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Swapping TBI to another vehicle...

mikey_d05

mikey_d05

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Ok, been seriously considering (like already planning) throwing my junk into a toy truggy in the next year. I'd like to keep the fuel injection.

I'll keep it short and sweet, what do I need to do to reuse the TBI?
 
...from what I gather I have to splice in a sensor or two but otherwise I provide the ECM and a couple of sensors power and it works....or am I oversimplifying this?
 
Pretty much that's it. Keep the harness intact that runs to the ECM from everything. ECM, injectors, fuel pump all need fused power (probably missing one thing) and it will run.
 
dyeager535 said:
Pretty much that's it. Keep the harness intact that runs to the ECM from everything. ECM, injectors, fuel pump all need fused power (probably missing one thing) and it will run.
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Good deal, ya got any tips on how to load and unload an axle-less K5 onto a trailer? :crazy:
 
Forklift?

I had a hard enough time loading a rolling K5 onto a trailer that was a hair narrow around the wheels!

If you've got a floor jack, you MIGHT be able to get it started onto the trailer, then let the jack roll forward as the trailer backs up. Plenty to go wrong in that situation though!

Edit: lemme add a :) to that, I can just see the carnage resulting.
 
dyeager535 said:
If you've got a floor jack, you MIGHT be able to get it started onto the trailer, then let the jack roll forward as the trailer backs up. Plenty to go wrong in that situation though!
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:haha: :haha: :haha:

You sir are a redneck at heart. Hopefully I can get all the stuff I need pulled at a friend's farm, that way I can chain the front to their loader and back the trailer under it.....or I could just do it my garage and torch it to pieces.

End of hijack, anyone else start off with a complete TBI system and swap it to another vehicle?
 
mikey_d05 said:
Good deal, ya got any tips on how to load and unload an axle-less K5 onto a trailer? :crazy:
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Take it apart on the trailer. :doah: Then if your just scraping the body, they should have a tractor or what not to get it off. OR pull the front axle, back trailer under balzer, strap, pull rear axle, winch/come-along onto trailer rest of the way.

As far as the TBI, its seriously like 3-4 wires you have to supply power to and your done. :D
 
I just pulled the complete TBI system off of a '89 sub. The harness is in great shape, but I am not using the entire sub wiring harness in my blazer, only the engine/TBI stuff. From what I can tell now, I will need about 3 power wires, and atleast one ground. My biggest challenge surrently is finding a gas tank - the sub 36 gallon is too long. I would try to retain as many sensors as possible. The VSS, for example will improve slow speed engine control. The EGR, on the other hand helps with cruise conditions, but could be eliminated with minor consequences. I plan on keeping the diagnostic port, and hook up the SES light somehow.

Anyone have a TBI blazer tank the want to get rid of?
 
After Christmas, I plan on completing the swap. I still need to drop the sub tank (this week) to see if the pump/pickup assembly is the same length as the blazer assembly.

I currently have a 31 gal tank on the blazer, but its the regular, unbaffeled type. I've read where some have used the in-tank pump with the old tank. If I do that, I would have to be careful when the gas level gets under 1/2, as starvation could occur at 1/4 tank. Considering why I'm doing the swap...severe off camber drivability, an unbaffeled tank is defeating the purpose...

Do you have a tank you would like to sell, or trade for a 36 gal sub tank?
 
mouse said:
After Christmas, I plan on completing the swap. I still need to drop the sub tank (this week) to see if the pump/pickup assembly is the same length as the blazer assembly.

I currently have a 31 gal tank on the blazer, but its the regular, unbaffeled type. I've read where some have used the in-tank pump with the old tank. If I do that, I would have to be careful when the gas level gets under 1/2, as starvation could occur at 1/4 tank. Considering why I'm doing the swap...severe off camber drivability, an unbaffeled tank is defeating the purpose...

Do you have a tank you would like to sell, or trade for a 36 gal sub tank?
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I'm just thinking about when I'm gonna start stripping my K5. I'll either be running a Toy tank or a fuel cell. I'm not sure if I'll have it apart that soon though. Sorry man. If it helps at all, the local salvage yard only charges $40 for a TBI tank and sending unit/pump.
 
I put a '90 TBI motor into a '78. I bought a Painless loom and a pump and filter from Turbo City. Job done! :D Oh yeah, got a weld in O2 bung from TC too.
 
Cool. We'll see how easily my factory one comes out and go from there.

Didn't know Painless made a complete harness to wire as a stand alone system. Pricey, but pretty cool.
 
It's a really good loom actually. I put all the sensors and relays in the cab and run the loom from there. It's all marked up and labeled and they have good tech support. All the ends are terminated too. if your factory loom is shot go with a Painless for sure.
 
mikey_d05 said:
Cool. We'll see how easily my factory one comes out and go from there.

Didn't know Painless made a complete harness to wire as a stand alone system. Pricey, but pretty cool.
Click to expand...

Exactly, painless harnesses make it fairly simple, but they are very pricey. I checked the price for a harness to swap a vortec into an 84 chevy stepside, it was over $600 just for the harness.

When I swapped the TBI 350 in my 81 CJ7, I just ran power to a few wires, mounted the computer and it was pretty much done. Just make sure you have some good wiring diagrams and it is really pretty simple to do.

As far as the fuel tank issues. I am running a ford external fuel pump with the stock CJ tank. No issues as long as I keep a 1/4 tank or more of fuel in it. Which is really no problem, I have wheeled for about two and a half days on one tank of fuel with no issues.
 
I know it's possible to use the stock harness, but part of my motivation for going to a new project is to start clean. There has been some mickey mousing **** in some parts of my wiring so I don't know whether it'll be in good shape or not.
 
There was a few messed up wires in my harness, but it came from a running truck so I knew it worked. I just pulled all the loom off and checked the wires. If they were bad I solder them and then put shrink wrap on them. Another option would be to find someone parting out a 87-91 truck/suburban/blazer and get the harness out of that. Those are the easiest to mod and clean up. Plus its way cheaper then buying an aftermarket harness.
 
Maybe my post wasn't that clear, but I also recommend using the stock wiring harness, the painless harness, while nice, isn't worth the cost.

What has been cobbled together in your wiring harness Mikey, the only part of the wiring you need is the engine harness. Usually this part of the wiring in vehicles is never touched. Most of the time when people screw with wiring in a vehicle it is the interior wiring (for stereos and crap) and the lighting wiring.
 
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