Suburban advise/opinions

[izzy1776]

Alright so I am actively shopping for a burb and I found one that I might jump on but I'm thinking too much about it. I posted about it here: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=317261

I plan to camp/explore/wheel with this rig on 33's and a 4" lift for a while.
I've got an F-250 for towing.

My questions are:
1. Should I hold out for one with a 6.2, I know the mileage is better but what other benefits (aside from no SMOG) would there be over a TBI350

2. any other benefits of a 3/4 ton vs. a 1/2 other than axles

3. Barn door vs. Tailgate

For those that commented on the other thread thank you and to those coming here, help me spend my money wisely.

 

[dhcomp]

Go 3/4 ton. I'm a strong believer that these should never have been built in 1/2 ton configuration.

Stronger axles, brakes, better gearing, stronger trans.

That being said, you have to get a 91 to get a 4 speed trans.

Being in CA, there are enough good deals on 91 4x4 3/4 ton burb's, you'll find a good one.

Barn doors vs. tailgate is a personal thing. I wouldnt' be caught dead with barndoors, and have passed on lots of good rigs because of them.

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/4656199728.html

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/4617957453.html

http://yubasutter.craigslist.org/cto/4590752384.html

http://merced.craigslist.org/cto/4648972355.html

Shall i continue?

 

[dremu]

I had a 6.2 in a Blazer and it was weak, at least with its 3.08:1 gearing. In a bigger truck with more stuff, you'd want more gear, and then you lose the fuel efficiency, IMO. They're also pricier to fix (though simpler, so maybe you gotta fix 'em less) and require more specialized knowledge/parts/tools than a gasser.

As Darren mentioned, the 3/4 will have a TH400 (through '90) or the 4L80E ('91). Both are good trannies, but the '400 is not conducive to fuel economy as it's a three speed. (In theory you could get a manual but they're rare in later years.) The 3/4 will ride a bit harder, but eh, it's a *truck*.

Back when I had a Burb I wish I'd bought one with barn doors, but ended up with a tailgate rig. I'd say either drive a barndoor rig and see if the rear-vision block drives you nuts, or just run some painter's tape down the middle of the rear window of your current driver and see how bad it is

-- A

 

[4xcrazy]

The barn doors and tailgate thing are personal options/opinions, I have had both now, bard door'd Burb is currently making its way back to me, but recently sold the 2wd tailgate one I had in Phoenix. I hated that tailgate, it lowers down and is just sticking out way too far to be able to easily reach into the cargo area of the back end.

The barn doors allow you to get right up against the cargo area without serious leaning. Don't have to worry about the sagging rear window, scratching of the glass from rolling up and down, which it will...

 

[diesel4me]

I wish my 85 burb had barn doors...no electric window woes,tailgate that weighs 200 lbs to rot off it,and much easier cargo loading with barn doors..
I think the barn doors look better too...makes it more "truck-like" ,not a station wagon ...
To each his own though...

Mine has a 6.2 and a 700R4 thats ailing...and its a 6 lug half ton...

I tend to agree the 1/2 ton version isn't exactly the hot setup...
Burbs are heavy beasts and tend to be overloaded often with "stuff" and used to tow..
That said,I have seen some 2wd half ton ones with a 454 tow full sized trucks on car trailers with ease,and BIG camping trailers,like 30+ footers..
8 lug axles are much safer though,under those conditions..

If I had my "dream" Suburban it would be a 3/4 or 1 ton axled 4x4 with a NV4500 5 speed,454 ,and 4.10 gears ,with a 3" lift and 33" tires...
I'll be unlikely to ever own one though..

I got the one I have cheap,so even though it wasn't exactly what I'd like it to be,it was close enough--and its unmolested and bone stock,I like trucks that no one else has butchered yet..

 

[izzy1776]

The tailgate window does scare me a little bit but I was thinking that it would be beneficial to stand on to load stuff onto a roof rack. What about axle swapping a 1/2?

 

[diesel4me]

You can roll 3/4 ton axles right under a 1/2 ton burb with no mods,actually the front diff is the same thing with 8 lug rotors,you can just swap the outers out and leave the rest installed (provided you get a real axle with matching gear ratio)...a 14 bolt semi or full floater bolts right in,the u-joint might need to be swapped for a "conversion" joint if the yokes aren't the same..

I believe a 1 ton rear has to have the spring pads moved to bolt in,otherwise they work too..I've seen plenty of dually Suburbans running around here..
People just add the fenders off a dually pickup that are cut down,or they tub the wheel tubs and just flare out the wheel wells a bit..

 

[izzy1776]

Another newb question.... I already have a 4" lift from rough country bought for a 76 K5. I know it will fit on a 1500 burb but what about the 3/4 ton? Will I need new ubolts?

 

[4xcrazy]

yes, new u-bolts, they're bigger to fit around the larger axle tube diameter. I made that mistake when I ordered mine from Rough Country, ordered one for a half ton burb, forgot about the 3/4 ton axle I installed under it, get the kit and realize the u-bolts they sent with won't work, I called them back and explained, they sent a new set for free.

 

[dhcomp]

what about axle swapping a 1/2?

What benefit would this have, besides lots of work?
We all speak of axle swaps on here as easy, and as much as they are, its tough to do it cheap if you plan to put a lot of miles on the truck. I needed mine to be reliable, got a deal on a 4.10 matching set of 10 bolt/14 bolt ff. Spent money going through brakes, bearings, ubolts, u joints, etc. Fair bit of cash involved in doing that right. Then the rear started leaking at the pinion, had a shop take it apart, and found someone had tampered with the gear setup. $1500 worth of bearing replacement and gear setup.

