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Swap meet score...now aluminum wheel corrosion/painting question

AJMBLAZER

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So I went to the Blessing of the Jeeps in Mesick, MI today with a buddy (has a TJ). Lots of neat stuff including a vendors/swap meet area. Guy from a downstate 4x4 shop was GIVING away left overs. Buddy scored a whole TJ soft top with door panels, door tops, and 90% of the trimmings for $20!:cool1:

So as he's smiling like a fool I notice a set of GM 2500HD aluminum wheels sitting there...no tag on them. Ask what he has into them...says lots of storage space and $80 takes them. I offered $60 cash and he said take them away.:D:D:D
Man, they're a good bit lighter than the 2007 take off 16x6.5 steelies I have now!

Since Big Ugly is camo and will likely be all flat black soon I was thinking I'd strip them and paint them flat black or something. Anyone know how to do this? Anyone have a good "noob with a garage" method/kit/system?


Also, I noticed they had some sort of corrosion on them. Anyone have any idea what could cause this and if I should worry about it? On the face of the wheel it seems like basic corrosion that just took away the shiny finish but on the rougher backsides it actually seemed to eat into the aluminum a bit. Not very deep but in spots on one or two the surface metal flakes off.
 
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I would get them black anodized, but if you want to go with paint I'd media blast them first. that should take any polish, or clear coat off the aluminum. I plan on similar with some H2 rims.

Rene
 
Think the corrosion is any big issue?

Should probably talk to my Rhino Lining guy. He's got a place that does his sand blasting super cheap...
 
Not really, the aluminum is pretty thick. There might be a little pitting visible after blasting, but nothing worth getting excited about.

Rene
 
Cool.


I just can't get over how much lighter these wheels seem...


...also got to figure out a way to tell the wife...





Duplicolor has some wheel paint made specifically for this sort of thing...need to go peak in the paint isle at Menards again.
 
just take em down to your local machine shop and have em throw em in the blast cabinet.. prolly charge ya $50..

if your going to paint em, you gotta zinc em, or the paint will fail...
 
Okay Mr Paint Guy (that's you ryoken), what's a good zinc paint primer to use?
 
well, the best zinc chromate is 2 part, gun style stuff.. but the rattlecans are ok.. any marine supply store will have it... most autobody supply stores will have it, and even some autoparts stores..

Tempo is out of business, but something similar to this...

253283_d.jpg


just put a couple piss-coats on, let dry, hit it with a scuffpad,then prime or you can just go to paint...
 
Dumb question...

...not knowing much about media blasting but I discovered I might be able to gain use of a sand blaster at work...what's the diff?

Ryoken, you have mail.
 
it's all in how aggressive the media is.. glass = fine, sand = course... that being said, sand (especially blasting specifac sand) is available in different grades of courseness... 0, 00, etc.. I know plenty of guys who run sand in their blast cabinets...

you can use a sandblaster, just be aware it cuts more aggressively.. and you may need to run some sandpaper over it to knock the "etch" down a tad.. ESPECIALLY, if your just gonna throw a couple pisscoats of zinc, then paint on.. if you do zinc, then a regular primer, than paint, you'd be fine filling the courser surface..
 
Don't really care about the look. Big Ugly is camo after all. More worried about potentially damaging the wheels or something.

I wasn't even aware we had the blast cabinet until Thursday but from what I can tell we use it to clean up pressed carbide rods and parts. Take the flashing and stuff off before they go into the final stages of hardening and assembly.
 
We're in the "gotta move and can't spend the money and no accumulating more crap" mode...but it was too hard to pass up and I had $200 and some in my pocket...
 
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