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Super 44 Ujoints

D

Donovan

1/2 ton status
Joined
Feb 17, 2000
Posts
524
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1
Location
Arvada, CO
I can't believe know body has said anything about Jesse new ujoints he is working. He has some new pictures up at his site. <a target="_blank" href=http://www.highangledriveline.com/>http://www.highangledriveline.com/</a> I hope that they workout.
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Donovan
Nitro Fumes makes me Horrrrny
 
i have a 60. i broke the ring and pinion not the ujoints when i had a 44. i think making 'super' 44 parts is a bandaid and people should just step up. from what i here they didnt last and are still in the testing phase.
probably not what you were looking for EH.
 
Im running the dana 44 8 lug now and im really tired of breaking every shaft in it every time I go out.Step up to the d60 and maybe upgrade the shafts from there if need be!
 
If this sounds like a stupid question, I am sorry.

Why would you want stronger U-joints? In my opinion, the u-joint breaking is what saves the axle shafts. If you make the u-joint stronger, it might overcome the strength or take the shaft with it and they both break.

Only $9 Autozone axle u-joints for me. Lifetime warrenty and I can be somewhat sure they'll break before the shaft will.

What's your opinion?

If I ever broke a shaft though, even one shaft, I'd be looking for 1 ton stuff the same day.

Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
 
Unfortuntly it seems at least in my experience every time I bust a u-joint it takes one of the shafts with it. I hear the moly shafts live through u-jt breaks much better, but for the price I would just move up to a D60. If you do serious rock crawling I would step up to it anyways.

-Mikey
1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch</a>
 
What Jesse is saying is to run the Moser Shafts which is pricey but still cheaper than a Dana 60 and the Super Joints. I think if you run that setup you are going to break the hub before you break the shaft and u-joint. I really don't think I will ever go to a Dana 60 because of the weight and the most important part is the price. I guess I will find out. Also I have never ever seen a Dana 44 ring gear break. I have a freind with a 67 chevy truck with a stock Dana 44 rearend and he races it in the 1/4 mile. It has a 454 and nitrious and it has ran 10.9ET and he just finally broke the Powerlock limited slip in it. It had 19 spline Mark William axle in it. The truck weighed in at 4200lbs. So I believe in the Dana 44.

Donovan
Nitro Fumes makes me Horrrrny
 
One when I get out of college, and pay back all the money I will owe, I am going to run the ORD Chrome Moly 30 spline shafts, the super u-joint, and Warn hub fuses, and that should pretty much keep you out of the evil land of breakage. It only takes 5 minutes to change a hub fuse, and there cheap.

P.S. will the super 44 joint work in a 10 bolt?Pretty sure they will but just making sure.
 
Hub fuses work fine if the wheel is straigh, but if the wheel is turned it will snap the u joint or axle before it breakes the fuse. I personally would step up to the 1 ton if you were to spend that much money on the axles, unless you dont do hard wheeling, or your rig is super light like mine. I still have the 1/2 ton axles, but there isnt much left of my truck. No top, no doors, tailgate gutted, put cheap lightwieght japanese fenders, hood, and core support, plexyglass window etc. I am getting closer to jeeps wieght. I still will step up to 1 ton eventually though.

86Jimmy 4"&35"MTRs,87 burb 4"&35"MT,69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
 
here's the deal- we are having made a new style wheel joint to try to eliminate the cross breakage of the 297x d-44 and also the 332x d-60 joint- thus making our common breakage point the hub where it should be- This Joint Were making is not for you if you are pulverizing the needle bearings-or breaking caps- or breaking axles not the joint ? have not heard of this - hope this helps everyone see what it is were doing - Jess @ High Angle Driveline-

Owner of High Angle Driveline http://highangledriveline.com
 
I see your point, but if this new u-joint is so much stronger than the standard, then the hub fuse should go first even if the wheel is at a moderate angle. Shouldn't it? This new joint is supposed to make the hub the weak link.
 
I'm all for it, sounds like a great idea, that is long over-due.

A part time front Dana 44 R &amp; P should be able to withstand some hard/core abuse. Toss in a set of Cromo shafts, H/D steering joints, and cromo stubs. That kind of combo should be stout enuff for everything but the most agresive drivers, and eaisily handle 36" tires no prob.

<font color=green>1012</font color=green>

<font color=blue>Twiztid</font color=blue>
 
That's what I was thinkin. The biggest tires I ever would consider running on my street Blazer is 35's, but most likely I will only run 33's. I've done some good offroading on 32's and the only problem I've had is that I need more rear clearence. I bottom out the trailer hitch to often for my likeing so I think another inch on tires and a couple in lift and I'll be okay. The stock front has held 32's for years, and with all the goodies in it, it should handle some hard wheelin on 33's.
 
is the longevity thing i read on pirates correct or myth? is this still the needleless bearing idea? sorry to bug you yet again
 
i heard some maybe bad news- we have to talk to lance before i can confirm but kelly may have broken my joint -obs.7 i hear- but it was not in th rig we were suposed to be testing in- so it may not be ? too soon to tell- but i will post up if it worked or not- you can bet on that- and if they work 105.00 each red dwarf- Jess

Owner of High Angle Driveline http://highangledriveline.com
 
The majority of the time when a steering u-joint breaks, it takes out the yokes on either one or both (inner and stub shafts) of the shafts.
The best advantage I can see to a super strong u-joint, when used in conjunction to high strength shafts, is that the Warn hub fuses should always then be the weak link in the system.
I do see some disadvantages. First of all, look at the cost.....$500-$600 for shafts, $200 for the joints, and a few bucks for the fuses and you still have an axle that may need trail repairs (though replacing the hub fuses is pretty easy). Plus, they don't recommend running a Detroit Locker with the fuses, and recently I have heard that the same problem may exist with running a drop-in locker like a Lock-rite (when the fuses break they may take out the locker) which leaves you with the expensive ARB. Of course this is assuming that if you need the high strength axles and u-joints because you are running the type of terrain that requires a front locker.......... Basically you pay $700-$800 to upgrade a Dana 44 or 10-bolt.
 
My deal is that I WANT a front locker, although I may not absoultely need one all the time. I'd like an ARB. I have never seen a small block powered truck with an open diff up front break a 10 bolt or D44, but I don't doubt that it's possible. That's why I'm somewhat afraid to lock mine--I'm not going to spend $800+ on a front ARB and then start breaking axle shafts--screw that. I wouldn't really want to spend $800 to upgrade a 10 bolt or D44 either, especially when I can get spare shafts for free all day long. (I have one pair of spares right now, but if I should need more, they're easy to get a hold of).

I guess I should just live with the open front, posi rear for now. Maybe get a locker in back for a little better traction. But where I go, RPM = traction, so I'd assume that a front locker would tear up my 10 bolt quite easily. I do have a 14 bolt SF though, I doubt I'll break that in a 5,000 lb. truck. Especially when the truck it came from had first a Diesel, then a BBC.

Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
 
my truck was open in front when i ran a 44. they break easy. locker seems easier on shafts to me.
 
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