CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Sway bar dissconects

sluggo45acp

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jan 2, 2001
Posts
472
Reaction score
0
Location
Northern fortress, Republic of Texas
Thanks stephen I got my dissconects and steering brace on friday. Got the dissconects installed and went out today, they work great. Thanks again for the service and a great products. I'll get the steering box brace in this week and let ya know how it goes.
Thanks
D. Johnson (Butch)

laugh.gif
IF EVERYTHING WORKS IT AINT A REAL TRUCK
laugh.gif

11.gif
 
did the diconnects improve your daily drivablility too? did they decrease bumpsteer? i'm thinking of getting some and would like some feedback. thanks

78, 350/350/203, 3/4 ton, 4" lift, 35" BFGs
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://bluebeast.coloradok5.com/>http://bluebeast.coloradok5.com/</A>
 
I havent noticed any definate improvement but my swaybar bushings are totally shot. Im putting a new set in this week and will let ya know if it helps. Something else I found out is to be sure a check your articulation with the sway bar disconnected I tore up one of my new BFG M/T yesterday when it buried up in the well. Longer bumpstops are needed.
Happy Wheelin
Butch

laugh.gif
IF EVERYTHING WORKS IT AINT A REAL TRUCK
laugh.gif

11.gif
 
Taking the swaybar loose really changes the tire fit rules! All of a sudden 33's barely work with a 4", and probably take some trimming to really work.
Glad they worked out for you!

Making the world better, one truck at a time.
logo_ordsmall.gif

SW-ORD
 
Stephen, your defently right the rules did change. Im going to take some measurements this week to see if your 4" bumpstops will fix my problem, if not its sawsall time for the fenders.
Thanks again

laugh.gif
IF EVERYTHING WORKS IT AINT A REAL TRUCK
laugh.gif

11.gif
 
i also disconnected the swaybar this afternoon and flexed it up a bit. looks like i need to do a little more trimming! good thing i'm not worried about looks. the bumpsteer was'nt any better though. i read some other post were this guy is running longer springs which makes the shackles angle back more, translating less shock to the frame when you go over bumps. i'll probably just live with it. still going to run disconnects though.

78, 350/350/203, 3/4 ton, 4" lift, 35" BFGs
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://bluebeast.coloradok5.com/>http://bluebeast.coloradok5.com/</A>
 
Blue Beast - the bumpsteer issue is very separate from the swaybar - so I am not surpised it made no difference. Bumpsteer is strictly in the axle-steering arm-draglink-steering box geometry. With a lift you will always get some bumpsteer - unless you use the x-over steering.

Are you using a raised steering arm? Which make? The draglink should be setup just slightly lower at the steering arm than it is at the pitman arm off the box. About a 1/4". With a 4" lift that will net you the least amount of bumpsteer. Also as a side note - contrary to popular belief, adding additional steering stabilizers will not reduce bumpsteer. I know a guy who installed 6, yes 6 stabilizers and still had bumpsteer. No surprise, its not caused by tires/wheels turning, its caused by the movement of the drivers side spring and the changes that causes in the draglink geometry. Since the draglink is so short, it doesn't take much of a defelction to make quite a difference at the weakest point - the steering wheel and your arm.

Hope that helps.
 
i do have a steering arm. not sure of the make-got it used. the drag link does sit slightly lower on the steering arm side as you mentioned. i'm no stranger to bumpsteer. my last k5 had a 6" lift and 2 1/2 degree shims and had wicked bumpsteer and pulled to the right bad on panic stops. damn neer changed lanes if i wasn't ready. i'd like to do cross over steering but i think i'll wait until i get a dana 60 instead of spending the money on my 10 bolt. thanks for the feed back.

78, 350/350/203, 3/4 ton, 4" lift, 35" BFGs
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://bluebeast.coloradok5.com/>http://bluebeast.coloradok5.com/</A>
 
I think I need to write an article on shackle angle, there's no way a longer shackle or spring is going to transmit less force to the frame. In fact, if you're not careful, it can make it worse! Don't worry about the factroy shackle angle too much. As long as it's about vertical or slightly back at ride height, you should be fine. Lift springs are designed around the factory shackle, so they aren't optimized, but still work pretty well.

Making the world better, one truck at a time.
logo_ordsmall.gif

SW-ORD
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom