me dead on the coldest day this past winter, I've been watching the ammeter like a hawk. I bought a $10 cheapie from Advance to get me running and it failed on the next coldest day (week or two later). So I went and bought a $46 NAPA unit which worked great for 3-4 months. First the ammeter needle started bouncing, then it indicated massive charge (full peg) all the time. I heard a hissing sound and thought it was the radiator cap, but it was the battery caps!!! It was overcharging the battery and the walls of the battery were bulging. WTF? The NAPA guys tested at 20V out!!!

Should I be looking for something else....short? The alternator was replaced along with the first VR (NAPA unit, 63A).
 
hmm, well the rgulator is not regulating the input voltage to the Batt from the Alt. Duno the source of your issue or why the regulators keep dying on you but if it were me I would go with a one wire alternator w/internal regulator. I bought the PowerMaster version @ 140amp. I have a winch, lights and dual batts so I needed the extra amps. May not 'find the issue' but that would certianly by pass the issue.
Good Luck
 
I tossed that old setup on my 71, and replaced with a single wire, Delco 10S1 alternator. Cut off and tape up all wire's, except the main power lead, which connect's to the 10SI. Remove and toss the old regulator for good. Very easy, and very effective cure for your problem. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
I stayed with the old external regulator system. But I had to replace the front wiring headlamp harness.I had other problems beside the overcooking battery. It cost about $135 from Brothers.[M&H] I had an intermittant open that was caused by the ground lead off the pass side low beam headlamp occasionally shorting out or breaking contact. [The PO never used solder or crimp connectors -- he simply twisted bare ends together and taped over it(!)]. Once I had new wiring I didn't have this problem. The new external regulators aren't as good as the original series. Those were adjustable with a small screwdriver (cover off -- engine running) for optimum charging voltage. They don't make them like that anymore because they don't want to get sued if some guy gets his tie or long hair caught in the fan belt. I talked to the guys at Tucson Alternator Exchange who said they could custom build me an old school regulator for about $100, but since it's not a problem now, I don't need it. In fact I took a regulator out of my pile of "burn-outs," painted the cover with spraycan red (for the hell of it) and put it back on as an experiment after the usual new battery and new alternator. It's still on a year later. Go figure?
 
I got a great deal on a Lestek #9135D alternator. It is externally regulated and the regulator is adjustable. I have yet to bolt it in but it will be nice to have 100 more amps than the stock alt. No more having the head lights dim at idle /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif. I only payed $120 for the alt & reg.

I don't think they have a web site but the phone # on the alt is (800)433-7628. I have never seen a better alternator in my life. It has dual output with each output having a dual diode trio! That means 12 diodes /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

When I did a search I found this page
http://www.balmar.net/PDF/2002%20Balmar%20Pricing.pdf
The price for the alt I got is $869.95 /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

I guess I got a good deal /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
It looks like it would be but it came with its own. Some nice 14ga stuff. All the lines came labled so you know where to hook them up to as well. The plug for the voltage reg has 4 wires (brown, red, orange, blue) it also has a extra wire to ground the voltage reg to the alt. That last wire sounds like a good addation to me (I don't remember there being one on the k5?)
 
The stock external regulator has a 4 or 5" black 18ga ground lead that screws into the base of the regulator and terminates on the interior of the radiator wall.
 

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