Not to say it can't be done cheap, i just like people to realize the can of worms they MAY be opening.


If you are starting from scratch and buying a truck, wait for the right 3/4 ton.

Why would you NOT start with the best you can afford, when the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton trucks are priced about hte same.

You never really mentioned a target price, what are you trying to spend?


A few more local ones.

The black one looks awesome.

http://reno.craigslist.org/cto/4600627095.html

http://reno.craigslist.org/cto/4644999624.html

 

[diesel4me]

If I had a choice between a rusty 3/4 ton and a minty 1/2 ton for about the same price--I'd opt for doing the axle swap!...

I'd rather swap axles than do body or even engine work, any day...

 

[izzy1776]

I found this one that I think I am going to call on later today. Hope its still around.

http://merced.craigslist.org/cto/4626648674.html

I think $2000 is going to be my goal (limited to cash on hand) and I am trying to be realistic about what I can get for that price. Up or down from there depending on what I find. Don't mind working on most things but like you have stated I don't want a can-o-worms. Thanks for all the tips so far, I really am taking it all into consideration.

 

[dhcomp]

Only real concern on that one is the Th350.

The 3/4 ton's should have a Th400.

I do my best to stay away from the 1/2 ton transmissions in such heavy burbs.

 

[Burbdood 74]

Another newb question.... I already have a 4" lift from rough country bought for a 76 K5. I know it will fit on a 1500 burb but what about the 3/4 ton? Will I need new ubolts?

If you have the Rough Country rear springs instead of blocks, they won't work. 3/4 tons came with 56" rear springs and Blazers came with 52" rear springs.

So, you'll need either new 56" long rear springs or do like I'm going to do in a couple of weeks and drop your gas tank, grind the rivets off the rear spring hanger and move them forward 4" so you can use the 52" long springs.

 

[82355]

I would only look for 1987-1991 gas burners.

The 6.2 diesel is used from 1982-1991.

The 3/4 ton Suburbans from 1981-1991 aren't really that great. They only get a semi floating 14 bolt rear axle. They are not much better than a 1/2 ton. Also you get stuck with a TH400, which is fine if you like strength (along with poor gearing, loss of power, and poor fuel economy)

Now a 1991 3/4 ton, that is worth buying. The 4L80E is the best automatic they put in these trucks (even if it is as power robbing and poor geared as the TH400). The fact that is has overdrive allows it to be overgeared and make up somewhat for the poor gearing of what a TH400 would have.

I dislike tail gates. Barn doors are much easier to work with. Having to roll the window down every time you want to get in the back gets annoying.

I have an unfair advantage, but I do axle swaps very cheap, so I would much rather have a half ton Suburban with a TH700R4 (if you are going to limit yourself to an automatic).

Martin

 

[izzy1776]

The lift I bought has rear lift blocks, I did this so that I could shackle flip it later on and save a little money right now.

As far as the TH350 goes.... How difficult is it to swap in a 700R4. I might have a chance to get one. And would it be worth it if I will only be driving around the mountains and town (read hilly roads nothing above 55mph).

I also was wondering about the "3.93 F/R" I thought it should be 3.73???

Do these usually run an 8 lug 10-bolt up front or a D44?

 

[kennyw]

As far as the TH350 goes.... How difficult is it to swap in a 700R4. I might have a chance to get one. And would it be worth it if I will only be driving around the mountains and town (read hilly roads nothing above 55mph).

I also was wondering about the "3.93 F/R" I thought it should be 3.73???

Do these usually run an 8 lug 10-bolt up front or a D44?

$2000 should buy you a rig setup with what you want anywhere but in CA. Consider searching in OR, NV, WA and importing it if you can find your diesel truck.

Someone saying they have 3.93 gears either doesn't really know what they have or it was a typo and it should have been 3.73.

Don't bother with a rig that requires swapping a TH350 transmission unless it is $500. You will be paying to undo someone elses mistakes and will be way over your $2000 limit fast as it could become a can-o-worms fast.

81-91 burbs will all have 10 bolt front axles (both 1/2 and 3/4 ton versions).

The 6.2L diesel is a great engine with the same power as a small block 350 of similar vintage. They have their issues that you need to watch for when buying, but no more than the 350, just different issues. I think they are a better engine for in the long term if you start with one that was cared for properly.

 

[jeff in co]

yes, new u-bolts, they're bigger to fit around the larger axle tube diameter. I made that mistake when I ordered mine from Rough Country, ordered one for a half ton burb, forgot about the 3/4 ton axle I installed under it, get the kit and realize the u-bolts they sent with won't work, I called them back and explained, they sent a new set for free.

What size did you get for your 3/4 axle? 14SF or FF?

5/8" x 3.125" x height?

 

[4xcrazy]

Full float, should have mentioned that little detail, sorry. I don't know the size measurements of the u-bolts used, they were bigger and wider to fit around the axle tubes.

 

[izzy1776]

Well it kind of sounds like I will be wanting to swap axles under one regardless of if I buy a 1/2 vs 3/4 ton. At the very least the front axle on the 3/4 ton. Also it seems like the 1/2 ton has the better tranny. And unless I suck at craiglist (which is not unlikely) all of the good 6.2's out there are either haggard or out of my range of both price and distance. I am leaning towards barn doors for both aesthetic and function reasons but it will not be a deal breaker. I've found these two also and have asked the seller for more info on both.

http://goldcountry.craigslist.org/cto/4637441818.html

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/4652842520.html

I was told the gray one is only non-oped because "grandpa doesn't drive anymore." I already want to name it "The Silver Bullet"