Suspension Issues?

[dvldog 70k5]

Ok I am tired of lookin for my thread on what to do to help fix the sag in my rear end. This week has been especialy rough and for those of you who dont know why, it's because I was recently shot in Iraq this past December and tryin to make a better recovery more and more every day.

I posted pics of my 70 Blazer after the lift and I went with a 6" spring up front and a 8" in the rear from Tough Country and the rear still sags about an 1.5". I just dont get why. What can I do to pick up the rear end that wont cost a fortune? I didnt really want to lift it with a block after putting money in to new spring packs. I remember someone saying I could use a longer shackle, or a zero rate spring?? If I purchase a set of shackles how much and where do I get them from? Also what is a zero rate spring and again where can I get it and how much. I dont have a lot of time to read the forums so I hope I can get some quick help. Thanks alot guys

Nick

 

[ryoken]

you could either go 0 rate for 1 or a flip for 2.5, your choice.. ORD has both.. flip will be more time consuming and expensive..

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero%20Rates.htm

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm

thanks so much for your service.. i hope your recovery goes well...

 

[Greg72]

Nick,

First off, sorry to hear about getting shot....that's downright scary!

As for the saggy butt, there are a couple of things to consider:

1. Optical illusion - The Blazers have a different and lower wheel opening on the rear fenders than they do up front. This tends to make the truck "look" lower in the back even if it's not. The way to be sure is to lay one of those angle protractors along the bedrail and measure the angle you have. Mine had about a 1-degree forward rake when I finally got the "look" I wanted.

2. Shackles - Going with a longer rear shackle is a good idea for a couple of reasons. The factory one isn't very long to begin with, so you won't be able to fully utilize the flex of a softer spring out back until the shackle really lets the spring flatten-out completely. Secondly, a shackle is a pretty simple item to swap in so you can do the experiment without wasting much time unbolting u-bolts, leafsprings, etc.

3. Zero-rates - If you truly are sittling low by 1.5", you will probably need to consider BOTH a longer shackle and a rear zero rate, since even a longer shackle will typically only "net" you about 1" of additional lift.


Hope that helps, and stay safe!!!

 

[mr_blasto]

3. Zero-rates - If you truly are sittling low by 1.5", you will probably need to consider BOTH a longer shackle and a rear zero rate, since even a longer shackle will typically only "net" you about 1" of additional lift.

How does that work out ? ORD says a shackle flip will give you 4 inches of lift, yet you claim it is only a net gain of 1" of additional lift. I am not saying you are wrong cause I know that you really know your stuff. I am just trying to make sense of this all. I am about to put a shackle flip on my k5, so I am a little concerned.

 

[Greg72]

How does that work out ? ORD says a shackle flip will give you 4 inches of lift, yet you claim it is only a net gain of 1" of additional lift. I am not saying you are wrong cause I know that you really know your stuff. I am just trying to make sense of this all. I am about to put a shackle flip on my k5, so I am a little concerned.

Ok, a little clarification here.....

A longer shackle will only help if you've ALREADY installed a shackle flip. After re-reading the original post, it looks like the rear is lifted with an 8" spring, and NOT with any sort of shackle flip....so a longer shackle would actually make the truck sit LOWER!!!! Sorry 'bout that.

Once you've got the shackle flip installed....playing around with longer shackles is a simple and relatively cheap way to get the ride height perfect.