Is ther any right or wrong way to switch all the lube fluids in a truck to full synthetics. I am going to do this in my burb. I was told to change them all twice in short succession to make sure that all the old stuff gets flushed out of the coolers and converter, etc. This seems like alot of work and $ but makes sense a little. I have already priced all fluids gasket and such at about $175 for the whole truck. Doing that twice isn't that bad if it is the best way.
CK5
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Switching to synthetics, how to go about it?
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
I wouldn't go to that much trouble. At least for the engine and any fluids that are going to get changed again soon anyway.
I switched all my equipment over to Amsoil several years ago, and I just drained out as much as would drain and refilled it with the good stuff.
My rear end had no drain hole, (genetic defect) so after I pulled the cover, I sopped up the remaining oil that was left in the bottom of the housing.
The 205 transfer case, and the engine, I just left the drain plugs out while I went to lunch.
Then put the plugs back in and filled them with the new.
Did the same thing when I changed my lawn mower and my gas powered water pump and 4 wheeler.
I know I am getting better gas mileage due to the heat reduction, but the difference, for me, is within the margin of error when I check it.
It takes energy to make heat, so the difference in the temperature of the transfer case and rear end after a highway run tells me I am more efficient.
I use it for better wear control and hopefully longer life of the components. Any gas mileage improvement is gravy.
I switched all my equipment over to Amsoil several years ago, and I just drained out as much as would drain and refilled it with the good stuff.
My rear end had no drain hole, (genetic defect) so after I pulled the cover, I sopped up the remaining oil that was left in the bottom of the housing.
The 205 transfer case, and the engine, I just left the drain plugs out while I went to lunch.
Then put the plugs back in and filled them with the new.
Did the same thing when I changed my lawn mower and my gas powered water pump and 4 wheeler.
I know I am getting better gas mileage due to the heat reduction, but the difference, for me, is within the margin of error when I check it.
It takes energy to make heat, so the difference in the temperature of the transfer case and rear end after a highway run tells me I am more efficient.
I use it for better wear control and hopefully longer life of the components. Any gas mileage improvement is gravy.
I just made sure I let the oil drain all the way out, give it some time to seap. Also, on the rear diff, I let it drain, then jacked one side up a little, let that tube drain, then repeat for the other side. I think it's a waste to change the fluid twice in a row.
If you do it anyway, don't fill it all the way, just put 3 - 4 quarts in and let it idle and warm up. Obviously if you lose oil pressure shut it off immediately but you could probably idle with even less than that, not much flow at low RPM, plenty of time to drain back.
If you do it anyway, don't fill it all the way, just put 3 - 4 quarts in and let it idle and warm up. Obviously if you lose oil pressure shut it off immediately but you could probably idle with even less than that, not much flow at low RPM, plenty of time to drain back.
The trannys the one I'm worried about most. With the converter, cooler, and lines. I'd like to do it twice on that just to get all the old out I can. Happens to be the hardest one to do
. I'm putting a drain plug in while the pans out so the second should be easier. The engine also has the cooler and lines. Do those drain all the way too. They look like they'd hold a 1/2 quart or so on thier own. The diffs and T/C I was only gonna do once.
. I'm putting a drain plug in while the pans out so the second should be easier. The engine also has the cooler and lines. Do those drain all the way too. They look like they'd hold a 1/2 quart or so on thier own. The diffs and T/C I was only gonna do once.
The trannys the one I'm worried about most. With the converter, cooler, and lines. I'd like to do it twice on that just to get all the old out I can. Happens to be the hardest one to do
For the tranny get a 5 gallon bucket, and have about 10 - 12 quarts of fluid sitting there with the caps already off. Have a funnel in the fill tube.
Disconnect the cooler "return" line from the cooler, and place a rubber hose or snap a metal line into the cooler and direct the line into the bucket.
Then start the vehicle in park and let it idle. Fluid will start pouring into the bucket. Immediately start pouring the new fluid into the fill tube. Continue this until either
1 - the fluid starts to come out clean
2 - the fluid starts to get air coming out with it. (shut if off right away, don't run the pump completely dry).
