CK5
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Suburban 454 non start after rebuild...

Ok, to recap....
Here is the cam timing pic again...




Cam2.jpg


As suggested in the Haynes manual, I turned the crank 1 full revolution from the previous pic of TDC on #1.


OneRevE.jpg


I rotated the crank one more turn to put it back to TDC on #1 again..
Then I put the Distributor in at the suggested position.. 5-30.

DizzyPosE.jpg


Then I installed the Crank damper... the markes for TDC lined up good.
TimingPosE.jpg


And....
No start!
Checked for a spark on both sides and got a good solid spark.

What am I missing here?
How do I set up the timing without the engine running???
 
Timing light works while cranking the engine, too. It doesn't have to be running to get it close. And yes, the cam timing looks good. Wow, energetic aren't you?:D You getting plenty of fuel, right? Losing fuel pressure could cause it to idle OK, but not want to rev or drive without popping, sputtering, too. I know it must seem like we're just grasping at straws here, but well, we are. Without being able to see and hear it, it makes it even harder to decide on the probable causes. I hope we get this right soon, for your sake.
 
I did a quick compression test on #1......... just under 150psi.
I think that sounds about right?
Yes, that sounds about right. Do you have a way to check fuel pressure with it running? Unfortunately I don't think there's a test port on that engine to make it easy.
 
Ok, we have success!
Spoke to an engine guy 2 days ago, I had set the distributor 180 wrong.
I corrected that then restarted... ran rough still.
I noticed that there was a rythemic spit back thru the TB, so as someone suggested I felt there was a tight inlet valve.... did a compression test on #2 and NOTHING!
Pulled the valve cover off and yes, the inlet valve on 2 was not set right... dunno how I did that! :confused:
Anyway, it now runs better!
More soon....
 
Update!
I went thru all the valves again, and did the running adjustment... Loosed them until the valve started to clack, the tightened them back til just quiet, then 1/2 turn more.
Then I went thru the ignition sytem again and detailed the firing order.
Upon checking the dis cap, I found the center contact had fallen out.. so swapped the cap with a spare I had.
Engine now runs great everywhere off idle and pulls hard, but flutters and surges at idle... best way to describe it is it sound like it has a "Hot" cam in it.
Side issues, was that the temp gauge is erratic... sometimes reads off the scale, then other times normal and other times coild.... The connector to the RH head is damaged, so I assume erratic connection.
Engine service light comes on now and again.
Oil pressure is 30psi at idle hot, and 50/55psi running.
Any ideas or thoughts anyone?
 
Does the engine light go on and off while it's running, or just when you turn the engine off?
 
I was just about to post when I saw you had found your problem. as soon as I saw your pics I could tell you were 180 out. Its a common mistake, when you put the timing chain and gears on with the dots together for alignment, everyone assumes thats TDC on compression on #1, but I believe its actually TDC on compression on #6. the second pic you had, with both dots up is #1 on compression at TDC. Good to hear you have it sorted out
 
Thanks!
Well, its running but something is not right..
I did post another title because I realized I had left out the metal plates that go in the center ports of the inlet manifold gasket... I think they are to do with the EGR setup.
Will this make any difference?
Anyone understand what I mean, or shall I post pics?
 
those are egr block off plates for aluminum manifolds or early cars with out egr you dont want them in there if you have egr so you did it right.
 
Good!
Ok, I am in the middle of mmoving house this week, so things are a little crazy!
Anyway, the Burb starts and runs, and hauls well, but here are a few of the issues...
At idle it runs rough and sometimes stalls.
I have an issue with the temp gauge.... The one on the RH head was damaged, so the plug is not good. I took the damaged plastic off it and attached the spade to the bare pin and now I get either a cold reading or a maxed out hot reading.
I did a good job of lableing the wires on the motor but made a stupid error... when I put the trans in, a Green wire had fallen down the back of the motor and later I found that it was trapped between the motor and trans.... pull the trans or cut off the wire? I did the latter.
Anyway, I cant seewhere this one goes... There is a temp sender in the LH head... does it go there?
 
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