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Synthetic Oil

Doc Feel Good

Doc Feel Good

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Anyone use 'Mystic' synthetic diesel oil 15-50.

I am thinking about going to synthetic from the traditional oil.

So what are u guys using and your opnions...

thx
 
Doc Feel Good said:
Anyone use 'Mystic' synthetic diesel oil 15-50.

I am thinking about going to synthetic from the traditional oil.

So what are u guys using and your opnions...

thx
Click to expand...

I use synthetic on all my engines, and was using it on my big rig, until I realized I was leaking lots so I switched to regular and now I barely leak any.
The other thing to look for is old versus new.
Diesel engines used to get a lot of soot in the oil, and you needed to change the oil more often because of that. Newer engines don't have that problem much.
On my perkins, I need to change the oil every 3-5000 miles because it will be too contaminated. And it uses 22quarts :eek1: so I only use regular.
On the synthetic on my big rig I was using it for 50000miles that is 50k. so it was worth it for the price until it started leaking too much.
Are you talking about your Ford?
I would use synthetic.
 
The Blazer has enough slight leaks and "damp" spots that I wouldn't put synthetic in it now. Had the misfortune in the past of switching over to synthetic and then having MORE leaks due to the nature of synthetic.

Rebuild the engine or put a new one in there and I might switch to synthetic.
 
If it's an engine with a lot of miles or hours on it and has always had regular oil, stick with that. If its pretty new and/or a fresh rebuild then run the synthetic. Both my trucks are 100% synthetic, dodge from about 18k and the chevy as a I replace/rebuild anything that uses oil.
 
id say it depends on the engine.. ive always had good luck with synthetic and leaks.. my 85 m1008 has 86k and i run royal purple in it with NO leaks at all! and my Cummins has 177K with amsoil with no leaks either so i would say give it a shot u can be lucky. try tightening you oil pan and valve cover bolts too if it does leak.
 
I run Amsoil with dual remote filtration. Change the filters every 25K and the oil every 100K need it or not.
On my stinker (diesel) I changed the filters every 15K miles.
 
Iceman..yes its on the Furd...

I need to fix a few leaks, but need to change the oil, since the PO didnt maintain the truck to my standards.

I can get a 2 gal of synth for 25.. and the truck uses 15qt so fun..50 for oil plus 20 for a filter...

My vette wasnt that much..lol (and it only used syth)

I will prob just try the syth and see how many leaks I spring.

If its leaking, then it needs fixed....just time and money right?


did you guys notice any improvements with the syth, as in mileage, performance... was the trucks quiter ... trying to justify this...lol


thx for the comments
 
I would recommend you not use a w50 in your engine. synthetic or not. Engines with HEUI injection are VERY sensitive to your choices of engine oil, quality and cleanliness. There is really no need to go over a standard 15w-40. find out exactly what the SAE rating is of that oil as well. either way I wouldn't use it. don't get hung up on the fact that the label says synthetic. Its likely a semi synthetic group III, which uses dino oil base stock still. nothing special. and if its cheap to buy.......its cheap oil. The high end synthetics that are true synthetic base stocks, are PAO IV oils. Like Mobil1, Amsoil, Royal Purple, theres also group IV sythetics in most of Big Oil offerings, but you have to know what your looking for.
 
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DEMON44 said:
I would recommend you not use a w50 in your engine. synthetic or not. Engines with HEUI injection are VERY sensitive to your choices of engine oil, quality and cleanliness. There is really no need to go over a standard 15w-40. find out exactly what the SAE rating is of that oil as well. either way I wouldn't use it. don't get hung up on the fact that the label says synthetic. Its likely a semi synthetic group III, which uses dino oil base stock still. nothing special. and if its cheap to buy.......its cheap oil. The high end synthetics that are true synthetic base stocks, are PAO IV oils. Like Mobil1, Amsoil, Royal Purple, theres also group IV sythetics in most of Big Oil offerings, but you have to know what your looking for.
Click to expand...

15W40 and 15W50 are the same thickness, the 50 is rated at higher temps that is all.
the first number is the viscosity which here is the same.:whistle:
 
No, multi weight oils are just that, multi viscosity. thats the point of the 2 numbers. the first is the viscosity at ambient temperature. the second is the viscosity at operating temperature. the higher operating temperature range is by virtue of being a thicker viscosity AT operating temperature.

That is the entire point here. HEUI injection uses engine oil to create injection pressure. So the entire injection system is hyper sensitive to engine oil, especially the cleanliness of the oil and the weight. more than half of the injection issues with HUEI injection stem directly from engine oil and lack of its maintenance. You don't have to believe me, I'm not going to argue with you about it. This is my recommendation based on my experience.

Also you'll want to check out the API rating, see if its sufficient for your engine.
 
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"synthetic oil" is just a marketing term..it's the same as saying 'enriched bread". google the term "castrol lawsuit" and you can read up on how castrol and mobil one slugged it out in court over the use of the word.

bottom line is that any oil undergoing any blending or processing can be called synthetic.

it's all processed hydrocarbons, nothing special, just go to wallyworld, buy the right weight of whatever is on sale, and dump it at the specified interval.
 
true. only in north america are group III oils allowed to be marketed as synthetic. sucks. but PAO group IV base stocks are made entirely in a lab. and they are better oils.
 
DEMON44 said:
PAO group IV base stocks are made entirely in a lab. and they are better oils.
Click to expand...

PAO's are still a petroleum hydrocarbon, they are just different petroleum hydrocarbons than what conventional oil is made from.

Synthetic means "synthesized", not "made from something other than what comes out of the ground"..in this case, the molecules are refined and re - refined ( synthesized) until they are all uniform size.. that's where synthetics are good - the uniform size enables the oils to pump faster and flow easier in extreme conditions...nowadays though, group II and three oils can have the same level of refinement, and not be PAO based.

problem with the PAO base is that it does attack seals over time, causing leaks, and the additives don't mix well with them..they drop out of suspension due to thermal breakdown...so the oil companies went to a PAO / ester blend ( think RP's "synerlec" technology) so the seal degradation problem isn't so prevalent..esters are nice to seals, but like moisture.

the other thing is that PAO is an expensive basestock, so in a "true PAO oil" nowadays, you tend to see a little PAO, a lot of ester, and a lot of solvents and filler..filler being the liquidized plastic used to enable the oil's viscosity to swing from a 5W to a 30W.

TIP: The closer together the numbers are ( 10w30 compared to 5w40 ) the less plastics are in the oil..the viscosity doesn't need to move that much.

bottom line oil companies started selling group II & III oils for a reason, and that was to control costs while delivering a useful product...the EPA tells the oil companies how to make their oil, then it's up to the marketing departments to put a happy face on it and create buzzwords so we buy it..

all of the antiwear additives have been reduced anyway, so if you are going to do extended drain intervals, have the oil analyzed, and if you are into it, study the tech sheets and MSDS sheets that are available from the company..very enlightening.

I stand by my statement..buy what your budget allows, and dump it at the drain interval, and if are gonna go further than that, have it analyzed. don't trust the label on the bottle.
 
I never said polyalphaolefins were not hydrocarbons. I said they do not come from dinosaur juice. they take HC's and brew the **** up in the lab.
 
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