If you do it right you should of gotten MANY quarts through there, preferably at least 8 or 10 minimum. The fluid will slowly get cleaner the more quarts to put through it.
I do this in conjuction with also dropping the pan and changing the fluid and filter. I have done it in both orders, and don't really think it matters which one you do first. I usually do this flush first though. Then it's easier to have the correct fluid level when you are all done.
I think this is much better than even changing the fluid in the pan twice. Because the converter holds quite a bit of fluid. If you just change the pan fluid, it's only about half the fluid. Every time you change the fluid, you still have half the old fluid in there. So change it twice, still have about 1/4 of the old fluid.
Flush it all out that way and then change the fluid and filter, and you have all new fluid.
Yep, after i posted, I noticed the cooler part.
The automatic tranny does not have a good way to get all the oil out. Not only the lines and cooler, but also the torque converter.
They used to put drain plugs on the TC, but I have not seen one in years.
The engine cooler and lines you might be able to blow clear with compressed air, but that will cause a longer than normal delay to build up the oil pressure.
On it, you might just replace the oil, and then do a slightly earlier than normal oil and filter change.
The automatic tranny does not have a good way to get all the oil out. Not only the lines and cooler, but also the torque converter.
They used to put drain plugs on the TC, but I have not seen one in years.
The engine cooler and lines you might be able to blow clear with compressed air, but that will cause a longer than normal delay to build up the oil pressure.
On it, you might just replace the oil, and then do a slightly earlier than normal oil and filter change.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
No real benefit to using synthetic in a trans except for heat stability, so if you plan to tow alot, that's about the only gain you'll get from that.
Oil, I just did this transition in mine and parents vehicles, parents vehicles had well over 100k miles on them. I just drained all old oil out, new filter, new synthetic oil. The engine is not going to explode with a little bit of remaining conv oil in it, and I could have sworn I read somewhere anyways, that federal standards mandate that all the oils be compatible with each other anyways.
Change to the synthetic, run it a few thousand miles, change it out, refill with more synthetic and then run the normal interval for that oil. So far we have been running about 6000 miles and the oil just barely starts to look worn. Not even as dirty as conventional usually gets after about 2000 miles. But you can tell by the way the synthetic moves and feels on the dipstick that it's starting to wear down.
I thought I read somewhere else too that all synthetic oil was, is basically an ultra-refined base anyways, with some additives to aid in thermal stability. Something about different classes of oil standard or something, been awhile since I read up on the stuff.
Oil, I just did this transition in mine and parents vehicles, parents vehicles had well over 100k miles on them. I just drained all old oil out, new filter, new synthetic oil. The engine is not going to explode with a little bit of remaining conv oil in it, and I could have sworn I read somewhere anyways, that federal standards mandate that all the oils be compatible with each other anyways.
Change to the synthetic, run it a few thousand miles, change it out, refill with more synthetic and then run the normal interval for that oil. So far we have been running about 6000 miles and the oil just barely starts to look worn. Not even as dirty as conventional usually gets after about 2000 miles. But you can tell by the way the synthetic moves and feels on the dipstick that it's starting to wear down.
I thought I read somewhere else too that all synthetic oil was, is basically an ultra-refined base anyways, with some additives to aid in thermal stability. Something about different classes of oil standard or something, been awhile since I read up on the stuff.
thanks guys I'm going to do the flush thing on the tranny and a 500 mile oil change. (it'll take me 2 months to get that on my burb). The synthetic in the tranny thing is a wonder of mine too. I may do regular in it I dont know. I'm flushing it anyway, Thats a good trick and I'm glad I learned it
DizturbedOne
1/2 ton status
Good advice, I try to explain this to people all the time and they look at me crazy.
This is all a $200 transmission flush is at a shop. They have a machine that holds the new/old fluid and has the hoses already on it, to make it quicker, easier, and cleaner for them. It is basically just two tanks with a pump between them so you don't have to start the vehicle to flush it.
I'd rather start it and flush it with my components (converter/pump) moving anyways
