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Suspension Questions

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frikenwoodro

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Truck 87 Chevy lwb
14ff 10bolt front 4:10s
Goodyear 37s [35"]
Doing a 56 In the front with 7" shackles I made of plate steel
I shackle flipped the rear and I plan on making them 56s as well
What size brake lines do I need?
What size shocks do I need?
Its going to be a duel purpose rig
Should I go crossover or high steering?
I have read that I shouldn't waste my money on doing steering upgrades on the 10bolt and that I should upgrade to the dana 60
Is this true?
I have and am still "searching".
I know that I shouldn't skimp on steering I could have left it alone but I don't wanna get ****ed later on when I'm wheeling so I took it into consideration.
I'm sure there have been posts and I been readin them all night.
 
I have recently done similar mods to my K30 (56"/64"), so this is my 2cents:

The best way to determine shock-lenghts is to measure while its fully compressed and fully extended.
One way to do this is to first install brake-lines so its drivable, take at least 28" (32" to be safe).
Then try to flex the hell out of it on a rock or something, and measure.
Add an inch to both extended and collapsed length to be sure.
On second thought, add a couple of inches to extended length, since flexing doesn't extend the shocks to the max (If you ever get air-born :wink1:)
You will probably need to move the front upper shockmounts upwards.

You will definitly need cross-over steering with the amount of flex you get from the 56" springs.
High-steer could be good if you plan on rock-crawling alot (saves the tie-rod)

Whether or not this is worth doing on a 10bolt, I don't know.
I guess it depends on if you think you will want bigger tires in the future.
 
So drive it With out shocks to a place where I can flex it? Sounds Like that would be fun. I was just gonna buy really long shocks. Then again I have no idea what Im doing when it comes to that. Ill take your advice.

I think Im gonna go with a 60 because I plan on maybe going with bigger tires in the future. And why do it twice? right??
 
THe issue with really long shocks is that they limit your travel. If you have too long a shock, it will be too compressed at the neutral height, and will not be able to compress far. Go with what was suggested above and measure.

And really, driving it a little bit without shocks won't be that bad. Will be a little floaty, and will continue to rock a while after a bump, but should be ok.
 
With as bad as my shocks were It would prolly be better! What year and truck should I look for a d60 in? any tips on getting a good one?
 
And also whats with the high price of the crossover steering kit anyways? How hard and what materel do I need to "make" my own setup? Im on a budget. I mean there is only 5pcs and I love to support the little guys[diy4x ord] and what not but dam!
 
not hard but the parts have to be heat treated when makeing steering parts or they will brake.
 
I'm making everthing myself, except for the pitman-arm.
I don't think the steering arm needs hardening.
It think it will be stronger than the original cast one anyway
 
Will you give me a list of materials and what not that youve done so far? I plan on going to the "u-pull it" this weekend for a 2wd steering box and pitman arm
 
The steering arm is being made from a piece of 1.25"x3.5"x10" scrap iron from my friends work.
I will use it over the original knuckle-cap.

I have not deceided on, or found proper tubing material for the drag-link yet.
But I will use the original draglink-ends (DRE).
I will also use two "draglink-connectors" (not sure about the correct term, but I mean the piece that connects the original two DREs)
Then I will weld one of them to each end of the new draglink-tube.

You will need a dropped pitman-arm from a ford also (the chevy 2wd one doesn't work).
But be sure to order it from a place that offers it with taper for Chevy DRE. Original ford doesn't fit.
The drop is needed to clear the engine cross-member.

One more note about the steering arm:
Don't make the arm to long.
I've seen drawings on-line that have up to 8" from knuckle center to DRE center.
You won't be able to steer lock to lock with that.
If the steering-box bottoms out before the adjusting screws on the knuckles, it will soon be ruined.
I think 6" is better, but the best way is to measure how much throw your steeringbox gives, and calculate the arm-length from that

If I could i would post a link to my build-thread, but unfortunatly this forum doesn't allow that.
 
Sorry, didn't think of that.
It's sent now.

It's in swedish, but there are a lot of pictures (not so many of the crossover yet though).
I you have any questions, ask away!
 
frikenwoodro said:
Truck 87 Chevy lwb
14ff 10bolt front 4:10s
Goodyear 37s [35"]
Doing a 56 In the front with 7" shackles I made of plate steel
I shackle flipped the rear and I plan on making them 56s as well
What size brake lines do I need?
What size shocks do I need?
Its going to be a duel purpose rig
Should I go crossover or high steering?
I have read that I shouldn't waste my money on doing steering upgrades on the 10bolt and that I should upgrade to the dana 60
Is this true?
I have and am still "searching".
I know that I shouldn't skimp on steering I could have left it alone but I don't wanna get ****ed later on when I'm wheeling so I took it into consideration.
I'm sure there have been posts and I been readin them all night.
Click to expand...

