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Suspension travel question

M

Mkuhn138

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Carlsbad, CA
I'm building my K5 primarily as a desert prerunner. It is leaf sprung with Deavers on all four corners for now, with plans of links in the future. Bilstein sold me on buying short bodies 17" threaded body shocks (9100) over the 14", so my shocks will not be a limiting factor at all. My question is - since Deaver has told me on the K5 the front driveshaft is the limiting factor - stopping wheel travel around 13" - is there a long travel/slip front shaft that can be used to work around this? What are other options? Move front axle forward? If there is a way to pull 16" I want to do it. Are there any other complications?

Thanks for the replies in advance- Matt
 
Does square tube Allow something that a custom round/splined shaft couldn't? I'm looking at about 70mph top speed
 
Mkuhn138 said:
Does square tube Allow something that a custom round/splined shaft couldn't? I'm looking at about 70mph top speed
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Haha I have good luck with my square shaft, but I would not consider it an option for you at all. Ktmountfront does not have a build thread but I believe he runs a stock shaft with links. It is all about proper suspension geometry.

We threw my shaft on the balancing bench at my local driveshaft shop and it couldn't safely spin over 400rpms. The whole bench it was on was shaking. This is a steel industrial work bench. The guy told me he doesn't let a shaft leave the shop that can't spin 3000rpms as smooth as anything.
 
Richcz28 said:
Haha I have good luck with my square shaft, but I would not consider it an option for you at all. Ktmountfront does not have a build thread but I believe he runs a stock shaft with links. It is all about proper suspension geometry.
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Its easy with links, axle moves back towards the t case under rebound.

In a leaf spring suspension you axle moves away under rebound ( droop)

I would spend some money on a longer travel slip and see if you can get away without using a CV a 1310 cv will limit travel. You can also clearance a 1310 to allow more travel

Another thing you could do is cut and turn knuckles. This will maintain proper caster and allow to to turn up the pinion enough to get more travel out of joints
 
After doing mine. (12" travel ord alcan springs) and an 8" slip yoke shaft.

I got a sweet deal on my setup. But a new one is gonna cost you big time.

If it were me, instead of spending $$& on a shaft your not gonna need anyway with the link setup later on ( they use little travel) just put the shackles on the front of the rig.

I use 6" of slip yoke. But my rear end with shackle flip uses about half an inch. I thought wtf...If the shackles were on the outer end of the frame up front, you would use less as far as I know.



If you build a shaft. Here is how I got measurements and how I knew how much to clearance the cv with custom springs.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=306572
 
You can also get a shaft made that is just slip yoke. Seen it done. But your not going to be running real extreme terrain at those speeds with leafs and those shocks. Save up and do it right the first time with bypasses and air bumps. Then when you decide to link it, you're 1/2 way there.
 
The shocks I have are 2.65" 9100 series threaded body shocks - they are just as good or better than any 2.5 smooth body king, fox, or saw used on many prerunners. My plan is to use them for now, then when I link it throw coils on them and add bypasses as well. It will have bumps from the start. I know it's not going to rip through the desert with leafs, but it will definitely hold its own until it's linked.

As for the shaft, I called HAD today and spoke with Jesse who advised I either send him my existing shaft to have modified for 12" of slip, or I can have a new shaft made with a clearanced CV. I will probably just spring for the new shaft.

Another question - I'vs been scouring the internet looking at photos and it seems that pretty much all of the prerunners I'm seeing run the shock eyes parallel with the axle - I see how this makes good sense on an A-arm setup as the wheel is not moving front to back. But on my truck it seems that even with misalignment spacers that there may be some minor binding, but also with the eyes running perpendicular it may bind in articulation. What is the norm with Solid axle vehicles?
 
I dont know where he got it... but jekquistk5 on here has about 16 frickin inches of slip in his front driveshaft. i dont know much about the travel/suspension part.. but PM him for info on longer slip shaft.


when he broke his cap straps on the front yoke his Dshaft was slid out and touching the ground "in front" of the axle:dunno: and still engaged on the slip splines
 
Deaver has been around a long time and has done a lot of springs so they do know their stuff for sure.

I do disagree that at 13" of travel the drive-shaft is the limiting factor. You can easily have a drive-shaft made to work, however your going to have a tough time with steering even with Crossover starting at about 13" to 14" of vertical travel.

Shock eye alignment depends heavily on each application. There isn't a truly right answer just because it's solid axle or IFS. Do what works.
 
I wasn't dissing the 9100's. adding the bypasses for adjustability is the goal.

And Brandon is right on on the bump steer with leafs.
 
KTM - sorry if I came across that way. I figured maybe you assumed they were 5100s or something. I just read a thread last night where steering became the limiting factor. I guess at this juncture ill have to finish it, then get out and determine where to set my bumps at. I have crossover, but used a bent draglink which in hindsight I think was a mistake. It looks like I may have to fabricate a new crossmember and go to a straight draglink
 
Mkuhn138 said:
I have crossover, but used a bent draglink which in hindsight I think was a mistake. It looks like I may have to fabricate a new crossmember and go to a straight draglink
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Doesn't change anything. Straight or bent doesn't matter.
 
I know it won't change the bump steer factor but I think I will run into some clearance issues ??
 
Mkuhn138 said:
I know it won't change the bump steer factor but I think I will run into some clearance issues ??
Click to expand...

The bent draglink is done to avoid clearance problems. Straight makes it worse from what I've seen.
 
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