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Suspension Basics II, Real Deal Stuff!

Gravel Maker

1/2 ton status
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Feb 6, 2006
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The last one of these got alot of interest so here is another, this one isn't really the second level, actually we are getting into the advanced area on some of these Brackets......as my competitor likes to say, bombs away!:haha:

Antiwrap/Traction Bar Brackets......A new twist on an old theory. The old theory being that they should be more or less vertical in use, Wrong! They can be vertical but the only thing that really matters is the seperation between points. No matter where you mount the ends you are still holding the traction bar fixed around a central point (the axle center), so this System allows for the old way of mounting nearly vertical OR allows you to lay back the bracket for the all important clearance issue while adding rigidity to the Traction Bar ends which are constantly trying to move closer to each other. We go the additional step for you by making the basic plates 3/8" thick. The optional side plates are 1/4" thick and are recomended whether you lay back or run vertical, the stiffness they add is unbeatable. These are the Brackets only, You need to determine just how long your traction bar needs to be, we can't do that for you, it is going to be different on every setup. We sell these as Main plates only, Main and Stiffeners, and complete with 2" x 1/4" wall DOM, bushings, sleeves and bolts.
tbarbrackets.jpg

tbarinside.jpg

tbarsetup.jpg

Pretty simple setup, just approached from a new direction!

Inner Frame Link Brackets.......This has been a problem area for everyone forever, We have the solution. And this solution will work for everyone from the big Dollar Rock Racer to the normal guy building his first linked suspension. These are made to stay made out of 3/8" A50 Plate bent 3 ways. They will fit every joint from an EVO (in the pic without Hi-miss spacers) on down, they are drilled for a 9/16" hole so you can fit them to what you are using and the are adjustable so you can fit whatever joint and missalignment you want before you weld them to the final width. These are available in a 0 degree, 10 degree(shown), and a 22 degree angle. Of course, a little time with a grinder can fine tune them to what you want. Take a look and you decide.
framebrackett.jpg

Chassis Link Brackets and Tabs.......These Brackets and Tabs are for when you can't go inside or outside the frame to get the links out of the target area. We have been making these for quite some time now and are very satisfied with them. Simply put, they work! the Bracket comes with a ramp for helping slide over the rocks and isn't so abrupt that you hang up anyway. The Tabs, and I hate calling anything 3/8" of an inch thick that weighs almost a pound a "tab", are made to take a beating in those places you can't use the bracket (lots of people use these as Panhard mounts too).
underframelarge-nw-1.jpg

underframemount.jpg

Anyway, you can see we don't mess around when it comes to making the kind of stuff you want on your rig and sometimes a new approach is the right approach:smokin: ! And remember that the CK510 discount is good on everything we make, 10% off dosen't suck.....
 
Give me a call when you can.....

SCOOBYDANNN said:
dan, dan, dandandan----were gonna have to have a talk.:ooo:

We are getting alot of calls on these, seems we hit the nail right on the head with these!:laugh:
 
Got a question on IH8MUD worth sharing.....

Mace said:
Dan, Can you give me the dimensions on these (PM will be fine) I want to know if they will work with the existing link location in the front of my rig. I love the way you designed these.

That and if they will fit with RE joints :D
framebrackett.jpg

The first possible point of contact is 1.7" from link pin centerline, and if something larger than a JJ or EVO link comes out the material is 3/8" thick so additional clearance can be made. We used Summit can joints and EVO Big joints to assure fit of anything.

The clearance laterally to the frame is 3.2" for the 10 & 22 Degree Brackets and 3.5" for the 0 degree, this is from the inside bracket face, where your missalignment would begin. This can also be made larger by trimming the tail of the adjustable part for as much as you want. The 0 degree bracket has more due to the need for space for a nut. This clearance is prior to you setting the width you desired for Your Particular joint, you are not locked into a particular width! They come with a 2" x 3/16" "washer" so you can drill a hole for clearance of the bolt and then reinforce the hole! All of the holes are 9/16" as a starting point.

To install them, set-up your missalignment and joint in the bracket, bolt them in, weld the adjustable end, drill a hole if neccessary in the frame and install reinforcement, then weld on the bracket! Pretty simple.

Thanks for asking Mace, I should have made it more clear at the start
 
I didn't realize we had hit such a highnote with these.....

Both the Antiwrap and the 3 Legged Links are quickly becoming some of our best sellers, send us some pics when you get them installed.....
 
Working on Suspension Basics III


Give me a few days, going to highlite a couple of new things and a couple of staples......And those of you with shops remember, we wholesale too!:wink1:
 
You guys need to take a look here.....

These were made with fullsize in mind, these can take the abuse a fullsize rig can dish out.....
 
I will post some of the new pics tommorrow or Sunday

I think Trevor from WFO is using the 3 legged on his brothers GMC......Maybe I will stop by tommorrow and take some pics!
 

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