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"suprise" I burned up the mile marker!?!?!

What 12000 winch would you choose?

  • Mile Marker

    Votes: 7 5.8%
  • Warn

    Votes: 103 85.1%
  • Superwinch

    Votes: 1 0.8%
  • Ramsey

    Votes: 5 4.1%
  • Tmax

    Votes: 5 4.1%

  • Total voters
    121

Blue90

1/2 ton status
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Aug 27, 2004
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Knee deep snow and open diff front and rear = separating the china built wenches from the rest...So having that said, what 12000lb winch would you get?:confused:
 
Warn, without hesitation. Period.

I own two 8k Warns, both well over 20 yrs old and used. If they both burn up tomorrow I'd buy more.
 
Warn, without hesitation. Period.

I own two 8k Warns, both well over 20 yrs old and used. If they both burn up tomorrow I'd buy more.

What he said. :D My 8274 I just put on my truck hasn't had power ran to it in 8 years and sat outside uncovered on my brother's old truck that whole time. All I did to it was replace two of the remote wires in the control box, cleaned the leaves and spider webs out and off of it, shot a squirt of grease in the zirk fitting on the back, hooked it up and it runs like a new one. My M8k I have on the back was almost the same way except it's been in the garage for the past 6 years. Hooked it up and it still works like a champ. Though I may have to get a new solenoid for it. Sometimes it wants to click when being wound in. Warn is still worth every penny IMHO. :bow:
 
I am pretty sure everyone is going to vote warn on this, its kind of a pointless poll though, if you have the money get the warn no doubt about it. While everyone considers the mm to be a peice of crap I have been pulled out by one several times. The only mm I would get would be a 12000 lb as with the t max.
 
Gotta ask...what size was your mm? Now I have a question of my own. My dad gave me some money toward one of the 10k units from Harbor Freight. It is my understanding that these units are rebuild milemarkers. Anyone know if that's true?
 
Don't waste ANY of your money (or your dads) on harbor freight winches. Warn or nothing for me.
 
I just bought my first winch, a used 8K Warn complete with homemade heavy duty diamond plate bumper/mount that'll bolt straight up to my truck for $600. It's got the old cable inside controls instead of electrical. The guy I bought it from was probably mid-70's, lifetime hunter/bushman, and when he saw my crewcab he started telling stories about the old chev's he had and hunting trips etc. Must have been there for nearly two hours listening to stories and looking at some of his trophy mounts. I figure I got my money's worth even without the winch:bow: Nice to know I bought the right kind though . . .
 
Mile Marker hydraulic. I want a winch that can pull it's max rating for more than 30 seconds without overheating.
 
Knee deep snow and open diff front and rear = separating the china built wenches from the rest...So having that said, what 12000lb winch would you get?:confused:

This makes me ask what model of winch you had? What was its rating and how much did you have in your truck?

Here is why I ask..... based on what you posted the min you needed was 200% of the load weight (roughly 16,000 lbs if you were on flat surface).

OK after watching a bumper get ripped off a truck this weekend. I thought I would bring this back into focus. Read it; learn it; live it!


Originally Posted by Metrodps
First you need to be absolutely sure that EVERY single piece of equipment used in the task is strong enough and will not fail and thereby endanger life and limb. Hooks should be pointing up that way if they come off they go down. Realize, that for reasons of practicality and economics, your 4x4 recovery equipment is almost certainly undersized.....you can still do the job, using the correct techniques, but you will be much SAFER if you keep this in mind.


