Suspension Question - Good Or Bad Idea

[4wheelin4Jesus]

I know that here in North Carolina that we have a bad reputation about rigging stuff up. But, I was trying to solve a problem, and wondered if this is a good solution. I installed a 6 inch lift on my blazer. Of course, the rear of the vehicle sags about 2 inches. So, I installed blocks under the suspension. After research, I noticed that this isnt a great idea because the suspension can come loose from the blocks. To solve the 2 inch sagging problem in the rear, can i keep the blocks, and weld them to the suspension mounts on the rear end? Will this solve the problem with blocks. Please look at the picture below.
thanks,
Mike

 

[big83chevy4x4]

ive never heard of blocks making the suspention coming loose because of blocks. if it did, then they shouldn't be selling them as they would be unsafe. you do have to retorque the ubolts after installing them, but that is with or without blocks.
the only problem with blocks is that they allow more leverage on the springs and multiply axle wrap.

 

[6.2puller]

The blocks multiply the results of springs loosening but that is because the two pins both have a little slop. So in theory you would eliminate one of those by welding the block. It can't hurt but you still have to keep an eye on those Ubolts because if they loosten at all the added wrap from the block is going to sheer that spring pin fast like.

 

[4wheelin4Jesus]

thank you all for your replies. I am also going to be fabricating an anti-wrap bar. i guess from what you all said, the only problem left for me would be the pin between the block, and the spring?

 

[6.2puller]

And that would only be a problem IF the Ubolts loosten and you DON"T check them. I have seen a few people tack weld the nut/washer to the spring plate when they were having issues with the Ubolts loosening. I have never had a problem personally and have run blocks. I have always just torqued the Ubolts and then re torqued them after say 500miles of driving.

 

[sledheadak]

this summer i saw 2 sets of blocks coome out.both times if broke the pinion yoke an 1 time broke the drive shaft yoke.that being said i have run block on many rigs and never had a problem but i do check and make sure my ubolts are tight on a regular basis.as long as you make sure the ubolts are tight you will have no problems with them coming out.you biggest concern would be the added leverage adding to spring wrap esp with big tires.

 

[79k20350]

why not just put a 2" shackle flip on. Better ride, articulation, and best of all, NO FLUCKIN BLOCKS!

 

[sweetk30]

big problem i see is 2 diffrent kinds of metel. 1 is steel and other is cast iron.


just keep a eye on them. i have never had a problem my self. and 2" blocks arnt that bad.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

I dont see a problem, other than the fact that blocks kinda suck, and later when you wanna get rid of them, it will suck to get them out.

 

[Corey 78K5]

Unless You know Your stuff I would avoid welding the two diffrent metals together. The problem is Your springs are worn out. You could intall an add-a-leaf to give them some new life.

 

[4wheelin4Jesus]

thank you for the advice. i totally forgot about them being 2 different metals. ive welded for years, and did some work with cast, and it is really a challenge to weld. 79k20350 encouraged me to look into a shackle flip. I have one question on the flip tho. I saw that Offroad design offers a shackle flip. The add says that it has a 2 1/2" and 4" lift. I have a 6" suspension lift with 2" blocks in the rear to make up for the 2" sag that blazers have. Will that 2 1/2 shackle flip allow me to remove the blocks, and solve my problem?
Any help would be appreciated.
thanks.

 

[muddybuddy]

sure will do it, ull be much happier, or you could try a zero-rate in the rear, also from offroad design, alot cheaper too if $$ is the issue. its only 1" tho, might be enough

 

[sweetk30]

the flips ride nicer also.