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Switch AC to 134A?

nsxxtreme

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Does anyone make a 134A AC pump that will bolt into our trucks? Or will a pump from a newer truck work. I have recharged my AC with 134A and it doesn't blow very cold. There is a hole in the engine compartment where the tube goes into the cooling radiator that blows all my cold air out. Looks like they had factory tar in there to seal that gap up. Mine doesn't have any so I have to find something else to plug the gap. That is my first step.

Second I dont think 134A works well with our pumps. Has anyone been successful in switching to 134A?
 
Does anyone make a 134A AC pump that will bolt into our trucks? Or will a pump from a newer truck work. I have recharged my AC with 134A and it doesn't blow very cold. There is a hole in the engine compartment where the tube goes into the cooling radiator that blows all my cold air out. Looks like they had factory tar in there to seal that gap up. Mine doesn't have any so I have to find something else to plug the gap. That is my first step.

Second I dont think 134A works well with our pumps. Has anyone been successful in switching to 134A?

I have converted hundreds of A/C systems on John Deere tractors with the same style of compressor as what the earlier trucks have. No problems at all. I believe you have a problem else where. I also converted my 1988 Suburban with the newer style compressor, with absolutely no problems. R134a is not going to be as cold as R12, but it should still work fine.

Martin
 
First thing that may be needed is a parrelel flow condensor, but it should only be done if the items below can't get it to your satisfaction. The condensor will cool the liquid much better than the round type condensor that our trucks use. But, this should be a last resort as it will require the system to be evacuated again, and will most likely require different hoses to accomodate the new fittings.

Plug the holes with black silicone, it is more than enough to handle the temps of the refrigerant flowing in and out.

How much refrigerant did you put into the system? A general rule of thumb is to use about 80% of the R12 that would have been in the system. So if it called for 1 lb of R12, you would use about .8 lbs of R134. Too much can cause very high pressures, and a poor cooling effect.

You should also replace the orifice with a R134 one for better flow control. Do this only if you have to clear the system, as it will require disassembly of the lines.

Since you mentioned that the holes for the evaporator were open, you will probably want to clean the evaporator with brake clean to get better airflow through it. Openings like those can allow grease and other debris into the evaporator which will reduce the airflow, and can cause less cooling of the air. Do not use carb cleaner, as it will leave a residue and the odor is nearly impossible to get to clear out. Brake cleaner leaves no residue and the odor can usually be cleared by running the blower for a few minutes.

In general on the systems I have done, they may not be as cold, but you don't really notice much of a difference. The better the fan works at pulling air through the condensor, the cooler the air inside will be.
 
It is in the tube that goes into the bottom of the evaporator usually. It may be different on ours, since I haven't done one yet. Usually mounted in the tube running to the condensor.
 
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