What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Suspension links and all that great stuff...(posted also in ORD forum)

For some reason, I think we're talking about two different things. The way I'm talking about is to have 4 heims on each arm: 1 at the frame, 2 on the axle, and one where the lower link connects to the control arm. My drawing doesn't show this. It would be like running two links on each side, but having only one long arm and just a shorter one connected to the top. In my mind, it would keep the same pinion angle throughout the suspension arc, but would necessitate using a panhard bar.

I've been trying to find that magazine which has this type of arm on a WJ, but I can't. Maybe I can draw you a better picture or find a picture of something similar on the net.
 
Here's what I'm talking about. I know it's a small picture, but you can clearly see what I'm thinking of. He even rolled the Heep for ya too!
p84964_image_large.jpg


See both sides have this kind of link that I'm referring to.

If the picture doesn't show up for ya, go here: Jeep Flop, then scroll down to the one that starts off as Team 113, Dave Knight.
 
Looks like willys already got you covered. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
It's sorta like the old pickups your talking about. But, a better example is found on the Mogs. Basically, the axle is mounted rigidly to link that attaches to the equivalent of a ball-and-socket mounting point at the output of the tcase. This locates the axle except for side loads which are handled by a track bar. This requires a CV shaft since the axle is mounted rigidly to the link so the lower joint angle never changes relative to the shaft...
 
The problem with that type of suspension (a non-wristed radius arm) is that it depends on flex in the bushings (notice that he is using bushings...not heims) to articulate. If you build it with heims put huge loads into the arms.

Try this...
Put your arms out in front of you. Now lower your right arm and raise your left arm. Notice that your right hand goes into negative "caster" and your left hand positive "caster". Now what if there was a axle between your hands? The axle would either have to twist (which isn't easy for it to do...and when it does it is because of a broken weld), the mounts would have to rotate about the axle, or your wrist would have to bend. The longer you make the arms the less twist you have to account for but it will ALWAYS be there (and so you could NEVER use heims at the axle end).

This is why it is a poor design (as I explained above) and also why it acts as a "sway-bar"...the bushings are your swaybar. If you wrist one of the arms you don't have to worry about the twist...just strange handling problems.
 
Then why not put a pivot (or swivel, whichever you wanna call it) design into the ends of the single arm on the frame? The arm could rotate 360 degrees. That way, you could use either bushings or Johnny joints on the axle and the movement would come from the opposite end.

I don't know. From what it looks like right now, I'm going to have to mock build each design on a jig, then see which offers the best control and flex, while keeping the caster and pinion angle fairly consistent at the extreme ranges of the suspension arc.

If I can't get this figured out, it looks like the 3 link design will be my only choice. Now another arguement, long or short arm? /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
 
If you go 3 link make them as long as you can make the top link, and make them all the same length.

If you go radius arms (against my sugestions ) make them go all the way to the center of the truck (that will make them suck less /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif)
 
Also, as far as your jig idea goes. Thats good for getting a good moving suspension with no bind. But the handling parts will not show up on a jig. They won't show up till your under power. You should come up with a design your happy with, then just sketch it to scale on a piece of paper form the side view. Also draw your tires on there and find your center of gravity. Using this paper you can find out your anti-squat percentage as well as your instant center. All this is explained in the book I mentioned which I picked up on amazon.com.
 
I love threads like. Even if I don't understand it all! I like hearing what different ppl have to say and just learning new things in general. If you'll excuse me, I'm off to the garage to build a 305. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
If you'll excuse me, I'm off to the garage to build a 305.

[/ QUOTE ]

Please say you're doing something more than a stock rebuild.

Aight guys. [rant] My brain is fried, solitare just got boring, MONSTER GARAGE SUCKS, and I want to kill that Michelle Spazzoid trick on TNN that has killed all of the good shows on Sunday. [/rant]

Now about these arms on this 3 LINK, go with the weld in tube adapters, or just thread the pipe.

Also, would you go with Eibach springs or just any generic spring?
 
<font color="blue">Get the weld-in adapters, it'll make things much easier. Oh and dont use pipe. Have you decided which confguration you're going with (sorry I just skimmed through this)? My 4-link (rear not front) will look like this |\/| with the uppers angled in towards the axle and the lowers parallel with the frame.
 
very interesting article, regardless of what it was written about. and it's easy enough for me to understand as well. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
that style still requires the links to deflect to provide roll(refered to as articulationon PBB and here).
if you look at the vehicles that use that style from the factory they use huge rubber bushings to allow roll with the bind.

perhaps if we can get Triaged to explain the detailed pros and cons of a similar design but with a wishbone upper we can find out the real deal.
I was told that it also binds in roll but I have not done the math to see if I believe that, at first I thought it would roll as freely as a 3 link with seperate lateral locating device.

I guess with the long tubular arms on these trucks there is a ton of room for deflection, but I would still like to see guys try and quantify the roll resistance something like MaximumMotorsports did with the Fox Mustang rear suspension.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom