Has anyone here done this sort of swap? I need to know what complication I will run into like bell housing, motor mounts ect. My 6.2 is low on compression and therefore not starting to well in the cooler whether. I could use any advice reguarding this matter asap! Thanks!! /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
CK5
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swapping 6.2 for 350
- Thread starter dieselman
- Start date
84_Chevy_K10
Banned
Sounds like step backwards to me.
The 350 will bolt right in though.
The 350 will bolt right in though.
beater_k20
Banned
where ya at? might be interested in taking that tired 6.2 off your hands... /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
It does seem wrong to be going from a diesel to gasser however here in Canada I need my truck to start when it is -30 degrees cel. and sometimes I cannot plug it in. I dont really want to sell the motor right now how ever I have a 350 chev. motor with only 12k miles on it that I will be putting in it next weekend. Will there be any problems using the diesel torque converter or will it not bolt onto the flywheel of the 350. Also power steering brackets will they fit on the 350 from a 6.2 chev diesel. The power steering on the diesel is used to boost the brakes therefore I wanted to use this set up if it will fit the 350 engine. /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
Have you done a compression test or are you assuming it's low on compression? Could be a few bad glowplugs and a weak starter causing your starting problems.
Rene
Rene
four_by_ken
1/2 ton status
Sounds like a good idea to me.
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[ QUOTE ]
It does seem wrong to be going from a diesel to gasser however here in Canada I need my truck to start when it is -30 degrees cel. and sometimes I cannot plug it in. I dont really want to sell the motor right now how ever I have a 350 chev. motor with only 12k miles on it that I will be putting in it next weekend. Will there be any problems using the diesel torque converter or will it not bolt onto the flywheel of the 350. Also power steering brackets will they fit on the 350 from a 6.2 chev diesel. The power steering on the diesel is used to boost the brakes therefore I wanted to use this set up if it will fit the 350 engine. /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
[/ QUOTE ]
I was told to buy a new converter. Don't know if it will actually bolt up or not. I had to customize the power steering brackets. The reservoirs are different. I cut the part that bolts the block off the 6.2 and 350 p/s pumps. I then welded the 350 bracket pieces where they bolted to the block to the brackets that were left on the 6.2 pump.
Motor mounts are the same, but I just bought new ones for good measure.
Bell housing bolts up fine.
The other trick is radiator hoses. The outlet/inlet on the diesel radiator are much bigger than their 350 counter parts. I used something like this:
Their description: [ QUOTE ]
VULCOFLEX FLEXIBLE HOSE Steel spiral reinforcement. Strong & ultra flexible. Will not collapse even on tightest turns.
[/ QUOTE ]
What I found online is made by Gates Rubber it's called Vulco-Flex II radiator hose. This stuff is STOUT. I got mine at the local Carquest. The ones I used have a green stripe which I believe indicates "heavy-duty". The only catch is that they don't have one long enough for the top. I found a regular top hose that was the right diameter for the radiator and also had the correct bends. I cut that where it was best. Went to a local farm supplier and picked up a barbed hose coupler. I could get pictures if you're interested. Wouldn't be able to post them til tomorrow.
It's worth the trouble to keep the diesel radiator. I have no cooling problems. Matter-of-fact, I have to block the radiator off in the winter.
There may be other things I've forgotten. Just ask.
It does seem wrong to be going from a diesel to gasser however here in Canada I need my truck to start when it is -30 degrees cel. and sometimes I cannot plug it in. I dont really want to sell the motor right now how ever I have a 350 chev. motor with only 12k miles on it that I will be putting in it next weekend. Will there be any problems using the diesel torque converter or will it not bolt onto the flywheel of the 350. Also power steering brackets will they fit on the 350 from a 6.2 chev diesel. The power steering on the diesel is used to boost the brakes therefore I wanted to use this set up if it will fit the 350 engine. /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
[/ QUOTE ]
I was told to buy a new converter. Don't know if it will actually bolt up or not. I had to customize the power steering brackets. The reservoirs are different. I cut the part that bolts the block off the 6.2 and 350 p/s pumps. I then welded the 350 bracket pieces where they bolted to the block to the brackets that were left on the 6.2 pump.
Motor mounts are the same, but I just bought new ones for good measure.
Bell housing bolts up fine.
The other trick is radiator hoses. The outlet/inlet on the diesel radiator are much bigger than their 350 counter parts. I used something like this:
Their description: [ QUOTE ]
VULCOFLEX FLEXIBLE HOSE Steel spiral reinforcement. Strong & ultra flexible. Will not collapse even on tightest turns.
[/ QUOTE ]
What I found online is made by Gates Rubber it's called Vulco-Flex II radiator hose. This stuff is STOUT. I got mine at the local Carquest. The ones I used have a green stripe which I believe indicates "heavy-duty". The only catch is that they don't have one long enough for the top. I found a regular top hose that was the right diameter for the radiator and also had the correct bends. I cut that where it was best. Went to a local farm supplier and picked up a barbed hose coupler. I could get pictures if you're interested. Wouldn't be able to post them til tomorrow.
It's worth the trouble to keep the diesel radiator. I have no cooling problems. Matter-of-fact, I have to block the radiator off in the winter.
There may be other things I've forgotten. Just ask.
Thank for the replies, I'm not sure about the converter I can't why it wouldn't work but, I do have the 700r4 that came with the 350 so I could measure it when I pull the motor. That is a good idea with the brackets on the ps pump I probably do the same. I had planned on using the radiator from the diesel for better cooling what about the fan blade can I use the fan out of the diesel with the hydrolic clutch, or do I have to use the one that came with the 350 I believe it is only a 3 blade fan with a hydolic clutch? Thanks for the tips. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
I used the one that was on the 350 I installed. Can't remember if the 6.2 fan would have worked or not.
I am pretty sure you need to use a gas engine converter. If you have the th700R4 that was behind the 350 than I would swap transmissions too. Your 700 is setup to shift at low RPM's because of the diesels power band and will make the 350 feel like a dog. It might be possible to just swap governors between the two transmissions if the diesel tranny is in better shape.
tackleberry65
Newbie
These other guys have a pretty good job covering everything you need to do the swap. I'm right at the end of doing mine now. Wish I would've asked for help like you did. Hindsight's great, isn't it?
There's only a few things I can see that haven't been discussed. One is the power wire for HEI, assuming your new engine has an HEI distributor. Use the long pink wire(about 10 gauge with a snap-in connector on it) that goes to your injection pump as the hot wire that goes to the connector marked BAT or BATT on your small-block's distributor cap. Label ALL your wires before removal of the diesel and DON"T CUT ANYTHING to save time. It'll only cause you more time swapping in the new engine. Keep the parallel + battery cable, too. In case you want to run a dual battery setup with the gas engine.
Everything else these other guy's have told you is right, though. The bellhousing pattern is the same, the converter needs to be changed due to new power band. Some people will tell you the 6.2 has the BOP bolt pattern. Not true.
The motor mounts are interchangeable to the engines but not to the frame. The gas mounts have 4 bolt-holes and the diesel's have 3. If you want to put new mounts in, use the mounts for the diesel. No drilling or welding that way.
You need to figure out whether to run hydraboost or vacuum. Almost everything to make the hydraboost work is available off the shelf. All solid-axle one tons had hydraboost, whether or not they had a diesel, small block, or big block. I'm right at the same point mrk5 was when he pieced together a bracket for his. I'm looking for a duallie with a small block to rob parts off of. If not I may have to get the welder out. I just did the pieced together flex hose thing, too. Looks pretty. lol
Good luck with the swap, man.
There's only a few things I can see that haven't been discussed. One is the power wire for HEI, assuming your new engine has an HEI distributor. Use the long pink wire(about 10 gauge with a snap-in connector on it) that goes to your injection pump as the hot wire that goes to the connector marked BAT or BATT on your small-block's distributor cap. Label ALL your wires before removal of the diesel and DON"T CUT ANYTHING to save time. It'll only cause you more time swapping in the new engine. Keep the parallel + battery cable, too. In case you want to run a dual battery setup with the gas engine.
Everything else these other guy's have told you is right, though. The bellhousing pattern is the same, the converter needs to be changed due to new power band. Some people will tell you the 6.2 has the BOP bolt pattern. Not true.
The motor mounts are interchangeable to the engines but not to the frame. The gas mounts have 4 bolt-holes and the diesel's have 3. If you want to put new mounts in, use the mounts for the diesel. No drilling or welding that way.
You need to figure out whether to run hydraboost or vacuum. Almost everything to make the hydraboost work is available off the shelf. All solid-axle one tons had hydraboost, whether or not they had a diesel, small block, or big block. I'm right at the same point mrk5 was when he pieced together a bracket for his. I'm looking for a duallie with a small block to rob parts off of. If not I may have to get the welder out. I just did the pieced together flex hose thing, too. Looks pretty. lol
Good luck with the swap, man.
I think I saw one at the local u-pull-it last week. If you're interested I can double check, and pull the brackets. It would be pretty cheap. I was pretty certain it was a 350.
My approach with the radiator was to have the shop cut out the upper hose connection and replace it with the same size as a SBC. That enabled my to use Gates no. 21204. For the lower, a local NAPA store allowed me to go behind the counter and look on my own. I came up with NAPA part no. 8539. I had to trim some off both hoses but this allowed me to keep the diesel rad.
Ronnie /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
Ronnie /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
GMCLegacy
1/2 ton status
the fan clutch on a 6.2 will not bolt up to a SBC.
you will need a shorter throttle cable.
you may have to mess with the fuel lines a bit.
you will need a shorter throttle cable.
you may have to mess with the fuel lines a bit.
