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Supplying power to those big amps?

rjfguitar

rjfguitar

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I am about to install my Arc Audio 2500 amp, Arc Audio 4050 amp,and (3) JL Audio 10"W3V2's in my K5 and I have a newer 63amp altenater and a 6 month old big 800 or 900 CC amp battery.
My question is will my stock charging system handle 1,500 watts? I obviously won't be running full power all the time or even half power probably, but will I still have problems with my lights flickering and the alt. not being able to keep up?

My guess is 63 amps isn't near enough so what should I do if it isn't? dual batteries good enough? flux capaciter? dual batteries and a bigger alt. around 100 to 140amps?
Last question. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif how many amps does it take to power 100 watts? (trying to get an idea how much power my system would use) Thanks!
 
You need a bigger alternator or a cap. I ran a small alternator like that and when I had been running the system hard and pull in to get gas.... no start after fill-up. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif I upgraded to a 100 AMP alternator and all was good. I would reccomend a cap down the road though to make your alternator last longer. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
get a 110 amp alt. I dont know if they will hook up but the newer suburbans, escalades, and other chevy suvs have a 140 amp alt in the stock. Maybe u could get one from a yard.

Nick
 
[ QUOTE ]
how many amps does it take to power 100 watts

[/ QUOTE ]

Simple answer: Watts / Volts = Amps
100 / 12 = 8.333333333

But.... amplifiers aren't 100% efficient due to heat etc so it'll take more amps to create 100 watts output. You can normally find the specs online or in the owners manual for a given amplifier on what the actual current requirements are.

That poor little 63 amp alternator won't be able to handle too much. Even in a "perfect world" it won't put out more than about 900 watts. Plus it has to run the engine, lights, etc.
 
I see all these people telling you to get the big amp altenater. I recomened having the altenater you already have modified to produce the big amps. Any altenater rebuild shop can do it, and it's alot cheaper then buying a new hi amp altenater.
 
On that note there is an altnernator shop that is selling modified altnernators for cheap. (100 amp for $70) just search for "chevy altnernators".
 
My first job was rebuilding altnernators. To get a high amp unit, all you do is swap in a larger stator and rotor. If you bring in your altnernator, most shops should do it pretty cheap.
 
I'm going to recommend the opposite of everyone else on this topic....... go with the flux, er...stiffening cap FIRST!


Here's why:

1. You're charging system is clearly NOT up to the task.

2. A larger alternator will help produce more charging power, but won't supply the instantaneous power that a stereo needs.

3. Stiffening caps are HIGH SPEED power "buffers" for the amps to drink from. The existing charging system (though admittedly weak) can trickle charge the caps and backfill what they pour into the amps during peak demand......(this is assuming as you said that you won't be cranking this thing up for LONG periods of time)

4. Eventually you WILL have to deal with an alternator swap. You're going to really work that sucker hard....and the caps will only "mask" the issue sonically (I guess visually too, you're headlights won't blink when the bass hits)
 
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What are these "CAPS" you speak of???

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Courtesy of the Greg72 photo gallery....

Power_station_final.jpg



"Caps" are capacitors.....just like you're thinking of from electronics class, or your old transistor radio.......JUST REALLY BIG!!!!

Most capacitors you've ever seen are rated in microFarads (mF), or picoFarads (pF)..... the ones in this picture are 1 FARAD each!!! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif


They will really hurt you if you short them out when they're fully charged....no joke. But they are capable of discharging WAY faster than a normal car battery does....so for musical transients (and the way amplifiers WANT their power) they are a great solution.

Lots of companies make them....maybe around $100 each???
 
i agree with greg, go with a cap first if that doesn't work go with a bigger alternator, your alternator is way to small regardless of how many caps you put in cuz your alternator still needs to recharge the caps, it all boils down to your alternator anyways but you might be able to "band-aid" the problem with a cap.. second i don't recomend having a shop rewind your alternator i'm not a pro on alternators but i think the brushes or something wear out really fast.. if i were you i'd buy a 100-120 amp from shucks with a lifetime warranty then forget about it /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif if you want i know a guy in tennesee that owns an alternator shop i could ask him how much to custom make an alternator any size you want, it'll cost anyhere from about $200-$600 depending on what you want but he makes them up to i think 300amps pm me if interested.... and he can make it internal or external regulated, and for an extra $100 he'll lifetime warranty it.. it's a steal, i got my 260 amp alt from him and it rocked,, but i sold it with my last car to buy my truck.
 
Not all Caps look like that here is a picture of my cap. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif Don't look at the stupid Boss amp on top that is long gone now.

389625_10_full.jpg
 
That's one of the 10 or 15 FARAD "bricks" I've seen around??

You'd better have a LOT of watts to make something like that worthwhile (but IIRC, you did at one point have around 20,000 watts didn't you? /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif)
 
Well I was basically thinking the same thing. A guy told me to run just a capacitor but you have to CHARGE the capacitor. I think I am going to buy a a cap., get a bigger 100 or 120 amp alt., and go dual batteries for more reasons than just the stereo. Thanks guys for the help!

Oh and to the guy with the friend in Ten. 200 to 600 is WAY too much for just an alt. in my book. I am either going to have mine rebuilt to 120amps for a $100 or order a new alt from summit for about $110.
 
Follow the instructions that come with the cap for the "initial charge"..... you will need to use an inline resistor when you first apply power to it, and you'll probably want to have a VOM attached to watch the charge it's receiving...

Once it's at a full 14.4V (or close) you can install it into it's permanent location, and remove the "charge resistor" permanently.




BTW -> If you ever want to discharge that cap safely, you will need to use that same resistor again.
 
that is only a 5 FARAD cap. Nope I wasn't the one with 20,000 watts I only only have about 2,500 watts in my setup. I think that was 4X4GUNZ(SP?) that had the 20,000 watt setup. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Well I was basically thinking the same thing. A guy told me to run just a capacitor but you have to CHARGE the capacitor. I think I am going to buy a a cap., get a bigger 100 or 120 amp alt., and go dual batteries for more reasons than just the stereo. Thanks guys for the help!

Oh and to the guy with the friend in Ten. 200 to 600 is WAY too much for just an alt. in my book. I am either going to have mine rebuilt to 120amps for a $100 or order a new alt from summit for about $110.

[/ QUOTE ]

That sounds like a good plan. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Well I was basically thinking the same thing. A guy told me to run just a capacitor but you have to CHARGE the capacitor. I think I am going to buy a a cap., get a bigger 100 or 120 amp alt., and go dual batteries for more reasons than just the stereo. Thanks guys for the help!

Oh and to the guy with the friend in Ten. 200 to 600 is WAY too much for just an alt. in my book. I am either going to have mine rebuilt to 120amps for a $100 or order a new alt from summit for about $110.

[/ QUOTE ]

That sounds like a good plan. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
Thank you. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
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