Suspension Help Wanted

[Teck]

I don't want to put the body lift back on my blazer. It has 8" skyjacker spring on all 4 corners now, but need aleast 3" more to keep the tires from hitting the new fenders. I want to do a shakle filp and zero rates in the rear. The issuse I have is what to do in the front, zero rates, longer shakles and or lower front hangers.

Does anyone make new front hanger that will lower the monting point and how will this effect the drivability? What does anyone think would be the best way to do this?
This is how it is without the body lift

 

[sweetk30]

if you want a nice clean bolt on look / fit / function i would call kirt at diy4x and have him make you a set of brackets like his b52 kit but give you a little lift and bolt in with stock springs. just a idea.

 

[dfl701]

if you want a nice clean bolt on look / fit / function i would call kirt at diy4x and have him make you a set of brackets like his b52 kit but give you a little lift and bolt in with stock springs. just a idea.

yea thats the way to go. i guess trimming is out of the question

 

[MTBLAZER89]

I would pay the $$ to have a body guy open up the fender openings. 3" more lift and you'll still probably rub when turning if you hit a good bump.

It's just the nature of GM fender openings and big tires.

My .02

 

[throttleissues]

Shoulda just gotten some flared 'glass fenders so it wouldn't have to be so far above the tires. I still prefer the butchered look.

 

[Chevy305]

Ya I agree with looking into the B52 swap. Also I say to put in the 1" ORD body lift in because it doesn't really effect the body and handling like a 3" lift would.

 

[Teck]

Yeah no trimming on these fender. If it was a beater it would not matter.

 

[Corey 78K5]

You should be fine on the front with some longer shackles, zero rates and a ORD 1" body lift.

 

[6.2Blazer]

I'm guessing the problem is the tires hitting lower back portion of the fenders when turning and hitting a bump? That's based on the really wide tires and rims exaggerating this issues.

Assuming you currently have standard "stock" style front lift springs I think a zero-rate would do wonders with the axle moved forward either 1-1.5". Moving the axle forward allows more clearance than lifting does.

If it takes at least a moderate amount of flex to get rubbing than in this application you could probably also lower the bump stops, thus limiting upward travel, on the springs.......doesn't look this truck would ever be in a situation that truly needed the extra spring travel.

 

[Teck]

No it won't or shouldn't ever need to flex alot. It had 11" of total lift when I use to drive it and they still rub the back of the fender just a little on hard turn in a dip. I do think moving the axle forward would help, but I just want to get it back to the height it was without the body lift, and not mess up those new GM fenders that were put on when it was painted

 

[6.2Blazer]

I bet the zero-rates w/ axle moved forward would cure the issue if it's pretty minor. Next step would be a 1" body lift.

Longer front shackles are not really meant to increase lift height, rather just fine tune for flex and spring to frame clearance. To put on a long enough front shackle to make any appreciable different in lift height then it will start messing with the steering angles/alignment.

 

[sweetk30]

dont forget new spring plates for the off set axle location. or redrill yours. but i like the bolt on and go method.