Should find lots of info on here about all your questions. 52's/56's are a popular mod.

For shocks I would say look for something in the 14-15 inch travel range. I use almost all of a 15" shock with 52's.

Brake lines as mentioned above in the 30" range are mandatory.

Crossover is another mandatory mod to make this suspension worthwhile. Hi-steer is a nice addition, but not required. Start with crossover, and add a driver side arm at a later time if you want.

My .02 on steering is just fork out the $$ for a steering arm. Building one out of plate steel isn't the right way. The TRE will be at a horrible angle sitting at ride height. When the pass side droops it will max out that TRE. Thats why steering arms are machined at an angle.

I actually used my 10b crossover stuff on my 60 when I swapped. Some folks haven't been able to, but even if you can't that kind of stuff is pretty easy to re-sell. If you plan on going to a 60 I wouldn't dump a ton of money into a 10b, but without the steering upgrades you won't be able to use that flexy suspension to its ability so it's a toss up there. Invest and sell when you upgrade, or just add a 60 to the do now list:D

I think a 10b will be ok with those tires if you don't lock it and don't abuse it needlessly. I wheeled with 37's on a 10b for years and only broke a few shafts.

Check out Sky's kit
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=173

$375 for the kit isn't a bad price. All you will need to install it is flat top knuckles from a 77ish or earlier Dana 44.

Another option if you can get the draglink made local for a decent price is buy the steering arm for $99 find a Superlift 1104 pitman arm, and get the 1 ton TRE's and piece it together that way.

Like I said just my opinion, but it is steering after all and you are going to be driving it on the street. Getting all new properly built stuff is important for safety reason, and it will drive sooo much nicer.
 
:eek1:

MTBLAZER89 said:
Should find lots of info on here about all your questions. 52's/56's are a popular mod.

For shocks I would say look for something in the 14-15 inch travel range. I use almost all of a 15" shock with 52's.

Brake lines as mentioned above in the 30" range are mandatory.

Crossover is another mandatory mod to make this suspension worthwhile. Hi-steer is a nice addition, but not required. Start with crossover, and add a driver side arm at a later time if you want.

My .02 on steering is just fork out the $$ for a steering arm. Building one out of plate steel isn't the right way. The TRE will be at a horrible angle sitting at ride height. When the pass side droops it will max out that TRE. Thats why steering arms are machined at an angle.

I actually used my 10b crossover stuff on my 60 when I swapped. Some folks haven't been able to, but even if you can't that kind of stuff is pretty easy to re-sell. If you plan on going to a 60 I wouldn't dump a ton of money into a 10b, but without the steering upgrades you won't be able to use that flexy suspension to its ability so it's a toss up there. Invest and sell when you upgrade, or just add a 60 to the do now list:D

I think a 10b will be ok with those tires if you don't lock it and don't abuse it needlessly. I wheeled with 37's on a 10b for years and only broke a few shafts.

Check out Sky's kit

$375 for the kit isn't a bad price. All you will need to install it is flat top knuckles from a 77ish or earlier Dana 44.

Another option if you can get the draglink made local for a decent price is buy the steering arm for $99 find a Superlift 1104 pitman arm, and get the 1 ton TRE's and piece it together that way.

Like I said just my opinion, but it is steering after all and you are going to be driving it on the street. Getting all new properly built stuff is important for safety reason, and it will drive sooo much nicer.
Click to expand...


I plan on going with the 60. Trying to locate one that isn't to pricey Im gonna do the cross over for now an if need be I'll do the high steer. I'm gonna get the 30" brake lines stated before and I'm gonna do that test before I get shocks so thats gonna be a while the only dana 60s I can find are like 1200$ IMO thats a little high for a bloody axle. So I'm gonna shop around a bit before I go an spend my saving on it.
 
MTBLAZER89 said:
My .02 on steering is just fork out the $$ for a steering arm. Building one out of plate steel isn't the right way. The TRE will be at a horrible angle sitting at ride height. When the pass side droops it will max out that TRE. Thats why steering arms are machined at an angle.
Click to expand...

If you have access to the right machines, it's not that hard to mill an angle on them.
Regarding TRE, isn't it better to use DRE (Draglink ends) instead?
As I understand it, they are designed to handle more angle.

Btw I like your Build-thread.
I'm doing a similar build, but not nearly as good looking.
 
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