[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]1) Most people are terrible at actually estimating the gross weight of their rig as it sits on the trail, full of gas, tools, equipment, food, camping gear, people, the dog...everything. Heck, in some cases the real figure can actually exceed the GVWR of the vehicle. Simple advice here - either err WAY on the heavy side, or get your rig weighed in trail trim.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica][FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]2) More importantly, the "effective weight" of a "stuck" 4x4 is very often FAR more than 1.5 times the GVW. The following data on how to more accurately estimate the "effective weight", is taken from the world of professional heavy recovery - the guys that recover Tractor-trailers that have flipped on their side for instance, as well as U.S., Canadian, and UK Military recovery manuals.[/FONT]
[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica][FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]Once you have accurately estimated or measured the trucks loaded weight (LW) you can calculate the resistance to be overcome in any recovery situation (this is commonly known as the ROLLING resistance). There are 4 types of resistance that must be accounted for to accurately assess the resistance that must be overcome. These are surface resistance, damage resistance, mire (stuck) resistance and grade (slope) resistance. Calculate them all as follows: [/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica][FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica][FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]Surface resistance[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]A pull of 1/10 LW will cause a free wheeling truck to move on a hard, level surface.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]A pull of 1/3 LW will cause a free wheeling truck to move on a softer surface, such as grass or gravel,
[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]Damage resistance:[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]A pull of 2/3 LW will be required to move if the wheels cannot rotate (as if the brakes were fully applied), the pull required to overcome the resistance (drag) the truck id 2/3 or 67% of the LW. Damage resistance includes surface resistance (i.e. you only use one or the other)[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]Stuck (mire) resistance:[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]A pull of 100% of LW will be required if the truck is stuck to a depth of the sidewall on the tires.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]A pull of 200% of LW will be required if the truck is stuck to the hubs.
A pull of 300% of LW will be required if the truck is stuck to the frame..
Mire resistance includes damage resistance (i.e. you only use one or the other)
[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]Grade (slope) resistance:[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]Upgrade (vehicle has to be recovered up a slope or grade)[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]15 degrees - add 25% of LW[/FONT]​
[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]30 degrees - add 50% of LW
45 degrees - add 75% of LW
Vehicle recovery on level ground - no correction

Downgrade (vehicle has to be recovered down a slope or grade)

15 degrees - subtract 25% of LW
30 degrees - subtract 50% of LW
45 degrees - subtract 75% of LW




[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]Final figure:[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]Add surface or damage or mire resistance and grade resistance, and this is your final figure or rolling resistance. This is the amount of pull the winch must apply in order to recover the stuck vehicle.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]Here is the military approach.[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]
surfaceresistance1.jpg
[/FONT]​

[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]
gradiantresistance1.jpg
[/FONT]​

[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]The way to attack the situation. Using this method you can free a Hummer buried up to its axles Thanks to Mike Rowe and Dirty jobs.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]
stuckexample.jpg
[/FONT]​

[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]If you want to read on recovery operations search for:[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]FM 9-43-2, Recovery and Battlefield Damage Assessment and Repair.[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]​
 
I have a 9000lbs warn on my k5. It hasn't let me down yet! Even got to winch a jeep out with it two weeks ago... one of the proudest moments of my life!
 
Twas a mm 9500 and it the truck was buried in a hella deep snow drift.

scout 032.jpg
 
I have a Warn 12k on my truck and I like it alot. I got it WELL used from a friend of mine and it still pulls HARD. I have made more then a few heavy pulls with it and it has never let me down.

It is very slow but it pulls very hard. I am sold on Warn winches being the best electic winches hands down. To many of my friends run them and run them hard and have great results with them.

I have seen Warn winches beat on heavily and came back for more, and I can't say the same about some of the other brands.

Harley
 
I have a mile marker 12k and it works great. This weekend I pulled a new FJ that was past the hubs in mud. I pulled it sideways to get a better angle then strait back. I actually had to get my k10 stuck and tie up to another k5 because I was being pulled toward the FJ.

The winch sounds like crap and I recently fried my OUT solenoid after sitting in water for too long, but it's a monster. Plus, when I busted the motor and gear casings and the brake after my spotter didn't point out that the cable was bunching up on one side, MM sent me all of the new parts for free. Not only did I get the parts, they also sent me the parts for a 12k instead of the original 9.5K. If you’re still with in the 1 year warranty, I would give them a call.
 
warn all the way if you want electric, but I run a hydro MM 1200 and I dont think I will ever go back. There are pro and cons, but for the most part im on the same page as max. Mine has never given me issues or thought about getting hot.
 
Ive run a m12000 for 7 trouble free years. My m15000 has been totally abused and still kicking ass, going on for 3 years now. Do what it takes to step up to a WARN winch. Just like 1 ton axles, do it once and be done.
 
well im a warn fan as much as the next guy...but i just purchased a 16,500lb superwinch n am anxious to try it out...the cost was about $500 less than the warn so it was a no brainer...a friend of mine has a 9500lb superwinch n has pulled me out buried over the pumpkins several times n his is ten years old so ill try my luck with this one n keep ya'll posted on the results...also, may want 2 get a snatch to aid n ur recovery efforts next time...less strain on ur winch n double the pullin power...just my .02
 
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