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Sway bar bushings among other steering components

Interesting. I can see it on my phone, but just looked on my computer and it is like you described. I'll see if I can fix it.

edit: I made them attachments instead of them being inline...maybe that'll work :dunno:
 
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Replace all of the sway bar bushings and go with greasable bushings,polyurethane. ORD has them, if not, check Fleabay. 4 bolts on the frame mounted bushings which I think was 9/16" and the bushings that mount to either side of the axle was 1 1/8 or 1 1/4". If your front bushings are that toast, then I'd bet dollars to donuts that the other bushings and front end stuff is questionable at best. Look everything over closely. Check the frame where the steering box mounts for cracks. ORD sells a weld on steering box frame repair kit if the frame is cracked or just a bolt on kit to strengthen the frame up. Good insurance. For steering components, Rock auto sells Moog and ORD sells beefier stuff if you need it.

Joel
norcal
 
Got started today on the drag link. My dad was helping me out, he’s the original owner of the truck. He said he’d bet none of this has ever been replaced, so probably why it’s in such bad shape and hard as hell to get off.

Got the cotter pins out and castle nuts broken free. Couldn’t get the tie rod ends out of the pitman arm or steering knuckle. Think I’ll need to borrow a tie rod puller from a local store.

To get access to the rear tie rod on the drag link I had to turn the tires pretty hard to the right, otherwise it was right over the axle. Is that ok to take off/reinstall with the tires turned? I figure it would be ok...

I also read somewhere that the drag link should be flat from front to back, mines not because of the add a leaf kit. Should I do something to make it flat or just leave it at an angle?
 
-Since you're going to be replacing the tie rod anyway, one trick is to screw the castle nut on and give it a few whacks with a mallet. Before removing the tie rod ends, I'd recommend breaking loose the adjusting nuts on the tie rod. They like to stick and it's easier to put some leverage on them while still attached.

-There's no problem with removing/installing the drag link with the wheel turned, just make sure the steering wheel isn't moved while you're doing it.

-It doesn't have to be perfectly level. Generally if you have a lift kit with 3 inches or more of lift, you need some sort of correction (drop pitman arm or raised steering arm) to maintain your steering geometry.

Just did sway bar bushings the other day with the ORD kit. I've replaced drag links, tie rod ends, ball joints, steering box (with Redhead Gear). I swapped the steering shaft with one out of an early 2000's GM van to eliminate the rag joint. That eliminated a lot of noises and steering issues. One thing to remember is that if you do ball joints (or are unsure when they were done) is to torque the alignment adjuster to spec and measure the drag on the knuckle to make sure it's within factory parameters. If it's set too tight or too loose, it can really impact your steering. The truck is now lifted on 33s, and while it doesn't steer like a new car, it rolls down the road about as well as you could expect such a vehicle to do.
 
Yeah I tried whacking the ends on the castle nut with a mallet, worked for everyone in the videos I watched when figuring out how to do this. But didn’t budge for me. That’s how it goes haha.

Good tip on breaking those adjustment sleeve nuts loose while it’s still in there. I wouldn’t have thought to do that first.

I read on here the redhead gear is one of the best. Will probably end up doing that eventually. Going to see how much the stuff I’m doing tightens it up first.
 
DRAG LINK NEEDS TO TILT DOWN AND TO REAR . . . Dam caps button ....

Wack the end of each arm were the tappered hole is on the side 90* to the hole with a 3-4 lb hammer . That should let them drop out .
 
GREAT read here on stock drag link workings and angles.

Stock type steering correction. You probably should not use what you think.

There are a few basics to get wrapped around first: 1: when there is a positive arch in the leaf spring, the axle will move back when it moves up. This is just basic leaf geometry, they get longer when they get flatter. 2: Bumpsteer is observed when you hit a 2 wheel bump like a square on...
ck5.com ck5.com
 
My pitman arm puller fits the drag link ends perfectly...tie rod puller is too small..
Screw it on,tighten firmly,give the pitmam arm and steering arm a smack with a heavy hammer and it'll pop free..I've used just the hammer many times with no puller too,a few good whacks and the tapered pin drops free..
Don't whack the nut,it'll likely mushroom and get driven down over the threads,making it near impossible to remove.

