CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

suspension lift question

Florida K5

Registered Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2011
Posts
72
Reaction score
0
Location
Florida
I have a 1987 k5 and want to put 8" suspension what is the most cost effective way to go and still ride somewhat comfortable? also I want to run 38-39's will this lift accomodate this size tire?
 
Are you willing to trim the fenders? If so, how much?

4" is enough to fit 40's, it all depends on what you're willing to do to get there.

That said, for 8" of lift - front lift springs + rear shackle flip + smaller rear lift springs. Don't forget steering upgrades like crossover to make it drive decently.
 
not sure about the trimming or not haven't really thought about it... who is a good company to buy the springs and such from?
 
How much you're willing to trim makes a ton of difference on how much lift you'll require.

As for brands, when you get to 8" you narrow the market a lot. I think Skyjacker and Superlift are probably it. Tuff Country is a great brand with a great ride but I think they stop at 6".

Check out a thread at the top of this forum called "how will my truck look with xx lift and xx tires". There's TONS of pics to give you ideas about the amount of lift and degree of trimming.
 
of course, the other question is, what is it you're trying to do, and do you NEED 8in of lift. EDIT - sorry, breezed through the first post and missed the defined tire size.

see existing posts.
 
If I went with a 6 inch lift would I still have to mess with the extended brake lines? is there a rule of thumb on how much fendered trimming would need to be done to clear the size tires that I want with a 6 inch lift?
 
to my limited knowledge, 4in lift is usually what you can get away with, without complications. 6in lift will need brake lines, may impact driveline vibrations, should get some sort of steering correction, and longer shocks.

with a 4in lift, Ive heard you can get away without doing anything else, but you should probably do longer shocks and some sort of steering correction.

I have never played with trimming so I cant answer that for you.
 
to my limited knowledge, 4in lift is usually what you can get away with, without complications. 6in lift will need brake lines, may impact driveline vibrations, should get some sort of steering correction, and longer shocks.

with a 4in lift, Ive heard you can get away without doing anything else, but you should probably do longer shocks and some sort of steering correction.

I have never played with trimming so I cant answer that for you.

With 4" of lift the shocks won't reach at all (stock shocks only have 4-6" of travel), the brakelines will reach as long as you don't turn the steering wheel or let the suspension move any :eek1:

2" of lift is about all you can get away with using the stock brake lines, shocks are really required with 2" of lift or more.
 
6" vs 4" the basic difference is sometimes you need to extend your drivelines.

Like Chris said with a 4" your stock brakelines are s t r e t c h e d out.

If you want a semi comfortable ride IMHO there are 3 ways to go.

Most expensive and best link it and use coils or coilovers.

Second best option custom springs. Not nearly as expensive as you think.

Third use a B-52 kit get some 4" lift rear springs ( 52" long) put those in front, shackle flip along with some lift springs in the rear.

If you do an 8" lift right, you need quite a bit of stuff, but done with custom springs or the longer springs in the front its going to ride way nicer than with some off the shelf lift spring
 
How much total lift will I have with the B-52 option ^^^^^^?

When used on the front, 52" springs net 4" of additional lift over whatever the springs are rated for (4" springs = 8" lift).
 
I had 8" lift on my old k20. I used superlift front springs, ord shackle flip + 4" block in the rear. The front springs were stiff, as can be expected. I had to get both drivelines extended and some work done to clearance the front cv for more angle. Also needed, raised steering arm, drop pitman arm, brake hoses, 4 new shocks, and a swaybar disco kit. Never could figure out a good way to re-connect the e-brake cables, and in the end my 35's still hit the front fenders every now and then.

Sent from my BlackBerry 9810 using Tapatalk
 
Just to say it out loud, if you go the B52 route then crossover steering is needed which prevents the use of the factory sway bar.
 
Top Bottom