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Suburban Lift Question

utherjorge

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I just got my new Suburban, and I have questions about lifting them.

I know the same sort of things I can do, from my experience with my K. I would have no plans for anything larger than a 2" lift.

However, what experiences does anyone have with lifting the body? Specifically, what about the ORD 1" body lift kit with the aluminum pucks?

I know that when I lifted my K 2" in the suspension, I didn;t need to lengthen brake lines, and so on. I assume that's the case with a 1" body lift. But if I did both...what do I run into?

Thanks in advance!
 
I lifted my burb 2.5 inches. I'm running 265/70r17 tires right now.

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You can get brake lines REALY cheap for up to a 4 inch lift in the front, go to advance auto parts and get Dorman H38620 and H38621 @ $15 each. Lifting the body can be easy, but lots of systems come into play when you do. It was much easier to simply get what ever lift you want and leave the body alone. My burb rides pretty good with the 2.5 lift, surprisingly so.
The cost between a 2,3 or 4 inch lift is nothing. Get the height you want from the start. Fine tune with zero rate blocks, and you are good to go. I need to adjust the rear shackle angle and possibly add a zero rate to mine, to get it exactly where I want it. Final adjustments are waiting for bumpers and winch before I get too tied up on stance/height.
 
If you go for a 1" lift, what sort of things come in to play? This is exactly the sort of conversation I'm looking for; thank you! I read most places that a 1" lift is no big deal.
 
The biggest headache with body lifts is all the little things like adjusting linkage for tranny and transfer case. No experience with a 1" system except on my old jeep, but even that had brakets to move the brake lines and radiator and adjusting the transfer case.
My opinion, there's probaby a bit of wear and tear on the suspension already (not sure of your total mileage), but you may be happier with replacement springs and shocks than a 1 inch body lift. Think about how old the vehicle is and how much use there has already been.. check things like brake lines and such to see if they need replacement anyway, might help your decision to do a spring lift vs body lift. Not to mention you should add the cost of bosy mounts when you do the body lift... A suspension kit may not be much more than the total cost and you get a better ride and more longevity for the future...
 
I used 1" zero rates on mine but I've heard guys with small body lifts like the easier access to stuff while working underneath the rig.
 
The 2 to 2.5 front lift springs give a good ride. The factory's are negative arch and the larger lifts get much bigger arches. I think the best riding (assuming spring rate is correct) springs are the 2.5 ones. I went 2.5 front and a 2.5 flip rear. VERY happy.
 
if i were you i'd go with 2.5" tuff country EZ ride springs up front and a 2.5" ORD shackle flip in the rear.
 
I used 1" zero rates on mine but I've heard guys with small body lifts like the easier access to stuff while working underneath the rig.

Bing bing. I don't consider the body pucks a lift so much as just clearance, and evening the body out. I did the 1" body lift and poly body mounts at the same time as mine were 40 years old and the tub wasn't remotely level left-to-right or front-to-rear :doah:

The extra bit of clearance makes getting to the gas tank and suspension and whatever else that much easier. I did have to adjust the tranny shifter, but the steering column and brake lines at the master and everything stretched just fine. I have custom bumpers, but I think an inch gap on the stockers would hardly be noticeable. It's when you get into 3"+ body lifts that you get into trouble (never mind the safety issues.)

-- A
 

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