I use a brake spoon or large screwdriver in the adjusting sleeve slot after loosening the clamps to unscrew the sleeves or tie rod ends...best to lube then good a few days prior with penetrating oil ..
 
Made some progress. Got both the tie rods on the drag link out with a tie rod puller. Like @diesel4me said, I think really it was a pitman arm puller and maybe a tie rod puller? They all came in the same loaner set and I had to use a different size for each tie rod because of space constraints and the different sizes of the pitman arm & steering knuckle that I was trying to put it over.

After I got those out, I started working on the steering stabilizer. Got out the side that goes through the tie rod, but when I tried to break the other nut free, it instead just spins the bolt/rivet in the bushing. There's no bolt head on top to put a wrench on to keep it still, so no way to secure it. Any ideas on how to get that out?
 
I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "baby flats". Hard to get a good pic because there isn't much space, but the head seems real smooth. There might be a slot for a flathead screwdriver that's super worn down, but hard to tell.

Or do the baby flats you're talking about have to do with the pattern around the edge of the top and there's a socket I can use that fits that? I appreciate y'alls patience with all of my beginner questions on these tasks.
IMG_7698.jpg
 
That appears to be smashed in a press,like a rivet, and isn't supposed to spin..
Some new steering stabilizers come with that pin as part of it ,like that one..

If not you may be able to get one thru Monroe or one of the companies that sell them (Moog,TRW,etc.)steering stabilizer pin for GM 4x4.jpg
 
Another vote for RedHead! I started daily driving mine and really like how well it all works. Now I just need to get it up to the mountains so it doesn't look like a poser rig with the alcans and fox shocks on a pavement pounder. (the snow needs to melt first!)
 
Got everything back together except the sway bar. Waiting for paint to dry there. Glad I'm replacing everything I took out because it was all shot to hell.

Do have a couple questions though: should I use factory torque specs for the steering stabilizer to tie rod connection even though instead of a castle nut with a cotter pin, its just a normal washer/nut on a weird bolt like this? Or use removable loctite or something? And should I use removable loctite on any of the sway bar nuts (to the u bolt plate or frame)?
1615906238878.png

And I greased everything yesterday, including the ball joints I didn't replace. One of the ball joints had grease pop out of the boot on the first pump. :doah: I hope that doesn't mean its boot is ruptured and I'm about to have to do ball joints soon. I'm sure they need to be replaced anyways judging by everything else I took out, but that seems like much more of a job than all of the tie rods, steering stabilizer & sway bar bushings. Might be beyond my current ability.
 
Wouldn't worry too much about the dampener hardware. You can use a spring type lock washer for extra security but the factory never used anything here and they don't fall off.
 
Got everything back together and got it aligned this morning. Replaced sway bar bushings, steering stabilizer, tie rods and drag link/connecting rod/whatever it's called.

Took it for a spin after the alignment and....steering feels pretty much exactly the same lol. It did feel a bit smoother turning, don't know if that makes sense. But just not as much vibration in the wheel on bumps, etc. Kinda hard to explain and I could have just been micro-analyzing because I knew I'd just done stuff to it.

I wasn't expecting much honestly because I think the steering box is what's really making it loose. But I'd bet its a lot safer with all of that stuff being replaced because it was definitely all long past its prime so I feel good that I did it even if the difference isn't very noticeable. Guess I'll be hitting up redhead soon! The gear box install seems doable even for a newb like me (famous last words).
 
The gearbox is only difficult to install due to its weight. Much easier with a 2nd person to help hold it in place. Also a good time to clean up that section of frame to inspect for cracks.

You'll want a new rag joint as well.
 
Clark75K5 said:
The gearbox is only difficult to install due to its weight.
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That's good to know. I'll make sure I have a second set of hands.

Clark75K5 said:
Also a good time to clean up that section of frame to inspect for cracks.

You'll want a new rag joint as well.
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Yup I was planning on cleaning up that part of the frame and painting it. Was also going to order the brace from ORD when I order the gearbox. I can't see any cracks or issues with what's visible when the box is installed, so hoping I'm good to go there. If not, I'll be ordering the repair kit as well. I'll get on the rag joint too. Most convenient time there could be to do it.
 
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